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Nov 7, 2023 19:20:47   #
I predict this is just the beginning of the end for still cameras. With the Olympus' Pro Capture mode, now being copied by Pany and Nikon, the no mechanical shutters, global shutters, ever increasing write speeds and increasingly cheap data storage, eventually people will simply take a short video and be able to pull out the perfect moment, maybe 50 meg capture, with no real figurin' by the photographer. Noise will be gone, performance in near darkness will be excellent. Watch the short video, click a button for the exact right moment, and its a done deal.
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Nov 7, 2023 14:01:53   #
CHG_CANON wrote:
I still use ND filters for really long exposures and (very occasionally) to let me use wide / widest apertures in very bright light. Two situations controlled at the camera level, not in post.


Early in my photography quest, I went on a photo tour with a guy in Prague. He liked using very dark ND filters and very long exposures in heavily traveled areas that essentially removed all visual evidence of human movement. They were great photos of the square, etc. But horribly boring. Had I been more advanced, I might have used a much less heavy ND filter to purposely get blurry people moving across the shots...way more interesting.

We went on to Auschwitz where I fumbled around taking photos...and I never show those photos. But later, saw an exhibit of a photog who effectively used an ND filter to capture sharp images of the physical facility but with very blurry images of people movement. It looked like spirits were there. Very powerful and meaningful photography. If only I knew then....

Filters are tools...pick the right tool for the right photo. Have an artistic vision when using a filter. I see no reason to use a red filter since that effect can be achieved in PP. I only carry a polarizer since my Oly camera has a built in, albeit electronic, ND filter capability.
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Nov 7, 2023 10:43:24   #
burkphoto wrote:
Thanks! It's Adobe's suggested way to work. Especially for raw workflow, the key is to keep everything in the deepest bit depth and widest color space available, UNTIL you output a specific file for a specific purpose. It yields the most accurate color available, especially if you use Soft Proofing (which is essentially putting an output profile OR a printer profile in the path ahead of your custom monitor profile, so you can see what the output device will do with your color).


Exactly..
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Nov 7, 2023 10:20:02   #
burkphoto wrote:


My workflow is based around Lightroom Classic (LrC) being the "hub." Photoshop and all other graphic applications are "spokes." Everything starts from the hub, goes out to a spoke, and comes back to the hub before it goes anywhere else.


That is about the best description of the proper use of LR I have seen. If people can internalize this concept they'd be way ahead of the game.
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Nov 7, 2023 10:00:34   #
imagextrordinair wrote:
It is true there are ways to gain flexibility in your photo editing, like for cropping.

More mega pixels may be less expensive than purchasing multiple focal lengths and perhaps wiser monetarily, but for too many I believe it is also a form of laziness. Relying on a sensor stuffed with small but plentiful pixels to reduce legwork or composure skills is more picture taking than producing a quality image.

For me I prefer composure and avoid cropping as much as possible. I take my time and use skills that have developed over time to get the image I see when I compose from the start.

Simple math will tell you what you need to know when choosing pixel density. An example is 20 megapixel sensors will print images to 21.9x 14.6, and 100 mpxls will print to 49x 32.6. that's what they say but there is more...

The truth is that your lens also plays a big part in the outcome. I print regularly to 60 inches wide at 50 mega pixels using a TSE lens. I recently printed at that resolution with detail so fine you can see people holding their cell phone in the deepest part of a landscape image nearly two mile away.

Pixel density is less important than pixel quality, spacing and pitch. 9 times out of ten most are reducing the size of their image for social media plus never print large. You could do well with 10 megapixels if you do not crop or print big.

The result and use of your image is all that maters, so understanding pixel overkill is possible, plus the fact that you can achieve more with composure and good glass might be something more important to think about.

any image edited under two-feet wide means a 20 mega pixel sensor will be more than enough. Additionally a tilt shift lens can turn your 20 mega pixels into 50 in under a minute, an option mostly ignored.

One of the best learning methods to consider is to use only one fixed focal length each day for a week and force yourself to move forward and back to compose regardless of look vs focal length.

Understanding composure, practice, a good lenses and avoiding being a picture taker will be much more valuable than purchasing a 100 megapixel camera body that will most likely slow down your computer... and eventually be reduced to 6 mega pixels for things like magazine or social media needs...

The horse is not quite dead yet i will assume...
It is true there are ways to gain flexibility in y... (show quote)


Welcome to the UHH. I see that this is your third posting...all on pixel count. Maybe expand your interests or perhaps this is just coincidence? Consider attaching a link to your photo website if you have one.

You will soon see, unfortunately, some sad sack hogs can take the most benign topics and allow them to devolve into insults over...zoom lenses or pixel counts, camera brands or filters. Makes for a great start of the day!

On to your comment. I shoot micro 4/3 gear and am limited to 20 mgs. I typically shoot street / travel stuff mostly. I have no interest, what so ever, to go somewhere specifically to take - make photographs. For me, its boring.

Therefore, I tend to get what I get. I can try to get closer or re-compose, but often moments are very fleeting. In fact, on occasion judges in our photo club comment on my photos that something else should have been in the frame...usually which did not exist at the time...because the photos were not staged and/or I was on the move. On occasion, I score well and have had photos ranked with merit and have a photo or two ranked as among the top photos of the year...but I certainly do not score like the dedicated (and exceptional) photogs who go out with the sole intent to take photographs. I am like an amateur golfer who pars a hole maybe 10% of the time, which is what keeps us coming back!

As others mentioned, if you are shooting wildlife, sports, kids in motion, then you, of course, want to position yourself in the best possible position, but you may be limited to how close you can get to the subject. Look no further than YouTube for some of the foolish behavior of people at our Yellowstone National Park where people like to take selfies with wild bison and even bears. The zoomed with their feet to get THE shot and it sometimes does not end well. Bison are so strong, they can actually launch people 20 feet up into trees. Who knew?

Pixels do help a lot in cropping. I have, on occasion, shot something then later saw a better shot if the pic were really cropped. I am limited. I can up-size the photo using LR or Topaz, but that does have limitations. So, opportunity lost. Its a hobby, not a vocation.

Different environments have different equipment needs. Traveling, I carry less and less gear because we are at the point of trying to travel with all carry on luggage and I am tired of carrying around gear. In fact, I carry a small Sony (jury is still out on that.) If and when a grand child starts playing sports I will try my m43 gear and if that does not suit me, I will change to something else....maybe full frame. Who knows? I'm not married to any piece of equipment.
If I am fishing for trout, I use trout gear. If I am fishing for large tuna, I use heavy tackle...same with photography. (Very large tuna is way more fun, BTW. )

There is a tech side of this hobby, of course. But I'd rather focus on the art side of the hobby. For me, it is where the improvement comes from continual critique, learning, being mentored, judged, and even a little bit of teaching. Over time, my so called style developed into what it is. I find it fun to be somewhere, see a photo op that no one else sees and make a bit of art. Pixels are an issue, but really a sideshow.
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Nov 7, 2023 09:06:28   #
For nostalgia maybe try the red filter. But with Lightroom’s (and I suspect other programs) uncanny automatic masking capabilities I’d do all this in post. Save time, added flexibility in processing alternatives.
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Nov 6, 2023 21:13:41   #
As Abraham Lincoln once said, “Do not believe everything you read on the internet.”
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Nov 6, 2023 15:03:09   #
CHG_CANON wrote:
I'd add 'long(er) term' thinking about organization, in two ways:

a, primary storage of all image files.
b, back-up copies of all files, images, documents, passwords, etc.

For LR focus, try google: adobe lightroom getting started video training. Learn to save the URLs of useful videos and / or authors. Be sure to search the Support / Training section of Adobe.com using your sign-on credentials for subscriber-only training.


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Nov 6, 2023 14:44:14   #
CHG_CANON wrote:
If you're concerned about wasting your time and / or making matters worse, why would you take on this time wasting idea?

At this point, page 4 over multiple days, multiple people have asked for more specifics (details) about what you think is 'wrong'. I may have missed a relevant reply, but all I've seen is a lack of organization. None of these Adobe softwares have anything to do with a lack of personal (human) organization of their image files. Reinstalling the software will do nothing to address this, making this a completely unreasonable idea to pursue.believes there are

Rather, breaking down your 'problems' (crisis?) into a list of categories of issues would be more reasonable next-step. People might help you with who / where to address each specific item. Some might be with Adobe's help, others might be get yourself some training from videos at Adobe.com and / utube. Others might be as easy as 'use your brain - think about it' like how would your organization your sock drawer? Can't you think about how to do the same organization for your image files?
If you're concerned about wasting your time and / ... (show quote)


I am pm'ing with our friend and think i have somewhat boiled it down.

1- He's on a mac.
2- His file/folder structure is unorganized.
3- Believes there is a difference between "photoshop files and lightroom files" and has stored them in separate places.

My initial advice was to abandon photoshop entirely. That is a dragon to be slayed another day...and a dragon i continue to battle.

Determine if he can make a folder with subfolders and move files into folders all within his operating system. He could, of course do this in LR, but that takes a bit of understanding of LR. And I suspect this affects other files as well.

If and when that is done, figure out a way to get him going on very very basic intro to LR. I've not yet found a good into to LR that does no assume some prior knowledge. I have a friend who does mac tutoring who also cleans up the system, help people etc. So that may come into play.


A good youtube recommendation might help on the starting with LR.
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Nov 6, 2023 13:40:22   #
kpsk_sony wrote:
Thanks, I have tried you tube and found it to be a bit of a "rush" through with no time to see and check back, It may only be my slowness


Then your problem has nothing to do with photoshop. That was a red herring. You need to learn how to organize all your files into folders, etc. properly. That is a whole 'nuther issue.

And if you're having issues with simple computer organization, then I strongly suggest abandoning notions of Photoshop for now...that is a very advanced graphics program.

Answer this...do you have a mac or a PC? I ask because I do have a friend who does mac support, for a price, who can possibly get you up to speed on folders, and can even clean up some messes you might have created elsewhere in the mac.
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Nov 6, 2023 10:30:52   #
The OP has not given much more info on the multitude of suggestions here. Now, everyone if flying in the dark until he answers up...is it a file/folder problem, a Photoshop problem, who knows?
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Nov 5, 2023 19:29:22   #
wdross wrote:
Not with OM or Panasonic. If the camera is stated as weatherproof, it is weatherproof. That usually means wind, dust, and snow too (at least it is for my former E-M5 and for my present E-M1 mkII and mkIII). There are still videos of an E-M1 sitting for a half hour in a shower. And once wiped relatively dry, kept right on taking pictures. And I have been literally soaked down to my underwear and socks and still shooting in the rain. I should have taken a picture of all the other cameras being kept out of the rain and not being used in Mikonos. And when on a cruise, one shoots because that is the time one is there - sunny weather or not.
Not with OM or Panasonic. If the camera is stated ... (show quote)


Why were you just wearing underwear and socks in the rain? That’s a crime out west.

Ok, I jest. The weather resistance of the Oly system is quite remarkable. I never protect it from rain. Took it on maid of the mist at Niagara and not a problem.

Anyhoo the Op has a lot of good advice.
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Nov 5, 2023 17:23:16   #
PHRubin wrote:
Small and lightweight is at odds with top quality images. The more of 1, the less of the other. The 1" pocketable or bridge cameras are in the middle with good quality and lightweight. I favor the Panasonic offerings because of the bang for buck. The ZS100 (aka TZ100) or ZS200D pocketable or the FZ1000 or FZ2500 bridge cameras in particular. The much more expensive Sony models competing are the RX100vii pocketable or the RX10iv bridge. I wonder if the pop-up EVF on the RX100 is too weak to stand up to rough handling. Also, some comment that the Sony menus are not very intuitive. However, they may have slightly better quality images.

The 1" sensor models are much better than the 1/2.3" alternatives (in similar packages) in having lower noise levels, especially important in low light situations.
The bridge models have more "reach" with zooms that go further into the tele range but are bigger.

I own the ZS100 and love it. The only drawbacks for me is that the built-in flashes on pocketables aren't very strong, and my subjects need long lenses, so I also have the ZS80, a 1/2.3" model which allows for longer "reach".
Small and lightweight is at odds with top quality ... (show quote)


I have the RX100 and kinda wonder the same thing. Jury is still out on that little thing. Its a nice travel camera, but I did miss my M43 gear on the last trip. The OP had a relatively clear list of things he wanted. MU43 and the Sony 6XXXX series seemed to be more on the mark.
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Nov 5, 2023 17:17:21   #
JohnSwanda wrote:
Have you ever used Adobe support? I would guess no the way you are disparaging them. I certainly wouldn't recommend spending money on support or classes before trying them. Their support is part of what you are paying them for the subscription.


GOYAKOD An acronym we used often at work...meaning Get Off Your Ass and Knock on Doors...more meaning... one never knows what you will get until you try. People often talk. Who knows? Call some person at Adobe and see what happens! Nothing to lose.
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Nov 5, 2023 16:26:15   #
You have a lot of conflated issues...Before you jump into this, please try to separate the issues.

PS is one thing. It is a graphics program that requires quite a lot of tech knowledge and learnin' Unless you are an advanced user, I would say stay away from it for now.

A poor file structure is quite another. Do you know how to make folders and understand how they are used?

Do you have Lightroom as part of the subscription model?? if so, this would be, in my opinion, where I would spend effort to learn photo processing and org structure.

When you say you have a mess, does that mean no file structure or multiples of the same photo?

An excellent source of information is a local camera/photo club. Often there are members who are willing to do some tutoring.

As others mentioned, there may be some tutoring avail for a fee. I would however, suggest maybe a local person to help.

If it is a need for very basic computer instruction, then look at the local community college or adult education center for help. I started on my Lightroom journey at one and it was very helpful. I later made friends wiht the instructor and we are in the same camera club (she is a master at photoshop!).

So give us a bit more refined info and maybe we can help.
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