I was at the local zoo shooting the baby cub lions. I was using burst mode. When I go home a started to post process them I had some shots I never realized I had gotten. If I had not used burst mode, I would never have gotten that perfect shot. Sure I deleted a bunch, I had a bucket full of pixels, but I got the shot I wanted. Burst ON

As long as this post is on the Wacom tablet. Can anyone recommend some good tutorials for the Wacom tablet? This device is not really all that intuitive.

I don't recall the professional photographer's name, but there was an article about the Olympus 4/3 mirrorless camera by a National Geographic photographers who switched to the Olympus system. He was using it in some really challenging environments and he really liked it. The camera performed well. I switched to Olympus mirrorless last year and really love the camera. Sold all my Canon cameras and lenses to afford the new Olympus. Not sure I would want a new Canon mirrorless, being that it would be the same size as the DSLR basically. One of the main reasons why I switched was to lighten the load and size.

Most homeowner insurance coverages only cover - theft or fire things of that nature, may be lost or stolen, but not drop or breakage. And Square Trade or the other drop and breakage insurance's don't cover fire - theft, and loss. So that is why I carry both. Homeowners for the fire, etc and Newleaf for the drop and breakage. When you have good equipment it pays to have insurance. Some homeowners my cover breakage, but best to check with our carrier.

I think it's a good question. My thoughts are, go out and shoot the scene in the morning and then shoot the same scene at sunset (yea I know the sun is on the other side) and see which one you like the best. After all, it's what you like that counts. And I would venture to say that if you shot a morning scene and sunset, you could post process them to where you really couldn't tell when it was shot. So go forth and shoot to your hearts desire and have fun.

My experience with B &H and Adorma is that I can call and talk to them or do a live chat and get all the technical advice I need to make a intelligent decision on what I want to buy. They have experts in whatever brand and type of equipment you want to buy. You don't have to talk to just one person that has limited knowledge. So many of the photography stores have gone out of business in many towns that you have to turn to on-line buying or travel a great distance. And with the price of gas going up, there would be no savings.

If your not looking to spend a lot of money and still want a good mirroless, try the Sony A6000. Got a really good deal at Best Buy. I have it and really like it. Light, nice lenses and produces good quality images. I had lots of Canon equipment and really liked the idea of a really good mirrorless so I sold all the Canon stuff and bought the Olympus E-M1 MK II and just love the camera and all the lenses. I did go with the f2.8 pro lenses, not cheap, but hay at my age this may be the last camera I buy so I went for it.

Take a look at the image in LR - Detail Panel. First work with removing any Color Noise then remove any Luminance Noise, after that do any Sharpening that may be needed. Then make all your basic Globel and Local adjustments while still in color. Then convert to B&W. You can do this in LR using the B&W option in the Basic-Treatment Panel. Check out the LR presets for B&W or the Profiles on the right panel if you have LR Classic. Explore the B&W Mix Panel after you select B&W in the Treatment Panel. You can also try NIK Silver Effects Pro - it does a great job also. After you make your first B&W adjustments, make a print and see how it turns out. Once you see it in print form you may want to go back and make some more adjustments. Creating a good B&W is not a one-step process. B&W is lots of fun. Enjoy the process.

I have used UV filters on all my lenses. I have heard all the pro's and con's. I had a large scratch show up on one lens with a UV filter. Not sure how it happened, but it did. I was sure glad it was just the filter that took the hit and not the lens itself. It saved the day. I agree, lens caps help, but you still have to take the lens cap off to shoot. So now all that protection is gone. Do I want to keep taking the lens cap on and off everytime I want to take a shot while out shooting? Don't think so. The lens hood is a great form of protection - I fully agree. As I recall I did have the lens hood on that particular lens and the filter still got scratched. Go figure. Just glad I had the UV filter on.

Shooting in JPEG is never going to give you the control in PP. If you think you need JPEG for some reason (quick show and tell) then shoot in RAW and JPEG.

This photo was shot in RAW - PP in Lightroom and exported in JPEG. The metadata is: Spot Metered, ISO 400, 1/1000, f/5.9, Focal length 350mm with my Olympus 4/3rds camera. I focused on the bird in flight (spot metered) so I would expose for the bird, not the sky.

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Thanks so much for the great links. They answered my questions to a "T". Really like the article with the calculators.

I did just what you did a few months ago. Did the Groupon thing and ordered two 16 x 20 metal prints. They came in a normal time, but the first set had blotches of ink, scratches on both prints. I contacted them by email and they had me send them pictures of the problem. They did replace them for free and free shipping. The second set came with problems on the one print. I emailed them again and they had me send them photos of the problem. They sent me a replacement. The third replacement they replaced both prints, not just the one. Even though I got replacement prints the quality of the metal prints is not very good. It's a strange looking color to the prints, almost like a hologram looking effect. Nothing I really wanted to hang on my wall. I turned around and ordered metal prints from Shutterfly with a 50% coupon and got exactly want I wanted. The metal prints from Shutterfly came with the hanging blocks already on the metal prints. The hanging blocks form Printerpix were loose in the box and you had to mount them yourself, risking bending the metal. No thank you. I will never order from Printepix ever again.

First time I've seen this topic. Very informative.

Rather than spend $150-to $200 on a dehumidifier case I oped for the Desiccant Packets(Rechargeable) from Amazon. https://www.amazon.com/Packets-Premium-Silica-Desiccant-Dehumidifiers/dp/B073DJSRTT/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?ie=UTF8&qid=1537708007&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=desiccant&psc=1

For $11.00 I get 50 packs plus some cards. I can put them in each lens bag and in my camera bag. What I like about them is that they change color when they start to absorb moisture. Then change them out and they are rechargeable in the microwave. A win-win situation for just $11.00

Try Topaz Studio - AI Clear does even better then DeNoise.

I use ON 1 - and LR and PS. ON 1 is a fairly new post processing software, but guess what, it is going to go the same way as other software, they will upgrade and upgrade and add new features and somewhere down the line your old Windows 7 will no longer work, the same way with Nik and Topaz. Are all those Windows 8 and XP users still driving cars with carburetors and distributors and points. Electronic ignition and fuel injection has been around a long time. So why not get on the band wagon and upgrade your computer technology?