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Nov 22, 2019 13:43:02   #
dmeyer wrote:
Per your suggestion I called Adobe and learned that I am, indeed, able to remove LR6 from my current computer and then re-install in a new computer. That's a huge relief...just need to be sure I can move the catalogs and editing histories. Didn't go so well for Elements 10--Adobe said it was too outdated to run properly on newer computers. But I can upgrade to a newer version for less cost than an new purchase.

Thank you for steering me in the right direction, legion3!


I wouldn't believe Adobe that PSE 10 will not run. Get the source, load it and use your install keys. Should work. If not , windows has several "compatibility modes " that almost certainly will work. There are few design reasons that PSE 10 won't work on windows 10.
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Nov 22, 2019 13:37:20   #
Pistnbroke wrote:
Take the hard drive out and put it in a caddy ...connects via USB then you can access all your old files and programmes


Sorry, this will only work for accessing data. It will not work for running most software. This is because of the faulty design of the windows OS.
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Nov 20, 2019 12:04:51   #
SalvageDiver wrote:
Aren't engineers and computer scientists human?


Oh, NO. Please don't open up that "can of worms" ! :-)
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Nov 20, 2019 09:15:23   #
steveg48 wrote:
Disagree with SOOC. Raw is not SOOC as raw is just data, not an image. What you see on your editing screen is the default rendering of your raw processor.


I agree with your response. I think this topic has been often discussed, but it seems like most people misunderstand what "SOOC" really is. "SOOC" (meaning RAW) is NOT a picture. It is just digital data that can be interpreted to display a picture.
If you take an image format file, such as "JPG", there is a specific JPEG standard that specifies a codec. This defines how the image is compressed into a stream of bytes and decompressed back into an image. This means that whatever software you use to display the picture (from the saved JPG file) should essentially produce the same image.
This is NOT true of the image produced from the RAW data. RAW data just contains all (or most) of the information (really just photon counts) that the camera captured. There are NO common standards for converting these counts into a picture. Every manufacture captures data differently, and within each Manufacture you will have different results depending upon what software you choose to translate the photon count into what we see as a picture. To this is added at least another layer of "manipulation" that is impossible to escape. When using any software that takes RAW data and translates the photon count into a picture, many decisions need to be made. Since there is NO universal standard for RAW, this software needs to be "told" what translation parameters to use regarding such things as color translation and exposure. An example of this would be using the Lightroom Develop module to control exposure from a RAW file.
End result is that ALL pictures produced from a digital camera INCLUDING RAW are manipulated to some degree. So, SOOC in the form of a picture really does not exist.
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Oct 11, 2019 10:54:50   #
Sharpening with Lightroom is at best poor. If you want to properly sharpen a photo, use Photoshop. If I have a picture that I just want to use as a "snapshot", I do use Lightroom, but if it is a picture that I want to enlarge, I often go to Photoshop. The sharpening in Lightroom if extremely crude. There are many tutorials for using sharpening in Photoshop and it can get rather complicated, but it will do a much better job. Bottom line, if you are using sharpening in LR and like the result, that is great. But, if you do not like the result, it is likely that PS will do a much better job.
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Sep 7, 2019 14:31:14   #
Yes, lots of well meaning but incorrect information out there. I like your summary
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Jul 31, 2019 11:29:00   #
I also have "Secrets To Exposure And Metering For Nikon Copyright 2019 Steve Perry". If you have one of his books, then you know they are very informative, as are his short Youtube videos. Thom Hogan's book is over 900 pages long and covers some of the same items, but covers most every function of the D750 and has far more information on many other topics, so it is in no way a duplicate of what Perry covers. Where topics overlap, both (Thom & Steve) explanations are useful , a little different and well done.
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Jul 30, 2019 11:18:37   #
droszel wrote:
Them Hogan is an excellent resource for Nikon camera manuals.
www.bythom.com I believe is his web site


I have several of Thom Hogan's books. Also the one for the D750. (I own a D750.great camera). I find his books and information and explanations to be excellent. Many other books, just re-explain the nikon manual. He gives you lots of additional information, and most importantly tells you where Nikon has problems. He doesn't just promote Nikon when there are issues, but explains them an suggests options. (The D750 is a good camera, but of course no camera is perfect).
Steve Perry also has some good information and great explanations, but on a smaller subset of things. I highly recommend getting both of their books. You will not be disappointed
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Jul 3, 2019 14:43:05   #
Thanks everyone for your input. I appreciate the information.
Joe
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Jul 1, 2019 10:33:32   #
I am looking for a case for my NIKKOR 200-500mm. The case will mostly be for storage & transportation, but I will sometimes use it for carrying the lens while hiking. (yes, I know it is big :-)

I have looked at several cases and narrowed it down to two cases. 1. Tamrac Arc Long Zoom Lens Case model T0337-1919 or 2. Lowepro Lens Case model LP36307. There are plenty of reviews for the Lowepro case, but virtually no reviews for the Tamrac case, probably because it is a relatively new case. So, I would really appreciate it if anyone has that case and can give me some input. BTW, I am not adverse to getting a different case, but these 2 seemed to be good choices. Both companies make quality products & I have owned bags from both.
Unfortunately, the closest store that carries the Tamrac case is about 100 miles away from me, so it is not practical for me to look at them in person. Any help in comparing these cases is appreciated.
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Jun 18, 2019 10:01:32   #
James Van Ells wrote:
The biggest issue is the narciss sticks that folks use. They back up just a bit more to get that last part in the image.... and fall off the cliff. Darwin award winners all.


Yes, I've seen some people do some really dangerous things, just for a selfie.
Just Google " death by selfe"

https://www.npr.org/2019/05/06/720800572/hundreds-have-died-in-selfie-related-deaths-since-2011
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May 20, 2019 09:32:08   #
67.8% of what you see online has little basis in fact.....
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May 11, 2019 09:52:01   #
I have seen people with tripods boarding. A few months ago, I specifically asked a TSA agent about the policy. He said Tripods are ok. But, I have not actually carried one on. That doesn't mean that some over zealous TSA agent won't stop you...I always put it in checked luggage. Seems more convenient, because a large tripod is a pia to have in plane
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May 4, 2019 18:50:18   #
russelray wrote:
In April 2017, when I was preparing to move (for the last time in my life; my next move will be in a hearse), I was looking for a way to enjoy a few billion pictures in the new home and in my retirement years. I would up buying a Samsung 65" smart TV for the living room; 48" smart TVs for the four bedrooms, dining room, garage, and covered patio; 36" smart TVs for the three bathrooms, kitchen, catio, and laundry room. I bought 64 GB flash drives for all of them, copied various files to them (fauna, flora, trains, cars, planes, aquariums, zoos, places), plugged them in, turned the TVs on, and they play 24 hours a day, 7 days a week. Pictures are set to rotate in chronological order with at 15 seconds per picture. Much better than watching television!
In April 2017, when I was preparing to move (for t... (show quote)


What software are you using? Or is the picture display feature now standard on most TVs?
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May 4, 2019 18:46:56   #
CHG_CANON wrote:
1. Yes, <auto> is a good starting point
2. No, the WB is determined by the camera, either via a AUTO-WB setting or something the photographer (you) set when capturing the image. There's nothing about the JPEG format that impacts the WB of the image that is different than any other image file format.
3. I use an older version of LR. I've seen comments that Adobe has improved the intelligence of <Auto> vs older versions. A subscription user would need to comment.

Regarding an edit workflow. Personally, I import all my RAW images into LR and the apply Develop Presets I have developed that accomplish:

a. Apply the lens profile for the lens version used.
b. Set the camera profile to Camera Standard.
c. Apply ISO-specific noise and sharpening values I've developed for my individual cameras.
d. Apply default values of Clarity, Luminance and Saturation I've developed for my individual cameras.
e. Trigger Auto WB and Auto Develop.

Before editing, I try to remember to add keywords and move all images to a collection in my library. This can be done later, but I've found it best to do this admin work up-front.

I then begin editing images individually, with the images sorted by capture time. Given I have a string of images, they’ll typically be from the same lighting situations. I edit the first to my desire, moving / correcting the individual sliders on the first image. LR's <auto> is what might be called a "disaster" relative to both the original and the final version. But, the ideas of what to correct are useful, many times giving ideas I would not have considered by myself.

When I finish editing the first image, I then use the ‘power’ of LR by syncing the settings from the first edit across the next similar images. Sometimes, they’re all good or they require individual, but minor, addition tweaks. Sometimes, I sync those additional edits back across all the images, other times the images remain unique. It does depend.

"Syncing" is done by selecting multiple images from the film role in Develop, or the Grid in Library via Sync Settings. You can uncheck all and then select just WB and Exposure, or whatever specific setting to sync. So whether you start from Auto or just the imported version, the power of LR is the syncing function across similar images where every image doesn't have to be edited from scratch.

As you edit, use the backslash "\" and flip back n forth from the original to the current status of your edits. Sometimes the history panel is useful as I have at least three points of reference: initial import, application of the preset triggering the auto develop and auto WB, and the current status of the editing.

Use utube videos or your books for examples and explanations for each slider. As <Auto> doesn’t touch Clarity, Vibrance and Saturation, my presets apply values for these sliders.

I first get the "basic" edits of the exposure and White Balance completed, then give a second pass for cropping, cloning or anything more complex. I also tweak noise and / or sharpen and sync these refinements across similar images, using the syncing function and updating the parameters being synced to just these settings.

I use the image compare tool throughout the process to identify and discard duplicate or inferior images, setting them to rejected and removing from the edit session. If I do my work from within a LR collection, I can periodically filter by rejected images and remove the rejects from the collection without impacting their status in the Library. At the end of the session, I delete all rejected images, both from the catalog and from disk.

Regarding my (a) to (e) preset actions, you can do these manually in-mass from the Library module as well. Use your Metadata filters to identify and isolate images by cameras and / or lens models. You'll then update one image with the lens profile and camera profile (Camera Standard or other) and sync those settings across all images from the same camera and lens.
1. Yes, <auto> is a good starting point br 2... (show quote)




From your comment it seems there is a way to apply "auto" on import. I have been trying to figure out how to do that. Please explain.
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