Bayou wrote:
External drives routinely are made with the cheapest possible drives. To get a quality external, you must assemble your own. Choose a high quality 3.5" desktop type drive (research required to determine what's best), and buy an external drive case made by Rosewill, Startech, or others.
Also, you seem to have a staggering number of photos. Yesterday you said you had "millions"...today you mention that you have multiple full drives. Not meaning to be flip, but do you agressively cull your photos before storing them? Most photographers dump the great majority of their shots when they're first viewed on the computer.
External drives routinely are made with the cheape... (
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I'm aware of that. However, I keep everything. One never knows when new software will come around . . . . I do not process everything to a final image.
markngolf wrote:
I was about to say similar!
Unbelievable!!
Mark
Comes from old negative days, I guess. You don't throw away any negative or slide! So I don't throw away anything except absolute duds.
AzPicLady wrote:
Comes from old negative days, I guess. You don't throw away any negative or slide! So I don't throw away anything except absolute duds.
My comment was meant for a reply to my post about the jazz album, "Kind of Blue".
Anyway, I'd take the drive back, especially since it's from Walmart.
Good luck. Sounds very frustrating.
Mark
AzPicLady wrote:
Sunday I purchased a brand new 6T WD hard drive to use for backup copying of my most recent photographs. (my others are all full!). Yesterday, I plugged it in and chose one of my smaller HD's to copy to it. That's what I've always done in the past. Well, hours later I still had 0% copied! The computer crashed a couple of times. The new HD was "unavailable" about every 10th image. I tried a different USB cord, and that seemed to help. Now, I've learned that apparently the power cord connection isn't firm and keeps losing contact. So now when it stops on a particular image, I simply push in on the power cord and it will refire. I'm not sure I want to fight with this thing for the rest of my life. Should I keep pressing on, or simply remove all the files I was actually able to copy to it and take it back?
Sunday I purchased a brand new 6T WD hard drive to... (
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Yes return it. I have used WD drives for years. Tons of video footage. Never a failure. A few months ago
stupidly I pulled the cords from 2 WD drives 2T 4T. The drives crashed to the floor. I was able with help.
to remove covers and fix the ports with some help and got all the files. Seagate and the advertised G drives
have one of those are not as reliable. After all their only machines. Good luck. Get a new one.
A remote possibility here which I mention only because of a sort-of similar personal experience.
In my case, I found that the power supply to the USB ports was set to power-down after a very short period.
The computer was set to shut down after 30 minutes of inactivity but the USB ports were set to 5 minutes.
This happened after an update had changed my overall power setting from "max performance" to what the manufacturer considered "balanced".
Probably not your problem but might be worth checking.
alexol wrote:
A remote possibility here which I mention only because of a sort-of similar personal experience.
In my case, I found that the power supply to the USB ports was set to power-down after a very short period.
The computer was set to shut down after 30 minutes of inactivity but the USB ports were set to 5 minutes.
This happened after an update had changed my overall power setting from "max performance" to what the manufacturer considered "balanced".
Probably not your problem but might be worth checking.
A remote possibility here which I mention only bec... (
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The problem power cord is to an AC plug. I did not know that about usb ports. Good to know.
As noted, it could be your computer (take drive back!). As far as the power problem, it could be the cord or it could be a connector problem in the drive (take drive back!). My suggestions.
TriX
Loc: Raleigh, NC
The long term answer is to return the drive and then buy an HGST Ultrastar (enterprise class) drive and a fan cooled enclosure. Takes about 5 minutes to put the drive in the enclosure. Then partition and format it. Not quite as simple as buying a prepackaged external drive, but SO much more reliable.
You never know unless you open it up (which voids the warranty) what drive is in a prepackaged external, but you can bet it’s the cheapest drive they make and there is rarely a fan in the enclosure (heat is a drive killer). The fact is that you cannot manufacture, test, market, distribute and sell at a profit a quality drive, case, interface, power supply and cables for less than a hundred dollars.
TriX wrote:
The long term answer is to return the drive and then buy an HGST Ultrastar (enterprise class) drive and a fan cooled enclosure. Takes about 5 minutes to put the drive in the enclosure. Then partition and format it. Not quite as simple as buying a prepackaged external drive, but SO much more reliable.
You never know unless you open it up (which voids the warranty) what drive is in a prepackaged external, but you can bet it’s the cheapest drive they make and there is rarely a fan in the enclosure (heat is a drive killer). The fact is that you cannot manufacture, test, market, distribute and sell at a profit a quality drive, case, interface, power supply and cables for less than a hundred dollars.
The long term answer is to return the drive and th... (
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And this one cost more than that.
TriX
Loc: Raleigh, NC
AzPicLady wrote:
And this one cost more than that.
The issue with WD (and the majority of external drive manufacturers), is there is no way to tell what class drive is in it, and you can bet it’s the cheapest drive they make. An HGST Drive is probably $180, and a case is $35 or so, BUT how much is your data worth?
TriX wrote:
The issue with WD (and the majority of external drive manufacturers), is there is no way to tell what class drive is in it, and you can bet it’s the cheapest drive they make. An HGST Drive is probably $180, and a case is $35 or so, BUT how much is your data worth?
Unfortunately, since I don't seem to be able to sell, I assume it has no value.
TriX
Loc: Raleigh, NC
AzPicLady wrote:
Unfortunately, since I don't seem to be able to sell, I assume it has no value.
(Smile) Fair enough, then no need to worry about storing (or losing) it.
Cheers
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