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Posts for: Grahame
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Jan 14, 2019 21:57:33   #
srt101fan wrote:
Actually mine only has one thumb-wheel. If used by itself, it changes shutter speed; if used while holding down a button, it changes aperture.


I only put that rider in because I was sure someone was going to come along and say it's not quick because if you only have one thumb-wheel it's two milliseconds slower
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Jan 14, 2019 18:05:24   #
srt101fan wrote:
So here we have it! The issue at the heart of the debate! Shooters who advocate using the full Manual shooting mode don't trust their cameras!!!

Scotty, it's not a question of trusting or not trusting the camera. It's a question of how to use the camera's controls to get what you want. It's a question of how fast you can react to changing light and moving subjects and your willingness to let the camera help you. (Suggestion: Read Steve Perry's posts and watch his Auto ISO video!)

You, and some others, seem to assume that anyone who uses a mode like M+Auto ISO is going to blindly accept the ISO setting the camera gives them. No; the camera suggests an ISO setting; if you don't like it, you change settings BEFORE you take the shot. YOU ARE IN CONTROL!

M+Auto ISO is not called for in all situations. But I like it for general, "walking around" photography. Being an old guy, I need to keep the shutter speed up even if the subject is stationary. I may want to set the aperture for depth of field, or to be near the value for best image quality. I might conclude that ISO is the least important variable. So, I set the shooting mode to M so I can set aperture and shutter speed. I then opt to let the camera suggest the ISO value to me - ergo M+Auto ISO shooting mode!

So you say "but the camera doesn't know that a polar bear's butt is white and if you trust the camera it'll turn it gray!"......That's why Bill Gates (or was it Jeff Bezos or Elon Musk?) invented Exposure Compensation!

But "the camera is an idiot and might pick too high an ISO!".......Set an ISO limit. "What if, even with a limit, I still don't like the ISO my untrustworthy camera picks?"......Reconsider how important your shutter and aperture settings are to you and adjust as necessary - YOU ARE IN CONTROL!

Was it Reagan who said "Trust but verify..."? Maybe that's the way we should view a camera's semi-automatic settings....
So here we have it! The issue at the heart of the... (show quote)


Excellent explanation ! that can be summed up as .........................

Manual + Auto ISO is a method that allows quick full manual control of three variables by the use of only two adjustments.

(if you are lucky enough to have a camera with two thumb-wheels)
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Jan 13, 2019 22:10:10   #
Gene51 wrote:
I do that all the time. It generally makes for less noisy images and better shadow capture. It's easy to rebalance tones in post processing. There s is no reason not to, especially if it makes for better images, don't you agree?


Yes, I agree that it can be preferable to 'expose' a dark night scene 'brighter' than what you see it, it can give better results when PPd.

I just recently shot a 200 frame time-lapse from sunset to darkness and used 'Auto ISO' to determine the exposure (brightness of the image out of camera) once my set minimum acceptable speed had been reached. So in other words, completely in auto, the camera did it's best to expose all images to mid grey.

But as with all these things we need to know what the results are going to be and if they are suitable for our purpose.
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Jan 13, 2019 19:33:25   #
Elmerviking wrote:
Some argue that ISO has nothing to do with correct exposure..i guess they have to learn about the exposure triangle.


Many generalisations are used with respect to discussing exposure, and too many conclusions jumped to as with your wording suggesting some need to "learn about the exposure triangle".

'Exposure' is often used to describe the amount of light hitting the sensor/film which is determined by Aperture/Speed alone.

'Exposure' is also often used to describe the 'brightness' of the image that comes out of the camera which is determined by Aperture/Speed/ISO.
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Jan 13, 2019 15:37:54   #
Elmerviking wrote:
Never said that! I use EC in that case.


But you asked above, whilst trying to extol the virtues of Auto ISO .............

Elmerviking wrote:
Does auto ISO not give you correct exposure?


Hopefully now you realise Auto ISO does not give "Correct" exposure !
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Jan 13, 2019 15:21:58   #
Elmerviking wrote:
As a plus you don’t have to adjust if the light gets dimmer or brighter...
Is that hard to understand? Or..am I missing something?


So are you saying that that you want a 'dark' scene taken well after sunset to be recorded brighter than it is?
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Jan 13, 2019 14:59:06   #
Elmerviking wrote:
Does auto ISO not give you correct exposure?


If you go back to the start of this thread......................

rbmitch123 wrote:
For this discussion I would be shooting a landscape photo at dusk or in the dark.
...................

'Auto ISO' (or any auto derived setting) is not going to give me the exposure (image brightness recorded on sensor) I want at near dark times well before sunrise and well after sunset.

PS. I'm not an anti Auto ISO user, I use it often but fully understand where it will not work.
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Jan 12, 2019 16:32:11   #
skingfong wrote:
Assuming your are on a tripod for a 2 second exposure, you don't need auto ISO in aperture priority. Keep ISO at 100. The camera will will increase the shutter speed to let the proper amount of light in while you get the benefits of low ISO


But perhaps there's a reason why a 2 second exposure was required and a faster speed is not going to give the result you wanted?

It could be that 'smoothed water' was an objective, there's no sure way of knowing how best to deal with a situation unless the complete story is known.
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Jan 12, 2019 14:13:29   #
Fotoartist wrote:
You are right. In Auto ISO you are still in control of the three variables.


Absolutely.

Unless,

a) you are not bothering to take any notice of the information in the viewfinder as you frame.

b) you don't understand the consequences of the information in the viewfinder.

b) you don't have a camera that gives you adequate information in the viewfinder to make informed decisions.
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Jan 11, 2019 20:22:26   #
rbmitch123 wrote:
In taking a long exposure photo, say 2 seconds, would you ever keep your camera on auto ISO? Most cases I am shooting with Aperture priory and Auto ISO. For this discussion I would be shooting a landscape photo at dusk or in the dark.


Personally no, in that situation (dusk/dark/2 seconds) I would be fully manual, the camera would be on a tripod and I would have time to think/adjust.

But, if you can confidently achieve the three settings you want any mode is suitable, even if using Auto ISO.
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Jan 11, 2019 03:27:54   #
They each look good to me but I'm no portrait expert but can see there's certainly some helpful comments here.

But what did your niece think of them?
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Jan 10, 2019 01:00:43   #
Have you checked the lens rear mount fixing screws ?

I read some time ago that this was the source of a similar problem someone had with OOF on one side due to a couple of 'loose' screws after a drop.
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Jan 8, 2019 23:53:19   #
Bipod wrote:
Auto-ISO is for people who just need a photo to document something and
don't care about image quality. For security cameras, it's great.


A rather misleading and unconsidered statement.

There will be many of us that use 'Auto ISO' whilst being fully aware of what each parameter is at and its affect towards the finished result we want to achieve.
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Jan 4, 2019 03:34:40   #
paver wrote:


I quess my question is, do most of you approach apature from a depth of field perspective FIRST, .....................


I would say yes and it's generally the first of the three parameters I set. What I will set is the aperture that I know will give me just adequate DoF for the subject based on my experience of subject/camera/lens result that will be achieved.


paver wrote:
.................... and then s. speed and ISO second, if possible, to provide proper exposure while in apature priority?


Shutter speed will then be next. I will look at/set this to just freeze movement taking account of lens FL and whether hand held or on tripod (disregarding long exposures).

I will then look at what ISO was needed to achieve the exposure I want and if it's low may decide to give myself more leeway on the above two settings. I use this procedure if I am using aperture priority or manual auto ISO.
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Jan 2, 2019 13:35:21   #
A. T. wrote:
I guess my only dilemma would be knowing how high to set my ISO max. I know it depends on the camera and what my noise tolerances are. My D500 tolerates higher ISOs than I do, LOL.


Set it high, because all the time you are looking through the viewfinder you will be able to instantly see what it's doing and make quick appropriate adjustments to meet your shot priorities.
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