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Blurring water - what am I doing wrong?
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Oct 28, 2012 19:29:28   #
energizerdel
 
I'm hoping someone here can help me. I like the effect that so many people have when they blur waterfalls, oceans etc, but have tried over and over without any success. I have a Canon 20D, have used a low ISO, small aperture, slow speed, etc etc - all the advice everyone gives, plus have used a ND8 filter and yet still can't get the effect and have no idea what I'm doing wrong. Photos are still coming out extremely over exposed. Any suggestions would be really appreciated. Thanks.

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Oct 28, 2012 19:34:19   #
dirtpusher Loc: tulsa oklahoma
 
http://www.google.com/search?hl=en&safe=off&tbo=d&site=&source=hp&q=blurring+water+photography&oq=blurring+water&gs_l=mobile-gws-hp.1.0.0l2j0i30l3.5047.30203.0.31977.22.18.1.3.3.0.733.4414.0j5j4j2j0j2j1.14.0.les%3B..0.0...1ac.1.0PQep53_ESU

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Oct 28, 2012 19:37:59   #
jerryc41 Loc: Catskill Mts of NY
 
energizerdel wrote:
I'm hoping someone here can help me. I like the effect that so many people have when they blur waterfalls, oceans etc, but have tried over and over without any success. I have a Canon 20D, have used a low ISO, small aperture, slow speed, etc etc - all the advice everyone gives, plus have used a ND8 filter and yet still can't get the effect and have no idea what I'm doing wrong. Photos are still coming out extremely over exposed. Any suggestions would be really appreciated. Thanks.

Although I'm no expert in this area, that's never stopped me from giving advice. I've done a few shots like this, and I just hand-hold at a low shutter speed.

The most important thing is to get your exposure right. You have the filter, so the camera will want to open the aperture a bit more than if you had a bare lens. I'm guessing you're exposing for too long. Can you post a picture?

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Oct 28, 2012 19:38:13   #
energizerdel
 
Thanks dirtpusher, but seriously I've read so many websites, have magazines and books on it and yet I still can't get the effect.

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Oct 28, 2012 19:43:35   #
jerryc41 Loc: Catskill Mts of NY
 
energizerdel wrote:
Thanks dirtpusher, but seriously I've read so many websites, have magazines and books on it and yet I still can't get the effect.

Post a picture or give us the details of the camera settings.

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Oct 28, 2012 19:43:41   #
Bret Loc: Dayton Ohio
 
Maybe post a photo?

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Oct 28, 2012 19:47:11   #
dirtpusher Loc: tulsa oklahoma
 
Have you tried a long exposure with an nd filter on a tripod.

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Oct 28, 2012 19:52:01   #
Nikonian72 Loc: Chico CA
 
Lets calculate a good exposure, using an ND8 filter.
First, a normal mid-daylight exposure, full sun at ISO 100 would be:
1/100-sec at f/16 = 1/50-sec at f/22 = 1/25-sec at f/32.

According to:
FAQ: Neutral Density (ND) Filters for Time Exposures
http://www.uglyhedgehog.com/t-26501-1.html
ND8 = 3-stop difference = 12.5% transmission (reduces light to 1/8)

Adding a ND8 (3-stop difference) = 1/3-sec at f/32 for normal exposure. Any shutter duration longer than 1/3-sec at f/32 will result in over-exposure.

I suggest adding more ND, or adding a Circular Polarizing Filter (CPF) to further reduce light striking sensor. Later in day, or earlier in morning will also further reduce light.

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Oct 28, 2012 20:07:53   #
energizerdel
 
Nikonian72 wrote:
Lets calculate a good exposure, using an ND8 filter.
First, a normal mid-daylight exposure, full sun at ISO 100 would be:
1/100-sec at f/16 = 1/50-sec at f/22 = 1/25-sec at f/32.

According to:
FAQ: Neutral Density (ND) Filters for Time Exposures
http://www.uglyhedgehog.com/t-26501-1.html
ND8 = 3-stop difference = 12.5% transmission (reduces light to 1/8)

Thanks for that info. Have had it at f/22 and I had wondered about adding a polorizing filter and also taking the photo later in the day.

Thanks too to everyone else who has posted. Posting a photo would be worthless - so overexposed, it's not funny, so far too much light is getting in.

Adding a ND8 (3-stop difference) = 1/3-sec at f/32 for normal exposure. Any shutter duration longer than 1/3-sec at f/32 will result in over-exposure.

I suggest adding more ND, or adding a Circular Polarizing Filter (CPF) to further reduce light striking sensor. Later in day, or earlier in morning will also further reduce light.
Lets calculate a good exposure, using an ND8 filte... (show quote)

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Oct 28, 2012 20:16:29   #
dirtpusher Loc: tulsa oklahoma
 
The longer exposer the more blurr. The longer you expose in shutter speed mode the more choked down or smaller the aperature will become trying to compensate for the longer exposer to gather proper light an controll the light. Trial an error best teacher an will remember it longer. Sometimes lol.

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Oct 28, 2012 20:44:33   #
Nikonian72 Loc: Chico CA
 
Nikon D5000 at ISO 100, Nikkor 18-55 zoom lens at 55-mm, 0.6-sec at f/36, overcast sky & moderately dense tree foliage.

Spring Creek ford in the Upper Tomichi Valley, Gunnison County, Colorado.
Spring Creek ford in the Upper Tomichi Valley, Gun...

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Oct 28, 2012 20:49:20   #
Nikonian72 Loc: Chico CA
 
energizerdel wrote:
Nikonian72 wrote:
Lets calculate a good exposure, using an ND8 filter.
First, a normal mid-daylight exposure, full sun at ISO 100 would be:
1/100-sec at f/16 = 1/50-sec at f/22 = 1/25-sec at f/32.
According to:
FAQ: Neutral Density (ND) Filters for Time Exposures
http://www.uglyhedgehog.com/t-26501-1.html
ND8 = 3-stop difference = 12.5% transmission (reduces light to 1/8)
Adding a ND8 (3-stop difference) = 1/3-sec at f/32 for normal exposure. Any shutter duration longer than 1/3-sec at f/32 will result in over-exposure.
I suggest adding more ND, or adding a Circular Polarizing Filter (CPF) to further reduce light striking sensor. Later in day, or earlier in morning will also further reduce light.
Lets calculate a good exposure, using an ND8 filte... (show quote)
Thanks for that info. Have had it at f/22 and I had wondered about adding a polarizing filter and also taking the photo later in the day.

Thanks too to everyone else who has posted. Posting a photo would be worthless - so overexposed, it's not funny, so far too much light is getting in.
quote=Nikonian72 Lets calculate a good exposure, ... (show quote)
You posted your reply in the middle of my answer. I fixed it here.

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Oct 29, 2012 01:16:55   #
picpiper Loc: California
 
Nikonian72 wrote:
Nikon D5000 at ISO 100, Nikkor 18-55 zoom lens at 55-mm, 0.6-sec at f/36, overcast sky & moderately dense tree foliage.


Thanks for the example and settings. Great pic :thumbup:

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Oct 29, 2012 05:32:37   #
I am PJ
 
energizerdel wrote:
I'm hoping someone here can help me. I like the effect that so many people have when they blur waterfalls, oceans etc, but have tried over and over without any success. I have a Canon 20D, have used a low ISO, small aperture, slow speed, etc etc - all the advice everyone gives, plus have used a ND8 filter and yet still can't get the effect and have no idea what I'm doing wrong. Photos are still coming out extremely over exposed. Any suggestions would be really appreciated. Thanks.


Hi,
It sounds to me like you are using a program mode. Switch to manual and underexpose by 2-4 stops with an ND 8.
Have fun!

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Oct 29, 2012 05:42:17   #
DaveHam Loc: Reading UK
 
Ideally you need to be using a filter for this and a tripod is essential. Use your camera metering to get the current exposure time at the aperture you intend to use before putting the filter on. Set the camera to manual exposure, put on the filter and adjust the exposure time to compensate for the filter (If you are putting on a .9 grad add three stops to the exposure time). Take the photo and check it out. You can adjust the exposure then to get the result that you want.
The important thing is to meter before adding the filter and then adjust manually to account for the filter.

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