fetzler wrote:
Deoxit is a great product. It cleans and lubricates. I use for a variety of electrical tasks as it maintains electrical conductivity. As this is a photography forum- do not use this for camera/lens contacts. Deoxit is oil based may put oil in the camera body with numerous bad effects.
Does Home Depot or Lowe's Sell this Material that You're Talking About or Where else can you Purchase it at?
74images
I'm one of those 'really old people' you mention, having begun my interest in photography in 1946 when it looked like a quick and easy Merit Badge to advance my Boy Scout rank. In those ancient times Kodak was the only game in small-town New England. 35mm film cans had 'KODAK' embossed on the side and were all painted yellow ("Kodak Yellow", a patented color I later learned) and cap color identified the film therein. As I recall, and I wouldn't want to swear to this, Panatomic X had a gray cap; Plus X, brown; Super XX, green. Kodachrome (ASA 10 !) was red and Ektachrome, blue. At some point Kodak stopped painting the cans, but the cap coding remained until everything went plastic.
I've used lemon juice on a q-tip with success.
lamiaceae wrote:
Did anyone here follow the link? Yes, there seems to be a problem with Duracell Brand Batteries lately.
Do you mind reposting the link you are referring to? I missed it somehow. Much appreciated 😊
TriX
Loc: Raleigh, NC
Agree. If you need an electrically conductive lubricant, there are contact cleaners that contain conductive lubricants, but they are really for use on noisey potentiometers/variable resistors. The battery contacts are plated, and unless the plating is destroyed or damaged, no further protection should be necessary as long as you clean off all the original residue and don't use any more leaking batteries 🤗.
TriX
Loc: Raleigh, NC
74images wrote:
Does Home Depot or Lowe's Sell this Material that You're Talking About or Where else can you Purchase it at?
74images
You can order it from Parts Express, which is a great supplier for DIY electronic parts and supplies. Lowes /Home Depot often have a deoxidizer/protector specifically designed for connections using large gauge aluminum wire, but I don't know how effective it is for other metals.
Boney
Loc: Huntington Beach
Send the damaged device to the battery company. If the date on the battery is within its expiration time they will repair or replace your equipment.
I sent a set of Bose headphones, $300, because a single bad copper top AAA battery leaked. They said the battery date was past but they still sent me a check for $200 and I bought a new set from Craig's list for $200.
As for electronic flashes I have switched to using the Lithium primary cells. Haven't had one of those go yet. The Eneloops may also be a good choice.
boberic
Loc: Quiet Corner, Connecticut. Ex long Islander
Flash Falasca wrote:
What is a film container ??
An ancient relic from the cave man days.
It's what 35mm film comes in!
James R wrote:
-------------------
Thank You for that..... And ACETIC is what I did wish to type... Often is the time in my haste - and the "spellcheck" Not in sync with each other.
-0-
Are you claiming your spellcheck makes miss steaks??😜😜😜
cthahn wrote:
pushed Varta batteries, the oldest battery in the world
In 2002, the consumer battery activities (excluding button cells) were sold to Rayovac. The automotive battery business was acquired by Johnson Controls.
The underlying problem is that the battery compounds will corrode the plating on the battery compartment springs and contacts. When this happens, further corrosion from any moisture will bring more corrosion on the contacts. Electrical contact cleaner/protector will clean and help prevent further corrosion, but keep a watchful eye on the contacts- they will never be the same.
BHC
Loc: Strawberry Valley, JF, USA
RonLR wrote:
The underlying problem is that the battery compounds will corrode the plating on the battery compartment springs and contacts. When this happens, further corrosion from any moisture will bring more corrosion on the contacts. Electrical contact cleaner/protector will clean and help prevent further corrosion, but keep a watchful eye on the contacts- they will never be the same.
Oh, so true! How much more then will they be damaged by abrasion with a pencil eraser?
JCam
Loc: MD Eastern Shore
mas24 wrote:
You're the third person I have read a post on this problem. It happened to me with a flashlight. You can dampen a cloth or Q-tip with white clear vinegar, and wipe clean the corrosion. On my flashlight, I mildly soaked a small rag with baking soda and water, and ran it through the flashlight battery tunnel. It worked. Others may have better methods. Good luck.
Vinegar is an acid itself and fairly aggressive! Make sure you get it all out; you might try a solution of baking soda and water first; it's a base solution, not acid, so won't continue to eat or otherwise crud up the contacts.
Good Luck!
BHC
Loc: Strawberry Valley, JF, USA
JCam wrote:
Vinegar is an acid itself and fairly aggressive! Make sure you get it all out; you might try a solution of baking soda and water first; it's a base solution, not acid, so won't continue to eat or otherwise crud up the contacts.
Good Luck!
Now you've aroused my curiosity. If a base or alkaline solution will be less corrosive than an acid solution, why do degraded alkaline batteries cause such damage? Also, why would you clean the damage done by an alkaline battery with an alkaline solution? Also, I would not call 5% to be a strong solution, but it can be further diluted with water (preferably distilled water to exclude the impurities of tap water).
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