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Nov 4, 2017 16:04:45   #
I love the Nikon precision numbers down to a single digit in 40,000. I have not found my speed lights to be that consistent...maybe within a couple hundred at lowest settings...

Best,
Todd Ferguson
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Nov 4, 2017 14:47:48   #
Some people can drive a race car and some struggle with a bicycle. Each has to determine what is right for them.
I think some people would be better off starting in manual, but it also depends if they want to learn and understand photography or not.
That is why most people use cell phones and tell each other that their photos online are "Great".
Some people can start at a level others may never reach or care to reach.
I think a lot of people by a starter kit because it is relatively inexpensive, their main reason and probably because they may lack knowledge otherwise.

Best,
Todd Ferguson
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Nov 4, 2017 13:03:29   #
Good point Don as I encounter this if I go to the local camera store here in Charlotte. They have a limited selection and some of the people have their bias and the store itself may even be biased as to what they make more money on. That said I do spend some money there and they are trying to genuinely help people I believe. But the world of photography is so massive that no store can carry everything, not even B&H or Adorama.

My feeling is there are really great gimbals at high prices new, very nice ones at prices and features a bit lower and mid to lower end ones with minimal features. If you buy a $250 gimbal you are probably not going to put $10-$15K worth of gear on it. At least I hope not. If you are putting mid range gear on it you might be fine, provided it has the features you need. Of course if you have never seen or experienced those features then you might never miss them.

It reminds me od something I was told early on it my woodworking hobby. There is no point in putting a $125 saw blade on a $200 contractors saw. A $2000 cabinet saw yes, definitely. I find in most things that the components come together and must function as a system. Generally they will never be better than what the weakest link in the system. My son's race car may have a 3,000 hp motor but if you don't have the convertor, transmission, rear end, wheels and tires to get that power to the track you will not be successful. Sometimes it is important to have all the components at a consistent level and get on with it where you are at the time.

Best,
Todd Ferguson
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Nov 4, 2017 12:49:15   #
Yes, that sounds like a good deal...

Best,
Todd Ferguson

Tinkerron wrote:
Would a Nikon D3400 DSLR Camera 24.2MP with 18-55mm and 70-300mm Lenses D3400BUND, be considered a good starter camera? I found one at a great price, or would you prefer another model? I can spend up to about $1200, but the D3400 is under $500. with lenses.
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Nov 4, 2017 09:26:14   #
sb wrote:
The duration of flash is effected - as stated - to catch a hummingbird's wings you have to position a flash close by and set it on a low power setting wich will get the speed to 1/8000 or so. I was fortunate enough to take a college course from Harold "Doc" Edgerton in 1970.(doesn't make me an expert!) We designed and built strobes with speeds of 1/50,000 second which we used to photograph bullets in flight cutting playing cards in half, etc. . The very short flash was not very bright and these photos were taken in a darkened lab. That was using the very early transistors - nothing fancy... Even then he was retired, but the college cherished him so much that he was designated an "Institute Professor" who had no official responsibilities but could keep a lab, have graduate students, and teach classes. He was a gem of a person - he would have us overwhelmed freshmen students over for dinner with he and his wife - "simple folks from Nebraska".

Doc developed high-speed strobes and pioneered high-speed photography - many of his photos appearing in Life magazine. He also developed HUGE strobes for night-time aerial photography over Germany in WWII, and he invented the side-scanning sonar which helped find the Titanic - but he famously went with Michael Ballard looking for the Loch Ness monster with it.

He also designed lens systems for photographing down to 1/100,000 sec, with which he photographed the very fist open-air tests of hydrogen bombs.

Just wanted to give the man his due here! We owe him a lot.

See: http://edgerton-digital-collections.org/galleries/iconic
The duration of flash is effected - as stated - to... (show quote)



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Nov 4, 2017 07:15:58   #
To me it is a decision based on the look you like and what you want your image to be. What really gets me is portraits where the skin is smoothed to the point of looking like a china doll... Especially when I know the person is in their 50s.

Best,
Todd Ferguson
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Nov 4, 2017 07:08:15   #
dsmeltz wrote:
Oil? Watercolor? Expressionist? Abstract?

Prisma does them all

https://prisma-ai.com/


Exactly!!! I was thinking that Photoshop used to have a watercolor selection and a posterize selection. Maybe I am thinking back to Photoshop 3.0...

Best,
Todd Ferguson
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Nov 4, 2017 06:59:13   #
I my opinion consumer cameras with all their different modes only cause more confusion and slower learning. I would rather start people out with an older advanced or pro level camera that has P, Tv, Av and Manual modes. If you must start with a consumer camera then ignore the other modes if you really want to learn photography. Once you learn about exposure you will be set for life. Often learning costs a little time and money...

Best,
Todd Ferguson

Screamin Scott wrote:
I can only think some are not sure they will continue with the hobby & want to keep the price & complexity to a minimum...
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Nov 4, 2017 06:51:02   #
67skylark27 wrote:
I would set your iso down to 1600, max aperture, and shutter speed at 1/640.
1/800 is preferred like you are using. Having access to Lightroom really helps,
if you shoot raw you can fix that darker exposure no problem, then shutter speed takes priority
to take out any motion blur. The bad lighting in most gyms for volleyball is the big issue
for getting good pics. IMO prime lenses are more suited to shooting volleyball,
unless you are shooting full frame of course. I shoot with a D5300 so I compensate
by shooting with prime lenses and crop in Lightroom as necessary.
I have yet to get a 70-200 2.8 because I cannot shoot my primes at 2.8, I'm shooting
them wide open at 1.8, 1/800 and 1250 ISO and get my best results there.
Lately my 85mm f1.8 has gotten me the most keepers. My 50mm is good too when
I'm really close.
I would set your iso down to 1600, max aperture, a... (show quote)




I shot my daughters volleyball games from high school through college. My go to lens was an 85 f/1.8 Canon on my 1.3 crop body. This gave me an equivalent field of view of 110mm. Some lens that gets you into the 100-135 equivalent range is good if you are close. The Canon 85 f/1.8 is also fast focusing. That combo worked very well courtside in the first few rows.

I would lower your shutter speed and ISO down to 1250. Slower shutter speeds can freeze most motion. Where the motion will show up is in the arm and hand movements of hitters. I found if lighting was bad I could live with that. You should be able to remove a lot of the noise in Lightroom if you shoot RAW.

Best,
Todd Ferguson
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Nov 4, 2017 06:38:48   #
jcboy3 wrote:
Sorry, but with most speedlights, flash duration varies with power output. A capacitor is fully charged, and the charge is released until the required level is reached and the discharge is cut off. For example, with a Nikon SB-700, flash duration is 1/40000 sec at 1/128 output, and is 1/1042 sec at full output (per the SB-700 user manual).

To freeze motion, several flashes can be used, each with lower power settings and thus shorter flash duration.

On the other hand, many strobes only charge the capacitors to the power needed, and fully discharge the capacitor when fired. That is why, after charging to a certain level, if you turn down the power on the strobe it will flash to dump charge from the capacitors. But some strobes do have fast discharge settings (such as my Einsteins).
Sorry, but with most speedlights, flash duration v... (show quote)


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Nov 4, 2017 06:34:04   #
I use Eneloops from B&H. 4-8 AA and charger is $20-$30 IIRC...
I would just put the flash on your camera and try ETTL mode to start.
Then you can try Flash EC, called FEC on Canon, play with that. Then you can work your way into the other modes and controls...

Best,
Todd Ferguson
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Nov 3, 2017 22:13:16   #
Burk, I have had the 50gb on iCloud for over a year, but I don't use much of it, maybe 10-20 percent. I probably should be saving that money toward my $10 a month Adobe bill...LOL. The expense as I see it today is mainly the cost of moving data to and from smart phones. Some people are careful enough to do this when they are connected to a home or business network, but many just upload and download as they please. At least that is what I seem to notice around me. So the cell company is charging you to move your data back and forth each month. Maybe I am overblowing it but thats what I see as the situation.

Best,
Todd Ferguson

burkphoto wrote:
50 GB on iCloud costs $.99. Manage it carefully (as a staging and transfer area), and it’s all most individuals need.
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Nov 3, 2017 22:02:00   #
Thanks for sharing that info TriX. I will look it up on the B&H site tomorrow. I have been reasonably satisfied with the slave mode on the Alien Bees. I do in a way wish the slave optical was on the top of the unit like the Digi Bees but the rear location seems to work fairly well... I like the price...

Best,
Todd Ferguson

TriX wrote:
Todd, I am using the same Canon controller and flashes as you, and I’m firing my strobes (novatrons) with the Yongnuo YNE3-RX radio receiver ($32 at B&H), which works great (the pc output is rated at 300v, so will trigger most anything), but I doubt you can trigger it with your Sekonic meter. Except for that, it’s a good and inexpensive solution to use the same Canon controller for either flashes or strobes.
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Nov 3, 2017 20:25:27   #
The LensMaster seems to be a very simple gimbal. I don't see any way raise or lower the camera/lens platform. It seems to be fixed in place. Maybe that is not an issue for many shooters but I would prefer to have more adjustability. Your mileage may vary of course.

Best,
Todd Ferguson

TomV wrote:
I went from a Manfrotto 393 to a LensMaster RH-2 to save size and weight. However, I like the mounting plate on the Manfrotto better so I removed the Arca style from the RH-2 and replaced it with the one like the Manfrotto. Slight countersinking of the Manfrotto mount was required to use the RH-2 mounting screw. I supported my 13+ lb 600mm/camera combo without a hitch, smoothly rotating in all directions. Since one side is open on the LensMaster there is easier access for manual focusing. The Manfrotto frame could get in the way, depending on the position of the focus ring (I also shot with a 400mm and now use a 500mm).

The LensMaster can be disassembled to reduce its size. The knobs are large and tension is easy to control. The friction surfaces are very easy to lubricate. The tension control/smoothness is more refined with the LensMaster vrs the Manfrotto. It is a very good value.
I went from a Manfrotto 393 to a LensMaster RH-2 t... (show quote)
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Nov 3, 2017 18:46:40   #
And if you put a RRS spike on your monopod it makes a fairly good weapon too... Even a Rock Claw is not bad...

Bill Munny wrote:
I use a Pro Master monopod and no ball head. It is also my walking staff, which it is made for with a hand strap and a spike/rubber tip. It extends up to 70 inches (I am 6'2") which makes me bend just slightly when the camera and lens are mounted. Very light weight but extremely strong. Does not have a weight limit stated but has held up this 190 lb body for two years now. It has twist locks, not clips. I would not suggest a ball head on a monopod. Do not cut corners on cost. The monopods with 3 small feet at the bottom are mostly a gimmick so don't waste you money on them unless you do a lot of shooting in very level areas.
I use a Pro Master monopod and no ball head. It i... (show quote)
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