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Nov 13, 2012 00:27:00   #
SteveR wrote:
Tell me...how sharp is your AF-S 80-200? Ken Rockwell says it's the sharpest zoom Nikon has made and an overall sharp lens. You need to read the review, however, because he said that the lenses were inconsistent and he happened to pick out a good one. If you got a good one I wouldn't get rid of it.


Wonder what Ken Rockwell is on about sometimes. Never, ever read anywhere that anyone has had an issue with this lens. It was one of the most popular workhorses used by professionals in every sphere from War Zones to , .. wherever. Built like a tank, heavy but sharp and reliable. I wonder if he is perhaps referring to an over abused 2nd hand one perhaps.
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Nov 12, 2012 17:06:51   #
wizard wrote:
Question: Which would be the better choice for my D600 - the older AF-S 80-200 f2.8 or the newer AF-S 28-300 f3.5-5.6? I understand that the 28-300 will not give me aperature choices when used on my Nikon 35mm and I like the idea of fixed f2.8 over the zoom range as well as the sharpness the 80-200 offers, so I am leaning that way. On the other hand, the 28-300 zoom has VR and I probably would not need to carry any other lenses. Your thoughts would be appreciated.

Wizard


I still use my old 80-200 2.8. Mainly for portraits now and usually on a tripod. I compared the 28-300VR to the 80-200 and imo they just don't compare for portraits. The bokeh on the old lens is just superb and on my D300s, it may just be me, but the colour just seems . . . better? I didn't buy the 28-300 but did get the 70-300 4.5. It's an 'OK' lens (for hunting) but do now wish I'd spent the extra and got the 28-300. These days my backpack (which is in the car whenever we go out), has a D200 with 18-200 attached, the D300 has the 70-300 and my old Leica M3 has a 90mm attached (200ASA colour film). I also carry a Nikkor 50 1.8. (for when I don't want to look too conspicuous). (If I'm just wandering around the shops or whatever, I usually have the little DMC LX3 in my jeans pocket)I find with this lot, its not taking up to much space in the boot of the car and I'm able to deal to almost any situation I find that might inspire me on a day out.
However, from what I've since read I sort of wish I'd gone for the 28-300 rather than the 70-300, but NZ prices being what they are!!! Couldnt really justify the cost (being a poor old retiree :cry: ).
Hope some of this might help you but my overriding comment has to be, even tho its an oldie, dont write off the 2.8 80-200. I would never sell mine. Cheers
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Nov 11, 2012 15:05:41   #
Cheers. Yes parts of NZ are truly scenic and very photogenic. Our native bush is quit lovely. Am going to start posting a couple of pics each week once I get a bit better organised so that may give people, who havent visited, a better appreciation of NZ.
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Nov 11, 2012 14:13:56   #
Like it. Nicely balanced lighting and composition. Also subject ideal for b & w. :thumbup:
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Nov 9, 2012 13:35:36   #
Armadillo wrote:
St3v3M wrote:
http://www.uglyhedgehog.com/t-75674-1.html


The first photo is by far the best, the remaining are over processed and look unnatural.

RAW captures save the maximum amount of photographic information the camera can capture, it is like film in that respect.

RAW is best for two types of photographic situations.
1. You are the type of photographer who sets the camera on "Full Auto" and accepts whatever the camera decides to capture.

2. As the photographer, you have way too much time on your hands and can afford to spend hours in the digital darkroom.

In today's modern digital cameras we have the very latest in JPG compression tools, and they will compress an image to a reasonable file size and preserve most of the critical image information.

If you spend a reasonable amount of time setting up the camera for a good exposure, you will spend a lot less time on the computer correcting camera errors in exposure captures. The advantage of digital today is instant feedback on your capture. Once reviewed on the LCD panel you can correct for poor exposures on the spot, not weeks later when the processed film is returned from the chemical processor.

Try it your self. Make a series of test photos using both RAW captures, and JPG captures. Make sure you use a standard subject set-up for all tests. Try using a Child's toy doll as the subject. Take a couple of shots in RAW using center spot focus, center spot exposure metering, Aperture Priority (Av), and ISO = 400.

Now take the same photos with the highest resolution in JPG format. This time take the time to set the camera White Balance to Auto, and then a few of the other settings (sun, clouds, shade, flash,indecent, florescent).

Compare all your captures and decide what will be best for your needs.

Michael G
quote=St3v3M http://www.uglyhedgehog.com/t-75674-... (show quote)


Isnt it wonderful that we all see things differently. The first two pics, to me, have too much yellow tint (I know, could be an ethnic thing.. but even the guys teeth seem a little yellow on my screen.) The 4th pic looks the most natural to me and makes a pleasing portrait. I don't think focus is a problem but perhaps depth of field is, just a little. Seems very shallow DOF but the focus point is great (on the zip or thereabouts).
As said, all in all, a pleasing result.
As for RAW vs other formats. RAW (or NEF or whatever) I think is a bit like using the original negative back in film days. However, for me the big advantage is that you can do anything to a RAW file you want and years later there is no loss to the file. JPEGs particularly loss a lot of info every time you open the file. Even just rotating a pic in Photoview results in a loss of data. So yes, one can manipulate a RAW file and get lots of effects but these days you can also do a lot with a jpeg, to me the big deal is having a lossless format that wont deteriorate with age.
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Nov 8, 2012 22:49:36   #
stopmedown1 wrote:
2 of olive oil, 1 of vinegar, a little english mustard and a good shake of pepper.


Add a squeeze of lemon and a tsp of Dijon Mustard (instead of the English) and you have our all time favourite Green Salad dressing. :)
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Nov 8, 2012 15:36:52   #
jesseleduc wrote:
Black cardboard for back ground.
white cardboard for the floor
some flour for the sand
and a Van der Graaf and the generator album for the planet earth
Show us what you have in and what you do for fun


Mate, that is very clever. What on earth (s'cuse pun) made you think of that? Anyway, it came out well

:thumbup:
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Nov 8, 2012 15:34:04   #
stopmedown1 wrote:
Just for fun and to make you hungry :D
Look forward to some fun comments.


Great pic mate and one of my favourite lunches; fish fingers, salad and spuds with the jackets on, topped off with very decorative toms and is that a bit of hrd boiled egg? Please send one by jetex to NZ. Cheers
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Nov 7, 2012 14:21:54   #
Here in NZ the greengrocer supplies ones' groceries in thin, strong opaque plastic bags. I always carry one or two in my kit along with a couple of rubber bands. Put the camera and lens in the bag with the lens poking out, then fix with the rubber band around the lens. Water and sand proof - works a treat for me.
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Nov 5, 2012 15:04:58   #
Kuranui wrote:
Hi all. This looks like a great forum. The photos I have seen so far have been lovely. I look forward to viewing more and posting some of my own.


And another welcome, I'm from Tauranga. Seem to have more and more of us NZers popping up here. Hope you enjoy. Cheers
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Nov 2, 2012 16:35:38   #
mack45 wrote:
After 45 years in the Canadian labour force I can retire from my sawmill job and do not need to ever do labour to earn a living again.
I am testing a 26 of Glayva out for to see what is at the bottom. I am just going to go to college for a year and see what works from there on.
I am taking courses in computer technologies.


Well done mack45. I was fortunate enough to 'retire' 10 years ago. A mate who retired a few years before me warned me to have heaps to occupy myself or risk going barmy. He was right. It is so important to plan the years ahead as carefully as when you were working. And enjoy.
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Nov 2, 2012 15:29:19   #
PhotoArtsLA wrote:
When shooting nature and animals, generally there is no need to hold down the shutter and take 6-8 frames per second. Not only does continuous motor drive shooting produce many useless shots, it does not train you. Knowing your surrounding, knowing your animal, and knowing your composition and exposure can create a better picture with only a few clicks at most.

I shot picture below with, as I recall, with a total of three frames. "National Geographic" liked it and published it.

In the second shot of the crow attacking the hawk, I used my motor drive in the way we used to discuss its purpose: motor drives, back in the days of film, kept your eye on the viewfinder, without the hassle of using your thumb to wind the film camera to the next shot. Motor drives allow you to follow action, and shoot only when the time is right. This crow/hawk shot occurred above my Daylight Shooting Stage, and I was simply flexing my old, manual focus skills on an ancient, pre autofocus anything 300/2.8.
When shooting nature and animals, generally there ... (show quote)


Fantastic pics. You wouldn't have had a lot of time to bracket a hundred or so either ;)
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Nov 2, 2012 15:20:49   #
You are right saichiez. Couldn't agree more. :thumbup:
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Oct 31, 2012 16:53:08   #
I think the definition of 'Photographer' is both a technical question and perhaps an emotive one as well. Having migrated 80% to Digital only a few years ago (after more than 50 years of using film), I still struggle with the machine gunner like attitude of many on this site who think nothing of taking 500 (or more) shots a day and then creating their masterpiece with the assistance of Photoshop or its ilk. I read here the other day of someone that proudly asserted they took 15,000 shots a year and their wife took likewise. (Imagine the storage required if shooting RAW files). I have to admit I have difficulty calling these people photographers. Here in NZ, I understand the NZPA (New Zealand Professional Photographers Association) is considering identifying Digital 'Photographers' (sic) as Digital Imagemakers. Have a look at this link for anothers excellent take on the subject http://w:ww.gallery464.co.nz/decisive%20moment%20to%20the%20created%20moment.html. For those who don't want to read the full article I direct you to the final para.
" The potential of photography, as we know it, is in danger if nobody is teaching a photography aesthetic, preferring, as it would seem is the case to instead teach how to use technology more than how to use ones mind and eye! "
Have to agree with this sentiment :)
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Oct 29, 2012 16:50:22   #
energizerdel wrote:
I'm hoping someone here can help me. I like the effect that so many people have when they blur waterfalls, oceans etc, but have tried over and over without any success. I have a Canon 20D, have used a low ISO, small aperture, slow speed, etc etc - all the advice everyone gives, plus have used a ND8 filter and yet still can't get the effect and have no idea what I'm doing wrong. Photos are still coming out extremely over exposed. Any suggestions would be really appreciated. Thanks.


Depending on volume and speed of water about 1/4sec (bracket either way). Focus important on actual water. This was 1/5th sec at f32. Never had to resort to filters myself but tripod or something for support is a good idea. (I carry a small padded 6" sq cushion with sponge in it my wife made and use this as a support when I forget the t/pod.) Don't forget to disconnect the VR if you are a Nikon user. With the best intentions VR seems to stuff up these effects. (Mind you, if using a tripod the VR should be off anyway). Hope this helps.

McLaren Falls

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