I don't use an iPad, but the Windows Infinity Photo has what is called the Perspective tool. It lays out a grid over your image and you can click and drag any part of the image. Grab the upper or lower part of the grid and drag to straighten. You can warp any part of the image. There is also a WARP tool. I've never used that tool.

Hope that helps. Also, I suggest you view the videos that Serif has put out for the PERSPECTIVE tool.

Kozan

You do not want the aperture to change while shooting HDR. So, you want aperture priority.

This photo was easily fixed in Affinity Photo. I downloaded the picture and used a levels adjustment to increase the exposure. It's at least 1 stop too dark. And the WB needs to go towards blue, which is just a way of saying raising the color temperature. That's all that was necessary.

You can do both of those in Affinity. Work on your RAW file, then go to the Develop module. If you need to work on it there, do so, then go to File, then down to EXPORT. A window will pop up where you can choose JPEG, or TIFF, or one of 8 or 10 formats.

If you are importing a JPEG to work on, it comes up in the PHOTO module. You can edit a JPEG.

I suggest you watch all the Affinity basic videos that explain all of this. They are on the Affinity forum and can be reached through the HELP button in Affinity Photo.

The photographer owns the copyright. You have given limited rights to the VFW. So they can do what the contract stipulates. You must have it in writing as to what they can do. If they wanted to sell the images to the car owners, they cannot legally because that's not in the contract.

It is similar to a model release that stipulates you own the copyright and you can do anything with the image you want.

Just specify exactly what they can do-- advertisement, brochure, or whatever. When giving them pictures or files, I would make small files such as no larger than 300 kB. That's fine for newspapers and Facebook, but not large enough for 8" x 10" prints.

Hope this helps,
Kozan

Yes, the crop factor does come into play because it's the field of view that determines how well the image is in focus. Think of it this way- if you were using a 300mm lens, the camera needs to be more steady/stable for an acceptably sharp image. A little bit of movement will cause an out-of-focus image. With a 20mm lens, that same amount of wobble will result in a more in focus image because the actual image in the frame moves a lot less in the frame.

So it's the F.O.V that determines how much out of focus an image goes with the same amount of wobble (camera movement). Therefor, the crop factor needs to be considered in determining shutter speed.

I hope this makes sense.

A gray card is used mainly for the proper exposure. But all gray cards are not equal. Some will not be 18% gray, but maybe 1/2 stop over or under. It's hard to tell which gray card is exactly 18% gray. Some experimentation on your part may be necessary. Perhaps use a gray card with someone holding it and then after the image is taken, use Photoshop or another editing software to judge whether the exposure is correct. If it is you can say the gray card is accurate.

The gray card also can be used for whiter balance IF when you take a picture of the gray card, the red, green, and blue components of white light is shown in equal amounts as shown on your cameras HISTOGRAM. Again, all gray cards do not reflect RGB in equal amounts (necessary to get proper white balance). You need to experiment with your cameras HISTOGRAM to be able to tell. It is probably best to use a pure white card to set white balance.

Again, all white cards are not pure white. Never use printer paper. It will not be pure white and you might get a slight color cast to your images.

To be honest, I would only use a gray card (maybe) in a studio setting. I have had to use the Custom White Balance a few times at high school sporting events such as baseball at night or in a gym for basketball. Auto WB and the in-camera exposure meter is what I use 99.9% of the time.

I always shoot RAW and can easily change in post production, so it's not a big deal.

Good luck.

BTW, 18% gray is the Ansel Adams ZONE 5, which supposedly is in the middle of the ZONES from balck to white. Setting a Zone 5 exposure insures that evrything from black to white will have the proper exposure. That's why you set your camera to 18% gray (ZONE 5).

You waste your time reading comments here when you could just look it up in the manual. Why? Doesn't make sense to me. Maybe you just want social interaction. If that't the case, join Facebook.

I'll give you a number. 22

I am pretty sure the Canon 80D has a 4x5 format. Unfortunely, my Nikon D850 does not.
Consult your manual.

Last week Jupiter was in such a position to see it and the four Galilean moons. It was spectacular. I was shooting the Nikon Coolpix P1000. Did not get a good image because I was shooting handheld. Still, it was pretty amazing to see four distinct moons.

Most of the good magazines come from the UK. I like Practical Photography. I also just ordered N-Photo magazine because I shoot Nikon. They are expensive, but for me, worth it.

Well, before my HDD fails, I bought two 2TB Seagate HDD drives and a StarTech HDD duplicator. Opened up my HP All-in-one computer, took out the 1TB harddrive and duplicated (cloned) it. I am planning on getting a 2TB SSD drive and clone it. Plus get another 8GB SODIMM so I'll have 16 gigs of RAM. Surprisingly, all this was only $180. Sure beats trying to backup and restore.

I won't watch it. Alcoholism and being drunk is not funny.

Absolutely it is NOT cause and effect, just plain coincidence.

Gee--Darn, Bill. That was 50 years ago!