Understood. I jumped to a unwarranted conclusion.

This is a 13X22 poster. All images were screen shots.

(Download)

Am I missing something? I do it with screen shots all the time.

Open screen shot in Photoshop, select area you want to keep and hit CROP.

I have found on some tripods the mounting screw is too long, bottoming out in the camera's threaded socket and preventing the bottom of the camera from fitting firmly onto the plate. I've had to cut off portions of the 1/4 " screw until at the camera came in good contact with the plate.

Did you view it during daylight?

Lake Balboa us a good guess. Cameron Burnett, the director, is located in Los Angeles. "The Bench" is covered on the IMDB website.

Maggots are still being used in the debridement of dead tissue in wounds.

Sure do, but they weren't in color back then.

Fourth of July Parade in Huntington Beach, California. Supposed to be the largest west of the Mississippi.

Very nice shots, Marsdad. Brings back memories. Was there any whale meat at the fish market? There was the last time we were there.

Castroville CA is the Artichoke Capitol of the World.

In 1954 my chemistry professor told the same story. Instead of a nuclear reactor, it was a oil refinery, and instead of an X, it was a $1 cork. There are no new jokes.

On my V600 at 300 dpi (no adjustments, Professional Mode) from the time I click "scan" to the time the image appears on my desktop is 26 seconds (by stopwatch). Changing slides (no alignment necessary since the frame does that for you) is another 15 seconds. That's over 300 slides an hour if you hustle. However, 300 dpi is the very minimum resolution recommended for scanning large items. For 35mm slides, I'd go much higher, at least 1200 dpi, especially if you're making large prints or showing them on a monitor. At 1200 dpi, the scan time was 2:15 or almost 100 slides per hour.

It is impossible to make a truly 3D movie out of 2D movie and to sell tickets for one is fraudulent. And I don’t think there were 3D movie cameras during WW1. For a true 3D effect you need two images photographed simultaneously from slightly different positions and displayed so each eye only sees one of the images. There is software to produce pseudo-3D images from 2D photos, but they just give me a headache and are not convincing.