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Posts for: patrick28
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Jan 20, 2012 16:30:52   #
Mark Bski wrote:
Is anyone hands on familiar with the Nikkor 70-300mm f/4-5.6G lens? For $170.00 on Amazon it seems like a good deal, but would one be better off with the VR version or the 50-300mm Nikkor at $400?

Opinions please....


I'm almost always on a tripod with the 70-300 so the VR feature does not come into play. At $170 we got a steal!
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Jan 15, 2012 13:48:44   #
MT Shooter wrote:
Mark Bski wrote:
MT Shooter wrote:
Epson Perfection V600 PHOTO.
Under $200 and better results than an digital camera can give you. Just be sure to clean those old slides and negs before scanning.


Thanks for the tip, MT.


Glad to help when I can. If you check Epsons website they often have some great deals on refurbished units too. Often a V330 unit shows up for under $100 there, its great for your application too.


Yeah, I got one about three weeks ago for $59!
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Jan 15, 2012 13:46:49   #
iresq wrote:
If you only changed the ISO setting, how did you control the exposure?

Interesting though. The noise at 400 is unbelievable (in a bad way).


You're right! I kept the EV constant by halving the T each time I doubled the ISO. (Trouble between the headsets in explaining what I was doing.)

Thanks for the heads-up!
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Jan 15, 2012 13:42:24   #
tainkc wrote:
In the 2nd and 3rd photos, why did you feel compelled to mess with the 100 and 200 ISO's?


Because I had not yet examined the results under the loupe. Easier to ignore data that I don't need than to go back to create data that I do need. So, while I was in the process and rolling right along, I went from extreme to extreme.

Hopefully you're right. Noise will not be a consideration at ISO 100 or 200. But I don't know that yet.

Thanks for the prod.
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Jan 14, 2012 17:37:52   #
Comment: It is customary to run the contrast up a bit when doing much noise reduction. I did not do that here, hence the loss of contrast in the processed samples.
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Jan 14, 2012 17:31:37   #
Following is an example of how the noise factor for a Panasonic Lumix FZ150 bridge camera varies with ISO settings. I merged six bands of shots taken of the same area while varying only the ISO. The ISO ranged from 100 to 3200 across the six shots. Aperture and shutter speed were held constant. Only the ISO was doubled for each shot.

I was not shocked at the noise handling of the camera but was pleasantly surprised at how that noise could be tamed in ACR6.5 and CS5.

The first sample is just as the images came out of the camera. No processing, only converting the images from RAW to JPG and merging them into a single banded 1800x800 image.

The Second sample is the same image after being processed in Adobe ACR 6.5. I used only the noise factor control, no other features. I ran the noise slider up from 0 to 66 and the Luminance Detail to about 45. No color noise treatment.

The Third sample is the banded image run through both ACR and PS CS5.
The noise filter and blur tool (45%) were employed across the entire image.

I believe that, for casual family album work with 4x6 prints, I can get away with ISO 3200. At room light, I can see little difference between ISO 200 and ISO 1600 in a 4x6 print in the third print. That represents a lot of my travel photos and I would normally use the FZ150 only for travel. Well, perhaps also for casual shooting at home in lieu of the Nikon D700.

It doesn't approach the D700's noise handling but, then again it doesn't have the D700's three f2.8 zoom lenses plus a 105mm macro tipping the scales at what at times feels like 87 pounds in a B4 bag.

And the D700 is comparatively shortsighted at 200mm whereas the FZ150 reaches all the way from 18mm to 600mm and has a VR that permits hand holding at 600mm!

For me, the FZ150 is well worth the money ($419). I also recommend or and other bridge cameras for consideration by any P&S shooters who might be thinking of moving up to a DSL.

To my knowledge, Nikon, Canon, Panasonic Fuji and Sony are today's leaders and competitors in the bridge camera field. I was surprised at how Fuji has come up in the field since I last followed developments more closely.

Fell free to do whatever to or with the photos.

RAW to JPG, no PP


ACR6.5, Noise slider only


ACR and CS5 noise filter, blur tool

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Jan 14, 2012 11:37:30   #
MARCHROMATIC wrote:
MARCROMATIC Here Hi you all . I'm relatively new to this great web site! I love learning about photography and veiwing all your photos. I have a panasonic lumix FZ28 does anyone have this or a similar camera that can give me some tips on it? Ive read the book and have been using it aprx. 2 years. Like some other new comers I dont know how to post a photo. Has anyone herd of photo impact 12 ? Is this a good editing program? I would appreciate any feedback.


The books that accompany Panasonic cameras are mere tokens of a user's guide. Go to the Panasonic site>Support for your camera and download the Operator's Manual (not the User's Manual). They are in .pdf format and can be downloaded to your handheld devices, such as Kindle, iPad or iPhone.


I spend a session each morning in bed with my FZ150 and a netbook with the 150's manual. Time well invested!
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Jan 14, 2012 11:21:30   #
Nikonian72 wrote:
If you are interested in macro-photography, here are some UHH FAQ pages for you:

http://www.uglyhedgehog.com/user_page.jsp?upnum=108

http://www.uglyhedgehog.com/user_page.jsp?upnum=239

http://www.uglyhedgehog.com/user_page.jsp?upnum=247


Hey, listen! If you're interested in macro photography, do yourself a great favor and go to Nickonian72's links that appear below all his posts.

Prepare to be amazed!
Such images have not been viewed since the Transfiguration.
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Jan 14, 2012 11:09:53   #
Nikonian72 wrote:
I use Picasa 3 for viewing & editing images. I have read that a plug-in for Picasa is available to read EXIF info, as discussed here: http://www.uglyhedgehog.com/t-2360-1.html

Where do I find an EXIF display program, either stand-alone or plug-in to Picasa 3?

Also, I just purchased, but have not used, PS Elements 10.


Congratulations on PS10, Douglass!
If you want a quick start, you can skip the first chapter on Organizer and simply load your images from their present folders. The Organizer will serve you well if you have not been using LR or something else to organize your horde.

ACR6.5 is worth price of admission all alone.

Good luck and much excitement with your edits!
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Jan 13, 2012 13:04:51   #
SDav612 wrote:
The moon is hard to shoot because it is such a bright light. If you can shoot before it is pitch black, it is better. I set my camera like this, ISO - 100, white balance either K-4000, daylight, or tungsten, manual settings - speed 125, F/11, focus infinity or just shy of.


Amen.
Add spot metering if there is foreground. If you're not going to post process and your camera provides the feature, boost contrast or 'vivid' setting.
'Clarity' is good in Adobe RAW as it increases the contrast only of the mid tones.
It is surprisingly bright. Work your histogram until it's exactly what you want. You got lots of time. Moon's not going anywhere for a while.
***************

You're first photo is one I would be proud of.
(But, then again, people used to say that I was gullible --
and I believed 'em.)
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Jan 13, 2012 12:51:14   #
If the post concerns the photographic process, technique or equipment -- as opposed to the art, emotion or content -- I would like to see the technical data we're talking about. At a minimum, camera, lens, S, A, ISO and focal length.

Yes, I know it's in the EXIF but many of our members are not familiar with that information or how to access it.

I get exasperated at posts such as, "I came across this phenomenal feature while out walking this morning." + photo.

"I can't believe how effective this technique (feature, edit, sw, trick,) is."

OK, we agree. Now SHARE IT!
That's what this forum is all about.
Enough with the strokes.
"Just the facts, Ma'm!"
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Jan 13, 2012 12:27:58   #
Cadugand wrote:
MissStephie wrote:
Exactly! I have the same problem with FaceBook too. I find a pic on my iPad, email it 2 myself, download it 2 the phone & then upload to UHH- if I'm too lazy 2 get on the computer, lol. :)


You can send directly from your iPhone/iPad to Facebook by using your "secret" Facebook post email address. Try this link:
http://email.about.com/od/Facebook-Messages-Tips/qt/How-To-Find-And-Reset-Your-Secret-Facebook-Upload-Email-Address.htm

I agree, it would be great if this forum had this feature.
quote=MissStephie Exactly! I have the same proble... (show quote)


Yes, frustrating!
There is no way to upload an avatar from iPad2.
To upload a photo to any of the forums (fora?) I have to go to a second account on my desktop.
iPad needs an app to permit browse/select/upload.
OS5 should be ashamed to venture into the open without this feature.
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Jan 12, 2012 13:38:33   #
tinosa wrote:
My first bridge camera was the Panasonic FZ 15. That was 7 years ago. It was ahead of it's time.
A high quality Leica 12x zoom was F2.8 through the ENTIRE zoom range, an Optical Image Stabilizer, 4 frames/second in burst mode
With a Nikon 6T attachment I got excellent macro shots like this one.
I still use it regularly, it is my glove compartment camera.


WOW! How did you get a Nikon 6T to work on the FZ15?

I have not seen a bridge camera that offers f2.8 constant throughout the zoom range. Does it exist?

Another feature I liked about the Nikon P7000 (before it was stolen) was its BS mode, wherein it took three shots in bust mode and kept only the best of the three. Great for low light shots.

Great comments and enthusiasm by all commentators!
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Jan 11, 2012 07:04:10   #
MWAC wrote:
Please excuse the Facebook/cell phone quality of this image but I wanted to share, I find it kinda funny.


Could I have permission to share this bit of precocious preciousness with my clan?
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Jan 11, 2012 06:56:48   #
dc-images wrote:
Practice makes perfect....right? So I got bored today. And had a photo shoot with my daughters barbie dolls...how'd I do.


What??!!! That skinny little bookmark?
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