Definitely get very familiar with PhotoPills. It is your best friend when it comes to Astro-Photogaphy, be it the sun, moon, Milk Way. When - where, how. It will be the best $10.00 you ever spent. They have tons of on line support, guides, tutorials. You can even get it all right on your smart phone in the APP itself.

Kevin Adams does a Night Photogrpahy - Milky Way workshop every year at Cape Hatteras. Worth looking into.
Post processing your Milky Way shots is a big part of it. Again, Tons of stuff on it - in YouTube.
Enjoy - have fun.

Couldn't have said it better myself. Do your test of whatever lens you are going to use and find the sweet spot. Really don't think you will need to go to f22. Don't think you will like the results.

I use a Sharpie - fine point. Silver. Shows up well enough on a black background.
Never had any problem of it bleeding.

I can't add to much more than the other former DSLR or Canon users have said about the Olympus OMD E-MI-MII or other Olympus models have said. I had 3 Canon cameras and a boat load of lenses. I sold it all and got the Olympus camera and PRO lenses. Couldn't be happier. I don't think you will regret it. The MII is an incredible camera. No other camera on the market has the features that the OLY - has. It's not always about weight. Although if you take the weight and size of the equal DSLR lenses you will really appreciate the size and weight factor.

Go for it.

Others recommended Matt Kloskowski and Anthony Morganti. I have many of their tutorials. They are both very good. You might also look in Kelby-One. He has lots of tutorials. You pay a yearly subscription and you can take as many courses as you want in the one year period. Well worth it.

I would be leery of courses from NYIP - Signed up for a travel photography course, found it to be very lacking in content. Some modules were even taught by one instructors so, a 12 year old. Really - If I'm paying the price of a college level course I expect the instructor to at least be an adult. He was one of the other instructors sons. After I submitted a unit assignments, including photos, they were critiqued by an instructor. I asked for a reply from the critique and was told they don't do that. What a waste of money it was.

Luminar had upgraded to Luminar 3 (stand alone) then they came out with Luminar Flex which is a Plugin to Lightroom and Photo Shop - the Flex is one outstanding program.
Go for it.

I had a Canon APC - 70D canon and 5D - Full frame with all the different lenses. Sold the whole Canon system for the Olympus E-3-Mk II -
Wight was one consideration along with size, of both the camera and the lenses. Compare the MACRO lens for the Olympus to the Canon - world of difference is size and weight. Do that for any DSLR camera vs the Mirroless and you can easily see the difference.

But even more than that. Depending on what type of shooting your do, the Olympus offers more features than any other mirroless brand or DSLR camera. Nothing else on the market comes close to the Olympus. I also have a Sony A6000 - nice camera (my first mirroless) but it is not weatherproof. Olympus lenses and camera top the A6000 by a long shot.

Of all the Mirroless the Olympus OMD -E-M1-MK II - has more features than any of the other brands of mirroless, by far. Get the PRO lenses if your budget can afford it. The Sony A6000 is a good walk around camera, but it is not weatherproof like the Olympus.

I have both the Olympus and Sony. Sold all my Canon gear.

I love the Olympus. Fugi is OK - but doesn't do what Olympus can do.

This might help to understand the value of RAW images.

This comes from Daily Photo Tips:

Did you know that the file format you use can play a huge role in the overall quality of your images? Often overlooked, the way in which your photographs are recorded and stored can significantly affect the look of your final product.

Many novice photographers stick to JPEG formatting – however, professionals often opt to shoot RAW images. Why? Here are just a few reasons:
• Photographers can edit nondestructively with RAW file access. When editing a RAW file, you’re actually “writing” instructions on what adjustments should be made once the photograph is ready to be exported to a more manageable format. In other words, edits do not actually have an effect on the integrity of a RAW file, eliminating any fears of overwriting edits or losing access to an original image.

• RAW files have a larger tonal range as well as adjustable color space. RAW files simply capture more data than JPEGs. While an 8 bit JPEG retains 256 brightness levels, a 14 bit RAW file can retain up to 16,384 brightness levels, resulting in smoother tonal transitions. Because of the extra information the file format contains, it’s easy to make adjustments to details like white balance quickly and efficiently.

• More detail = higher quality prints. One of the major downsides of shooting RAW is the format’s massive file size. However, this allows for larger, in depth prints later down the road.

• With RAW files, photographers can restore details that might otherwise be lost. If you have a tendency to over or underexpose images, it’s possible to recover details from RAW files that might otherwise have been lost in a JPEGs limited tonal gamut.

• RAW files allow users to maintain complete control over the appearance of their images. When shooting JPEGs, the camera automatically processes image files on its own. You know better than the camera what adjustments you’d like to make to an image, and your computer’s processing capabilities far surpass those of your camera.

Adobe has two products that can handle processing RAW images:
• Lightroom allows users to import many RAW images at once, then make live edits using the Develop module. The software also allows presets that will automatically make predetermined adjustments with the single click of a button.

Photoshop allows for more in depth edits for individual photographs. Using adjustment layers to exemplify tonality, sharpness, and color, photographers can make precise changes to perfect their images.

Take a look at Creative Live - and check out an outstanding instructor by the name of John Greengo.
He does offer a very comprehensive video courese onthe Nikon 5600. An it is on sale for $17.00
Here is the link: https://www.creativelive.com/class/nikon-d5600-fast-start-john-greengo?via=site-header_0

I think you will find this very helpful. Take it one video at a time. Watch it with your camera in hand.

Recently someone posted on help taking pet photos. A lot of good advice was given. I tried to find that post but of no avail.
I ran across this web page that had some good advice so I thought I would pass it on.

https://www.picturecorrect.com/tips/top-10-dog-photography-tips/

I have the Small version and have not used it yet. That, being said. I have seen a lot of tutorials and the instructor was using the WACOM tablet exclusively and really liking it. It does have a learning curve just like any device or piece of software. I attended a workshop and one of the fellows has one and just loves it. Matter of fact he has the large WACOM with the screen -wooo. He was doing a demo- with a mouse and keyboard shortcuts and was really having a hard time. So- its what you get use to. I just need to take the time to learn the WACOM - Those that really use is - really like it. Therefore, don't give up so soon.

I have used Shutterbug myself. You can catch a sale and save some $$$

Have not attended any of his courses, but have had some of his books. In my opinion, his babbles on way too much and doesn't get the point. I don't have that much time to waste to sift through babble.
I either sold what books I had of his on AMAZON or just trashed them.
Too many other really good photography writers out there.