After watching the youtube it is determined that the apply image and the use of channels and channel masks along with a blend mode is what is creating the image changes. The mask allows you to apply the change selectively (where the mask is white the change gets applied) Where the mask is black the change from the apply image is not applied. Painting with black on a white mask will block the change so what you want to do is make sure the mask is selected by actually paint on the image copy so you can see exactly where you are painting... Suggest you watch the video again as you probably missed something subtle which with photoshop is quite easy to do....

check your lens hood it sounds like it got turned so the pettles are not on top and bottom but out to the corners or sides...

in the import dialog box:

Treat JPEG Files Next To Raw Files As Separate Photos
For photographers who capture raw + JPEG photos on their cameras. Selecting this option imports the JPEG as a standalone photo. If selected, both the raw and the JPEG files are visible and can be edited in Lightroom Classic CC. If deselected, Lightroom Classic CC treats the duplicate JPEG as a sidecar file, and the raw file appears with the raw file extension and +jpg.

When shooting with flash (TTL) you are dealing with two exposures 1) an exposure for the ambient light and 2) the exposure of the flash-- (how much ambient light vs flash light is used). The amount of ambient is best controlled by the shutter (remember you have to stay under the sync speed usually 1/250 or less) and the amount of flash best controled by aperture. In reality all of the exposure triangle elements do effect the ambient

Mostly shutterspeed controls how much ambient is used this is because the flash duration is significantly shorter than the sync shutter speed which is usually 250 or under (flash durations will range from 1/4000 to 1/10000 or so. so by slowing down the shutter speed more ambient/natural light will be represented in the resulting picture.

So the best way to approach this use your camera meter to get a reading of the ambient light if you want to reduce the ambient light use faster shutterspeed up to the sync speed on your camera and then close down the aperture if shuterspeed is at max sync and make sure iso is set to the lowest value. To increase the amount of flash you can either raise flash exposure comp, FEC, (this is a separate setting from EC) to the + side or open up the aperture more. If the flash is causing hot spots or too bright you can lower Flash Exposure comp. In TTL mode the flash sends out signals which reflect off the subject and help control the power/duration of the flash. so measure your ambient exposure first, set your camera accordingly ensuring that the shutter is under the sync speed and then ttl and FEC should get you a well exposed shot. I often darken my ambient exposure (darkens the background) by setting my camera up to 3 stops underexposed and then letting the ttl do it's magic and fine tuning with FEC.

going back to LR6 from the subscription lightroom classic cc may not be possible as the catalog structure is updated in Lightroom classic cc... this happens automatically when installing it.. It will convert your old catalalog calling lrcat-2 (the old catalog is preserved but as you go forward adding images they will be in the new format and I am unaware of any way to convert the -2 catalog back to the lr 6 format. I suppose you can reconstruct using the images and the xmp files (that is if you check the option save metadata to file.

when I looked at the website it looked like the photography plan is going from $10 per month to $20 per month. I suspect this might be for new subscribers and the existing users are grand fathered at the $10/mo rate (this is the package that includes LR Classic CC, LR CC (mobile), and PS.. Do I have this straight???

thanks..

Lloyd

yes it does look like they are/ or have raised the price.. I have the photography plan- classic and it is still $10 per month.. It renews in 2019 so I will see what happens... Has anyone heard about the price going up? This is the first I've heard about it.. ENJOY your new camera.. I have a sony rx100 m3 and love it...have been tempted to upgrade but need to think about the tradeoffs extra lens length 24 - 200 vs 24-70 but at the expense of aperture compromises.. mine is f1.8 and f2.8 through the zoom range.. I think the VI drops to f4.5? Good luck to you!

so you just bought an $1100 pocket camera and complaining about a $10/mo fee for post processing software? Just sayin'//

A couple of points I want to emphasis... regarding your lights not firing.. most camera brands utilize optical signals to trigger and control the remote flashes. this often fails if there is not line of sight between the commander and the remote. What you want is wireless radio frequency triggers and remotes which are not subject to this restriction and will work about 100% of the time even if you are in another room behind a wall. The Flashpoint/Godox units are RF wireless and have painstakingly copied/included the ttl signals from optical into RF. so if you use TTL flash it will work the same as with the OEM equipment, except more reliably. Modeling lights are definitely a big help in setting the light positions as is a flash capable light meter (now the new ones even support HSS). You can easily measure and set the power of your remote flashes to the desired lighting ratios using the meter..

The ad200 has both a Fresnel head and a barebulb head (comes with both)

I too am a big fan of godox which is sold as flashpoint via adorama and amazon... many of the flashpoint units incorporate li-ion battery packs which will easily provide well over 500 full power flashes. The ad200 is about 3 times as powerful as a standard flash. the xplor 600 at 600 ws provides 3 times the ad200. They also have standard flashes with batteries of li-ion packs. Be careful when you chose and make sure you are getting the battery option you want (aa or li-ion), HSS is also an option available on most of the line and TTL vs straight manual is also an option. The TTL is camera brand dependent with most of the major manufacturers supported. All the flashes and strobes include remote built in receivers and you can buy one or 2 triggers to fire them off camera, wireless and also to control the individual unit power and zoom settings and or using TTL. the standard flash v860ii is their basic unit, the streaklight 360 is next and can be had with a superblast power pack and then there is the 600ws full battery powered strobes xplor 600 line.. Again make sure you are selecting the model within each that supports your camera brand, ttl or not, li=ion or standard aa cells, and HSS or not... Shop careful and you can also pick up attractive packages of lights, barn doors magnetic gels and softboxes, etc.

Look at asus gaming laptops

This is a really easy fix. You just need to right click on the highest level folder with a question mark and then navigate it to your new location and everything in and under that high level folder should resolve. In the future any changes, adds, deletions, moves etc should be done from within lightroom in the library module. Hope this helps

I think you left out the full frame a99ii. I have both an a99 and a99ii and love them both. I urge do hope they continue with the a mount, time will tell.

I have used Blurb via Lr a few years ago with very good results.. They have since added lay flat and additional paper choices. The lay flat option is only available with standard lay flat paper .... I would like to see the more upscale papers be available in the layflat option.... LR has recently upgraded the interface and now allows more manipulation to the standard templates (size of individual images can be infinitely adjusted by image... I have to say it sure is convenient and easy to use.