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Posts for: dave sproul
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Mar 10, 2014 09:56:52   #
Howard5252 wrote:
The bird was flying over a small lake, looking for fish. The flight path brought the hawk directly over me. It happened fairly quickly and I didn't have time to zoom out. Taken with Nikon D7000 and a Nikkor 70~200 with a 2X telextender reading 350mm. At first I was disappointed that the whole bird was not in the frame (picture 1) but as I looked I decided to radically crop and I think it worked (picture 2).


Nice as they are. I would have liked to download them to get a better view though.
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Mar 8, 2014 15:52:14   #
Thank you every one for your comments. It helps to have feedback.
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Mar 8, 2014 15:51:54   #
Thank you erery one for your comments. It helps to have feedback.
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Mar 7, 2014 00:35:05   #
Thank you for the process information
Turbo wrote:
***********************************

I used CS6 for adding material :

1. Re-crop and add a few % space.
2. Select the new ( blank) space using the magic wand.
3. Click on SELECT>MODIFY>EXPAND
4. Click on , say 20 pixel ( depending on the size of the original pic)
5. Click on : DELETE ( from your keyboard)
6. Click on: CONTENT AWARE
7. Click OK and enjoy the new filled area.

Modify as needed.

Then I re-opened the pic and used the RAW converter to sharpen and denoise a bit.
*********************************** br br I used ... (show quote)
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Mar 6, 2014 15:20:48   #
Ok by me.
Would you also provide the general approach to fixing it?

Thanks



Turbo wrote:
Very nice and clear !

The first one has a piece of wing missing a bit. It is easy to fix in Photoshop.

If you like I can post the fix.
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Mar 5, 2014 10:13:43   #
I am now in Tucson for a couple of months and sitting in an easy chair drinking a double malt Scotch the other night, I have decided to try to develop some BIF photography skills.

I went to go over to the Sonoran Desert Museum (SDM) to try and develop these skills. The SDM provides a target rich environment during the rapture fly demonstrations, which occurs twice a day, at 1000 & 1400.

Before going I read several posts on this site and to those of you that provided the information — thank you. It was very helpful. Without this information I probably would not have even more rejects.

I used a D5100 set basically as follows: Aperture priority f/8, ISO 800 which made for a shutter speed of approx. 1/3200 or 1/4000, spot metering.

Of the many, many photographs taken over 4 sessions at SDM (most which were of empty blue skies, of a bird heads or tails sticking in from the sides of the frames, of dark out-of-focus globs in the sky, etc..) the following are the only two I have nerve enough to post. These are of birds taking off. What fun.

Again, I want to thank those that posted information on this tread.


(Download)


(Download)
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Mar 3, 2014 08:39:58   #
We, the USA as a nation, have only been around been around for a couple of hundred years; where as several other nations have been around for many more years and some others are just starting.

It also seems that the various paths, meandering, and pathologies that humans experience during their lives; nations seem to, in some part, experience.

Applying an analogy of national maturity to human maturity lead me to the following:

IF you equate the national timelines to the timelines of a human life, THEN it seems the USA is still in the adolescent stage of life where some nations have made it to a more mature stage and other nations are in their infancy.

Just a thought and this idea is not totally flushed out, but maybe it will provide some food for thought and dialog.
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Feb 10, 2014 10:34:38   #
First, I skimmed this ranting; and then I had to read it to see if I got it right the first time through. I now am compelled to respond because If I don't then as an old Colonel once told me "if you do not speak up about what you do not agree with, then it is assumed you do agree".


This appears to be the "cherry picking" of the truth and half truths to provide a base to extrapolate from in order to develop a sense of unjustified fear in, or to justify and reinforce the fear of, those individuals that are already prone to believe this type of paranoid ranting.

It is sad that there are so many of these individuals that buy into this type of ranting.
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Jan 25, 2014 09:36:29   #
smiling
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Jan 16, 2014 08:37:28   #
no sides -- i just like the humor
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Jan 16, 2014 08:32:39   #
thanks
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Jan 3, 2014 11:43:28   #
sarge69 wrote:
New Years Resolution for 2014

Sarge69


Well said. If only more individuals had some military background, training, perspective, and understanding.
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Dec 30, 2013 09:30:57   #
llouie wrote:
Went to Zoo Lights in Phoenix AZ. Shooting with a Nikon D300 and 18-270mm Tamron Lens shot with different Apertures and Shutter Speeds and with Flash. My pictures were either too dark or too light(with flash) or blurred.
Did not bring my Tripod. What could I have done different?


You may want to check out something like Bryan Peterson's publication "Understanding Flash Photography".

Good luck on your quest.
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Dec 21, 2013 11:20:30   #
donmabry wrote:
i'm getting a little tired of messing with screw-in filters and would like to try the Cokin filter system. I'd never even seen one until a couple days ago so, all I know is what I've been able to read during that short time. Needless to say, I need a lot of help and have a lot of questions. Am I correct in thinking that the "Series" designation has to do with the size of the filter holder? Is it true that, when they talk about the 'P Series', they're talking about the size of the holder? My only real concern is whether or not the P Series will fit my Nikon 7100 without any problems. Do they possibly make a polarizer for the Cokin system (in the P Series)? It seems it would be impossible to make a round object (the filter) fit in a rectangular opening and still expect it to rotate. But, maybe it's possible to do that. The only others I'm interested in right now are the ND filters. If a polarizer is available, can you stack it and the ND filter in the holder and use them together? Can anyone recommend a good source for purchasing the filters. I see a lot of copy-cat filters on places such as Amazon but, I'm having trouble finding a good source for the Cokin filters. Can you use some sort of step-down adapter so that the same holder will fit different lenses (assuming your holder is one to fit your largest size lens)? I'll stop with my questions for now but, I would appreciate any other thoughts/advice that anyone would care to give regarding what I'm trying to do. Obviously, I know very little about this so, I welcome any comments you may have.
i'm getting a little tired of messing with screw-i... (show quote)


##################
Background:

I had the same issue with filters as you described.

I had a Cokin adapter and Graduated Neutral Density filters left over from film days, which I like and use. I did not have any other type of filters for the Cokin.

I have also had bought a couple of regular (screw in type) filters for my digital camera.

Discussion:

I bought a Cokin lens adaptor for my new digital camera so I could use the GND filters I had, but I still had to do all the screwing and unscrewing to use the regular filters and to change to the cork in GND filter. I like the regular filters because I believe they are less bulky.

My solution was the XUME Quick Release Adaptor system, which I first heard about on this site. This is a set of magnetic rings that screw into the filters and Corkin adaptor and the end of the lens.

To change filters it is just a pull and replace with the desired filter (no screwing). I also bought a magnetic ring for my lens cap so I could use it. I found that based on the old habit of squeezing the lens cap release mechanism when taking the lens cap off and on, it was best to apply a little silicon glue to the lens cap and it’s associated ring. This keeps the lens cap ring attached to the lens cap even when I squeeze (and I still do) the lens cap release mechanism.

The cast associated with the cork in filters I handle in post processing

You may want to look into this solution and see if it will work for you.
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Dec 14, 2013 11:47:33   #
Thank you for the information. It gave me something to try.

Fstop12 wrote:
I'm using Photoshop CS6. I always start with what I think will be the easiest/quickest solution. There are a gazillon different ways to do something in PS all arriving at the same outcome.

On this image the first thing was try a luminosity mask selection from the BLUE Channel and then using that to put a curves adjustment layer in the layer's pallet. I tried adjusting the curve to see if I could tone down the highlights. This didn't work.NOTE: hard to adjust pixels that just aren't there.

Plan B: made a selection around the blown out area and tried Content Aware Fill. I didn't like this.

Plan C: I tried the Color Clone technique: 1. I create a new transparent layer above the background layer and up on the tool bar I change the mode to " Color". Next, I get my dropper tool and click on the color of the sky I want to use to paint in the blown highlights. Make sure that the color you choose is showing in the "Foreground" box on your tool pallet. Now I Choose the "Brush" tool, Using a Very SOFT brush I lower the opacity to around 15-20% and start painting in over the highlights. Each pass of your brush lays down more paint. You can adjust the Opacity on the layer to taste.

Plan D: I make selections around parts of the image, in this case the areas of the clouds I like. Once the marching ants are showing the selections I right click and choose the "Feather" option and give it a 2 pixel feather. Now CTRL-J to put it up on it's own layer. Next get your move tool and lay this over the blown highlights. It most likely will be too strong so back off on the opactiy. Use the Eraser tool with a very soft brush and low opacity to erase/blend in the area.
It's a work in progress. Hope I haven't babbled on too long.
I'm using Photoshop CS6. I always start with what ... (show quote)
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