mundy-F2 Loc: Chicago suburban area

Thanks for asking. I am also interested in some good advice on slide film copying,
Thanks in advance.
Mundy

mundy-F2 Loc: Chicago suburban area

Thank you!
Mundy

mundy-F2 Loc: Chicago suburban area

Thank you!
Mundy

mundy-F2 Loc: Chicago suburban area

Thank you!
Mundy

mundy-F2 Loc: Chicago suburban area

[quote=Thomas902]"what is +90 CRI"
flyfisher (CRI) is Color Rendering Index which is the measurement of how colors look under a light source when compared with sunlight. ... Lights with a CRI that is measured greater than 90 are generally considered “High CRI” lights... Meaning this illumination source is very close to "Daylight" which is what you need for "Daylight" balanced film... i.e. Kodachromes 25; 64; etc.

Ordinary "Garden" variety lights are typically lacking in a full spectrum of color wavelengths...[/quote

Thanks for the information. Most of my slides are Kodachrome 25 and 64.
Mundy

burkphoto Loc: High Point, NC

Basically, you have choices if you *don't* use a device that has a fixed position of the holder relative to the lens.

My setup uses a copy stand with adjustable column, a camera with macro lens, a film holder, and a light source. So long as my film holder holds the size slide or negative I want to copy, I can raise and lower the camera to compensate for film size.

In the case of a 127 super slide, I could raise the camera to get the whole slide in the frame, or lower it to crop a portion of the frame. In many cases, I would choose to crop the original.

My camera is Micro 4/3, and the full sensor area has a 4:3 aspect ratio. I can capture any size from 17.3mm by 13mm (1:1) up to 6x9 cm 120/220 format. A 1:1 macro lens on Micro 4/3 can capture about a quarter of a 35mm slide! So I have a LOT of freedom to crop larger films.

burkphoto Loc: High Point, NC

Film cleaning approach, in order of effectiveness:

>Rocket Blower Bulb (This will knock off surface dust)

>Canned Air (This will knock off surface dust but harms the environment)

>StaticMaster Brush (This removes static charges from film with a Polonium strip and then brushes away dust... the MOST effective solution for removing surface dust) (EXPENSIVE)

>Ilford Antistaticum Cloth (For tougher surface stuff — wipe VERY gently)

>Photosol PEC-12 Film Cleaner (PEC-12® is a waterless Photographic Emulsion Cleaner, suitable for use on most film and print emulsions. It is a blend of organic hydrocarbon solvents with a neutral pH and is free from chlorofluorocarbons and chlorinated hydrocarbons. It dries instantly, leaves no residue and meets archival needs. Because it contains no water, PEC-12® will not cause emulsion swelling, tackiness, water marks or other damage associated with re-washing.

PEC-12® is designed to remove non-water based stains, grease and inks from photographic emulsions and bases. It removes finger oils, grease pencil, adhesive tape residues, mildew, smoke and soot damage, gold foil stamp and most ball-point and permanent inks. It will aid in the removal of firmly affixed adhesive tape.

>Re-washing techniques (Requires knowledge of the original process. May require a stabilizer solution and/or Photo-Flo wetting agent)

Beyond the Antistaticum and gentle wiping, or PEC-12 and gentle wiping, you may need to just resort to spotting and repair in Photoshop. Any method that involves touching or wiping the film should be done with extreme caution.

I handle film with lint-free cloth gloves. My favorite tools are the Rocket Blower Bulb, a 1" StaticMaster with fresh cartridge, and PEC-12.

I took great pains when processing film to keep my negatives clean. I used fresh fixer, Heico Perma-Wash, fast moving water washes, and Photo-Flo, and dried film on a clothesline hung in a bathtub shower stall with no moving air. So even my 50+ year old B&W film is in pretty good shape. Unfortunately, some of my slides were stored in vinyl album pages for a time. They show some signs of PVC gas damage. I learned to use Polypropylene pages...

mundy-F2 Loc: Chicago suburban area

Hi,
You bring some good points to the table. I shoot both 135 and 120, so I need to allow for both formats, so your information helps me. I am currently not doing any 4x4 larger format, but I styill want yo keep this option now since I am retired. I still have several larger negatives. I am receiving good advice from you and others. Thank you for the time spent on your reply.
Mundy

mundy-F2 Loc: Chicago suburban area

Another informative reply and thank you. I will review your procedure and take a look at the StaticMaster and PEC-12. My old box of lint free gloves need to be tossed. This weekend I hope to drag out some of my boxes of dartkroom supplies and see what I need. I just moved recently, so I have boxes and more boxes.. I did a fair job on storing my film negatives and slides, so they are in good shape, at least what I have reviewed.
Thanks again.
Mundy.

Boney Loc: Huntington Beach

Hello FlyFisher, I have been in your position and have gone through several of the processes that have been recommended. I am 81 and have several thousand slides, then a few years ago my parents passed and I inherited all of their slides and pictures. My father had thousands of slides also. So without thought I proceded to start copying them using an Epson flatbed scanner. After doing just a few I realized that I would be copying slides until my time to leave the planet. Coincidentally friend of mine was going through the same thing. So I thought about this whole issue. What am I going to do with all these copied pictures? Pass them down through the family. Well it turns out that there is very little interest by the family to have these pictures. So after considering all things I decided that I would only copy those pictures with family in them and any with very unique makeup. Those great shots of the Eiffel tower could be dumped since I can get great copy of things like that. Same for the Grand Canyon and so on.
So I looked around for something that would do the job but much faster than using up the life of my flatbed scanner. I ended up buying a cheap slide scanner. Costco was selling them at the time for around $70. It was copier made by Wolverine. This type has a full frame imager, like a camera to capture the copy. It is not scanned, but rather photographed. So I bought it. With this device one can copy a slide every few seconds. The quality was acceptable. In fact if I compared it to the high resolution scanner copies, they were darned good.
So now I am able to make copies of the pictures that possibly might have some interest to my progeny and not consume the life of my flatbed scanner. If I run into any of those wonderful shots, I will simply keep the slide and do whatever in the future with it.
We all have different circumstances. If you are 21 then maybe you want all of those slide copies for the next 70 years. But if you are getting along in life then take a more pragmatic approach. When I finish with my task I will have the pictures digitized plus a collection of really interesting slides. Remember just keeping the slides do not take up much room. I just located acid free cardboard boxes to store slides out of the slide trays so they don't take up much room.
Amazon has a large number of slide copiers at all prices and they also sell the 2 x 2 slide boxes. Look under 2 x 2 coin storage boxes.
Good luck with your copying.

Dickwood33 Loc: Alberta, Canada

Update to my previous post 7/25. I now use an Olympus 25mm (50mm FF equiv.) macro lens. Works like a charm, got it for a song from MPB. Suspect there are not too many "short" macro users hence the price.

burkphoto Loc: High Point, NC

Olympus and Panasonic both make 30mm Micro 4/3 macro lenses, but the 25s are all regular normal lenses. Are you sure it's not this one?:

https://www.m43lenses.com/olympus-30mm-f3.5-macro/

smussler Loc: Land O Lakes, FL - Formerly Miller Place, NY

I use it with a cropped sensor D5600 with a 40mm Micro Nikkor. Works great.

Sample:

(Download)