RickL Loc: Vail, Az

I usually shoot aperature or shutter. In shooting manual what do you use to set up your dslr. In the film days we used a gray card and light meter

Tinkwmobile

I have a built in light meter, that's a start. I generally set aperture first, depending on how I want the picture to look - depth of field, then speed at which point I check light meter. I keep the ISO set at 100. I have a grey cloth to check WB; never used. If I have time I take test shot(s) and adjust as required.

rmalarz Loc: Tempe, Arizona

Rick, I'm not completely sure I understand your question. I shoot completely manual about 98% of the time. The foremost consideration is shutter speed. That is based on handheld or tripod. Handheld, the usual rule of thumb. The depth of field is the primary consideration. What do I want as an f-stop. What will that f-stop require as a shutter speed? It then becomes a balance or trade-off as to which is more important. A good steady camera is always the important aspect. So, at that point, if I can't get the depth of field I want, I'll use an appropriate higher ISO. If using a tripod, then factors of wind come into play. The shutter speed is determined by that factor and again balancing the depth of field desired, etc. It's a system engineering exercise.

As for metering, I spot meter on the brightest part of the scene. Then increase the exposure an appropriate amount, within my camera's capabilities, to render that portion of the scene the appropriate brightness in the final image. Most of my images, SOOC, look horribly overexposed. However, they are within the limits of the camera and work quite nicely. As a result of this, I rarely chimp. Here's an example of an ideal exposure SOOC.
http://static.uglyhedgehog.com/upload/2015/10/11/1444601010698-d700_2015091301_012_sooc.jpg
--Bob

ricardo7 Loc: Washington, DC - Santiago, Chile

When I'm shooting landscapes I use a tripod. I set my ISO to 100 and my f-stop to f16.
(I have tested my IQ at all apertures and found f16 was sharper in the corners than f22).
I don't really care what the shutter speed is unless it is windy in which case I'm probably
not taking pictures.

Bobspez Loc: Southern NJ, USA

Take a few test shots to check exposure. I don't worry about white balance, that can be tweaked in post processing.

RickL Loc: Vail, Az

Bob, your answer was exactly what I am looking for. My thought was to set my depth of field and then use my spot meter to set shutter with a test of IOS of 200. I shoot mostly action nature so it will take some practice on my part

rmalarz Loc: Tempe, Arizona

Glad I could help, Rick. As long as you practice wisely, you should do ok. You'll find that "just right" combination and have it mastered in no time.
--Bob

RickL Loc: Vail, Az

What camera and lens do you use?

ricardo7 Loc: Washington, DC - Santiago, Chile

Generally, a Canon 5D MkII with a 24-105 L lens.

RickL Loc: Vail, Az

I use a D810 with a 35-70 mmm for landscape, although I also used at the Albuquerque balloon Fiesta along with a 70-300 mm

RickL Loc: Vail, Az

I have a Luna Pro by Gossen that is a great light meter. I used it with great success with 21/4 format Rollieflex

RickL Loc: Vail, Az

Don’t you use a view film camera?

jerryc41 Loc: Catskill Mts of NY

Use the camera's built-in light meter. Set aperture or shutter and then adjust the other one to get good exposure - according to your camera's meter.

Szalajj Loc: Salem, NH

IMHO, this shot is over exposed, and the white balance has produced an odd yellow/green hue. There is little to no definition in the dirt in the foreground. You can never get the details back when you over expose.

foathog Loc: Greensboro, NC

Isn't that called ETTR??? Exposing To The right? Why don't you show us how the final edited shot looks along with that one???? you are probably confusing newbies