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Posts for: Rich1939
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Oct 25, 2019 14:47:32   #
Flickwet wrote:
Best reply yet, Thank you, my biggest concern is reliability and for the price I may be better off with the D610, as its newer, whereas the D700 while more robust, is older and less feature rich.


A question I might look into if considering the D700 (a FINE camera) is parts availability should something go south. The D610 (also a FINE camera) only recently went out of production so parts should still be available
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Oct 25, 2019 14:37:18   #
Los-Angeles-Shooter wrote:
http://petapixel.com/2019/10/21/beware-new-3d-airport-scanners-will-destroy-your-camera-film/?utm_source=feedburner&utm_medium=feed&utm_campaign=Feed%3A+PetaPixel+%28PetaPixel%29


Scanners have been suspect when comes to film for a very long time.
When traveling back in the dark ages I would ask the operators to hand inspect inspect my film (which I had in a small bag). They were always accommodating.
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Oct 25, 2019 09:59:56   #
jbk224 wrote:
Some interesting responses...
Not selling at MSRP and the 'factory' was not protecting anyone. Clearly lied. The purpose of these shows is to bring their products to your attention and hopefully you will purchase. Just about all other manufacturers there directed you to B&H for their 'show specials'.
Yes, I am a NYorker and this is why I posted this. There is a chance that someone from WD will read this and 'handle the situation'..not for me but for the future.
The rep didn't 'direct me to their distribution chain'. I didn't purchase. I may have if I had asked at B&H.
I agree about Photo Expo in general. Not what it used to be. But what is?
Good that you negotiated and waited. I have had the same experience at Optech.
Thanks for the feedback.
Some interesting responses... br Not selling at MS... (show quote)


Did you bother to check WD's on line prices?
I didn't think so
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Oct 24, 2019 09:29:36   #
Flickwet wrote:
After opening and working on a RAW file, what do you save it as, certainly not a jpeg...


I save as a .psd file which leaves all future options open.
From the .psd you can create a .jpg for the web, if you print your own you can print from the .psd and if you "change your mind" you can still alter the final image. In my mind an image is never finished. You will always find new or different techniques and post processing software is constantly improving.
Leave your options open. Yes a psd file requires more storage space but in the long run you'll think its a small price to pay.
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Oct 23, 2019 10:52:21   #
[quote=PaulR01]Brutally Honest Caricatures of ‘Typical’ Male and Female Photographers

"Which one are you?"
The other one
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Oct 23, 2019 10:43:40   #
mas24 wrote:
A tight rubber wrist band, around the focus ring, may help reduce the wobble. I have been told, that sometimes worn bushings inside the lens, causes the excessive wobble.


A good 'field' repair that can work for years
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Oct 22, 2019 16:21:16   #
rockdog wrote:
On photo/road trips I sometimes attempt to use the actual road in a composition. This was taken looking south from the Mono Lake Basin with smoke in the air from a fire in the Sierras.
This is my first post in this section, I subscribed early and have seen some good work here.
Phil


I too like the way the road leads you into the picture then leaves the viewer in the middle of a cool symmetrical vista gazing in all directions.

Aside; if that had been a passing zone, compression would have made the dashes look like the yellow brick road.
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Oct 22, 2019 09:28:52   #
Architect1776 wrote:
Looking at the silly arguments the bottom line is that today most all lenses exceed the ability of the pixel peepers to produce a photo meeting the capability of all these lenses.
One can obsess over straining at gnats or go produce incredible photos with that "kit" lens that blow away the sharp lens every day.
Yes you think that your lens is sharp, I love my superb 100-400 L for it's incredible sharpness even with a TC. But I see no reason to worry about it because I am working to meet its fullest potential.
Looking at the silly arguments the bottom line is ... (show quote)


There's a lot of truth there.
In a practical sense, you will never achieve the same level of sharpness in the field, that the lab did when they bench tested your lens. A lens is tested under ideal conditions,and a major part of that is that the lens is mounted on a rock solid bench. A condition you can only duplicate in the field by chance. Your tripod will never be as solid as that bench. Just a tiny bit of movement and you loose some acuity.
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Oct 22, 2019 08:53:11   #
larez wrote:
> who makes a sharper 70:200mm lens than Nikon's 70-200m f2.8E FL ED VR

tamron does. their g2 is sharper, *all* 70-200 f2.8 nikkors sucked versus tamrons


Sucked?? Really?
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Oct 21, 2019 14:25:07   #
dsmeltz wrote:
They test sensors and lenses. They really do not test the whole camera or even the most important elements of a camera. (Hint, the sensor IS NOT the most important part of a camera.)


And since the test results are heavily weighted by which camera they use, you will not get a clear lens test from them either.
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Oct 21, 2019 13:50:48   #
amfoto1 wrote:
Yes, very interesting.

I agree with many of the points made.

But I think some things mentioned are specific to that particular Print Lab.

1. He asks that all files be 16-bit TIFFs in Adobe 1998 RGB color space. That may be fine for them, but not all labs want or even accept that type of file. The reason Print Lab wants those files is so they can adjust the images. Some printing services I've worked with prefer or even require 8-bit JPEGs and sRGB. This is also the best type of file for your own printing at home, with an ink jet. He also doesn't mention and appears to assume that the photographer is shooting RAW files. If they were instead shooting 8-bit JPEGs in sRGB color space, there would be little to be gained converting them to 16-bit, Adobe RGB color before sending them to the printer!

2. I also don't agree about monitor calibration and ICC profiles. Yes, you need a monitor that can BE calibrated (many can, some cannot). Once again, Print Lab makes the final adjustments (and probably charges more for the service), so it's not necessarily very critical for people using that particular printing service to set their monitor precisely. He also references Apple monitors, which not everyone uses! For many other printing services, you will usually be better off using a properly calibrated monitor. Calibration sets the brightness of the monitor as well as fine tuning the color rendition. And calibration needs to be re-done periodically because as it ages a monitor will gradually lose brightness and change how it renders color.

It also is helpful to install and use the printing service's ICC profile for your soft-proofing, to have as close as possible image on your computer screen, as it will appear once they print it. It's not 100%... never will be... because there's a difference between viewing a back-lit illuminated image on a computer screen versus viewing a print by reflected light. He does bring up a good point about how the light under which a print will be viewed will have some effect on its appearance.

3. He also states a preference for prints displayed without glass (the big prints behind him on the wall appear to be held up by thumb tacks!) I'm not surprised that a professional printer would appreciate the raw print without any glass to protect it.... after all, the print is what they are all about! But an unprotected print displayed the way theirs were won't hold up very long... Plus we don't get free reprints, the way I'm sure they do! Maybe it's a little self-serving too, since we'll need to replace our prints fairly often and spend more money with them if we hang our prints that way. If someone prefers to display without framing under glass there are other possibilities: printing directly onto other types of surfaces or mounting a print and coating it with something protective.

While that's an interesting video with a lot of good info, I'm most certainly going to continue to calibrate my monitor. I'll also consult with the printing service I'm using as to what type of file and color space they prefer or require. While I do my post-processing work on my images in 16-bit mode (TIFF or PSD), for my own printing at home with an 8-color inkjet I see no difference (other than slower printing and more ink consumption) printing from those files. So one of my last steps will continue to be to reduce to an 8-bit JPEG. It's also what my primary printing service prefers (although they don't require it).
Yes, very interesting. br br I agree with many o... (show quote)


I too disagree with him as far as monitor calibrating. DO IT! It certainly can;t hurt.
I do find using Adobe RGB gives me the most consistent results (I print my own 'cause I can) and he did qualify his recommendations, pro and con about the use of glass for display. I personally no longer use glass. 1st because I'm on a fixed income and getting more miserly all the the time but, I have found I actually like my prints that way.
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Oct 21, 2019 13:36:08   #
Delderby wrote:
This forum seems to be in favour of a "GOOD photographer" not necessarily being good with cameras but good with RAW PP. BUT a sharp lens is a sharp lens. Let no-one kid themselves that PP can make up for a
soft one.


I certainly hope you're not trying to start yet another "SOOC vs, PP" debate!
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Oct 21, 2019 12:40:27   #
Gene51 wrote:
Sharpness is subjective. By this I mean that it is not measurable. You can measure with precision a lens' acuity and contrast. But there is no accurate measurement for "sharpness". This is mainly because the perception of sharpness is affected by viewing distance, subject matter, camera resolution, image magnification, and above all a person's eyesight. I am aware that DXO rates a lens with regards to "sharpness" but they are using a subjective determination, and a comparison to a "perfect" or theoretically flawless lens, and they use P-Mpix, or perceptual megapixels to rate the performance of a given lens on a given camera and how it compares to perfection, assuming that the perfect lens returns a P-Mpix number equal to the camera's mp count. So, if a lens shows 21 P-Mpix on a 24mp body, it is telling you that on that body, that lens is providing 21 of 24 mp performance, or 87.5%. If another lens is tested and its P-Mpix score is 12 on the same body, then you are getting only 50% of the camera's resolution.

So, when you say something like "Zeis [sic] 24 to 70 or is it 24 to 80 2.8 is the sharpest all purpose lens available" what exactly are you referring to as sharpness?
Sharpness is subjective. By this I mean that it is... (show quote)


Adding a thought or two to Gene’s post (I hope he won’t mind).
If you do go to DXO please pay strict attention to the camera the lens is rated with.
EX. If you see a lens rated @ 21 on a 24MP camera and a different lens is rated at 29, if the 29 rating is on a 36MP camera, it didn’t score as well as the first one.
Very often we will rate a lens sharper if it has better contrast. Think of this, when we use sharpening in a post processing program, it actually only increases the edge contrasts and doesn’t sharpen a thing. Only the perception.
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Oct 21, 2019 09:17:14   #
Thank you for the link.
Some interesting comments. Particularly those about monitor calibration and they could start a heated debate.
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Oct 18, 2019 18:19:15   #
IDguy wrote:
Nikon mirrorless Zs have a problem with dust on the sensor because the shutter remains open when you change lenses and the sensor is closer to the opening.

Also, Nikon dissuades touching the sensor for cleaning because the IBIS is very fragile. At least the Z50 shouldn’t have that problem. I don’t know if the Z50 has internal dust removal but that doesn’t seem to work on my Z6.


I hadn't heard that about the Nikons. Which one are you using?
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