OddJobber wrote:
Back focus bad.
Back button focus good.
OddJobber is probably right... I bet the fellow photographer said "back button focus", not "back focus"... they are very different things.
Back Button Focus (BBF) is a popular sports/action shooting method. It puts the user more in control of when and where the camera focuses. It's mostly used in conjunction with a continuous focusing mode. In fact, BBF allows one to make that their default focus mode and use it for almost anything, which you wouldn't want to do without BBF for several reasons (For example, without BBF a continuous focus mode will cause focus errors if using a "focus, lock and recompose" technique).
All that aside, for fast moving subjects such as you describe, in addition to good techniques and some skill using them, you also need fast focusing and tracking camera and lens. I am not personally familiar with either your camera or lens... However, I have used other Tamron lenses and unless yours is a "USD" model, it probably can't focus and track movement fast enough to keep up with rapidly darting birds in flight. That's a quite challenging subject that even the very best of lenses and cameras will struggle to maintain in focus!
There are other things you can do. I'd suggest setting a rather small aperture to increase depth of field, which makes focus accuracy less critical (but will not blur down busy backgrounds as strongly). Watch that you have a fast enough shutter speed to freeze movement (probably about 1/500 minimum... 1/1000 would be better... unless you actually want motion blur effect, then slower shutter speeds might be used). Pre-focus at a specific distance and then watch for subjects to come within that range and trip the shutter when they do.
Also set your camera on continuous drive, taking bursts of shots to improve your odds that at least one image in each burst will be both in focus and well-composed. Then work at it and take a lot of shots... since you'll have lots of misses and will likely get better with practice.
BBF works just fine with non-continuous focusing modes too... where once focus is achieved it stops and locks.... which is generally only usable with stationary subjects. But the key advantage for sports/action/wildlife photography is that it allows one to use continuous focus mode most of the time... so that one is ready to deal immediately with subjects that are moving or stationary, regardless if they stop or start moving or just continuously do so. Another thing BBF allows you to do is "dodge" obstructions that come between you and a moving subject momentarily.
I've been shooting with various Canon cameras and lenses for over 15 years, film first, and digital since around 2004. I learned BBF with my EOS-3 cameras not long after starting to use them and have employed it nearly all the time on every model I've used since. Actually now about the only time I ever turn it off (to let the camera focus "normally", with half-press of the shutter release button) is when I am loaning the camera to someone who isn't familiar with BBF, unwilling to give it a try and learn to use it. Overall, BBF puts me more in charge of the camera... sort of feels like manual focus control, but with the speed and accuracy of autofocus (which is better in today's cameras than I ever was manually, even tho I was darned good, if I may say so myself).
Give BBF a try with your camera and lens(es)... Don't expect it to solve every problem, though. It takes some practice... plus there are other considerations that effect focus accuracy and additional techniques that might be needed, depending upon the particular situation.