Cookie, if you can get the 100-400 II that is the way to go...

Best,
Todd Ferguson

Yoi!!!

I agree Jerry. I don't think renting is a good idea if you are just wanting to try before you buy unless it is an extremely expensive lens perhaps. To me renting may make sense if you need a piece of equipment for a job that you are getting paid for and can do the job without.

Best,
Todd Ferguson

And 1/100 minimum if using a lens 85mm or less...unless you are seeking some special effect...

I agree that where you are shooting from can make the difference in the choice. The D500 is a great crop sensor DSLR but it is not a D5 or a 1Dx MK II in my view and is not pried like one either. Google Mark Rebilas photography and see what a pro is capable of with a top notch DSLR and lenses...

Best,
Todd Ferguson

B&H has Canon lens and camera rebates now...other brands might have them already too...

Best,
Todd Ferguson

Most sports shooters that I know shoot D5, 1DX or 5D3 or 5D4 and maybe now D850 not Crop Sensors...

Best,
Todd Ferguson

I think this chart demonstrates that the FF cameras are still maintain a decent lead in high ISO performance in the same generations, roughly anyway. Of course the march of sensor improvement is lifting all boats...

Best,
Todd Ferguson

ETTR is not something that I would bother doing at other than a low native ISO. Why shoot to the right at a higher ISO and add noise possibly only to then lower the exposure in PP. That would make no sense to me...increasing exposure via higher ISO in shooting to lower it in PP. Doesn't make sense. I will agree that better cameras and metering algorithms are improving the results and make the technique less important than in the past perhaps. But it is still good to know and understand as part of my potential toolkit. And if you don't shoot in RAW...well... And we know that many people are satisfied to shoot JPEG only.

Best,
Todd Ferguson

My camera is set up to display the controls on the rear screen as default when shooting. Yes if I am shooting Av, I can roll the large rear dial to change the EC up or down. True the viewfinder display only goes to 3 because those items in the viewfinder are designed into the viewfinder display, not pixels that can be changed like the rear display can be. If I go beyond 3 Stops I get an arrow to indicate that I am off scale in the EC viewfinder display...just like for the exposure or flash level displays on the right side of my viewfinder. So, if I hit the EC button on the top of the camera it displays the second image screen on my rear display which goes to 5. The viewfinder display remains at 3 plus the arrowhead as that is hard built into the viewfinder.

Even when shooting Av and using the rear dial to change the EC I can see when I get to 3 or -3 in the viewfinder. I know that I have my camera set to 1/3 stops so I know that when I get to 3 or -3 I can count clicks on the dial to know how many of the remaining 2 stops, 6 clicks, I am going. That can be done without taking my eye from the eyepiece. Of course we have not even touched on the ability to change the functions of the buttons and dials. That is an area where my camera offers many many options also. And there is also the Quick Control, QC, button too.... Lots of ways to control and change the camera controls and settings. It gets down to how you like to use them and set them. But the fact remains that my Canon has 5 stops of EC up or down.

Best,
Todd Ferguson

Yes, I buy a lot of my stuff from B&H, no tax and 2 day delivery to Harrisburg, NC. I do buy some smaller items locally but the local shop just doesn't have a lot that I am interested in. Yes, I paid in the $48 range for it from B&H. The only error I ever encountered on their website was this item as it lists the height as 52" and it is actually 42". I even sent B&H a message to check it and correct it, but never checked to see if they did.

I later added a Matthews variable extension that fits the Background Stand pin and gets it to over 6 feet in height with the umbrella mount added. That extension was 30 some dollars. And it gives me another full height light stand if I want to use it that way. Very versatile combo. It all takes up little space and is light for the weight it will support, 22 pounds according to Matthews. I also like the background stand because you can get flash really low easily if you want to and the legs are low and out of the way. I lay a camera bag on the leg to add some stabilizing weight if needed outdoors. This is my goto Speedlite stand for Drag racing shooting.

I have tried several different umbrella stands and some are just not very well made. I have gone with the Phottix brand ones that are about $30. They are strong, lock well and I have used a 7' parabolic umbrella with one on a C stand...and sandbagged of course. I just don't want a Speedlite worth a few hundred dollars hitting the floor or ground if I can help it. Good stands and supports are important to safeguard your equipment I believe.

Best,
Todd Ferguson

Canon provides software with their camera that can be used to control your camera tethered to your laptop. You can have pretty much full control over the settings of the camera. It is free from Canon and usually included with your camera or can be downloaded from the Canon website. You can also shoot Lightroom tethered to your camera. I also have a CamRanger which can do all that plus other stuff and can do it wirelessly. I am sure there are other programs and brands that can do this all too...

Best,
Todd Ferguson

I saw an interesting YouTube video last week talking about ND filters by IIRC Tony Northrop. He showed a technique where instead of using a ND filter he took like 10 shots at IIRC normal exposure and merged them together in Photoshop to a final image. I believe he was shooting at ISO 100 and he said using the 10 shots he ended up with a better result than using the ND filter and an equivalent ISO of like 10. I will have to look for it again, but has anyone ever tried to do that. or can you explain the theory behind that method for me.

Best,
Todd Ferguson

Yes Sir...that is what I would put under the effect you are after part of the equation. I do shoot panned shots of trains and race cars sometimes. That takes some real practice to get good shots of race cars in my experience. Lots of near misses and large misses for each good shot with race cars.

Best,
Todd Ferguson

Same rules as I laid out earlier. If you don't stop motion, whether in the subject or in the camera/tripod itself I my opinion you will end up with an entirely out of focus Shot that is virtually worthless... it is all about finding the best, or at least acceptable, balance of shutter speed, aperture, Light and ISO that can get the shot you desire.

Best,
Todd Ferguson