How to improve!
Nov 14, 2020 09:15:57 #
Grahame wrote:
Flat light with possible early morning mist, ISO1600 giving you a fair amount of noise and an average lens pushed to it's max FL are not going to give you the 'best'. Both images are well focused.
The biggest problem I see is the noise and any attempt to reduce that is going to reduce the sharpness as well, whatever method you use. So what can you do, partially remove the noise (I used NIK Define), boost the contrast (I used NIK Color Efex Pro Contrast) and undertake a two pass sharpen.
The biggest problem I see is the noise and any attempt to reduce that is going to reduce the sharpness as well, whatever method you use. So what can you do, partially remove the noise (I used NIK Define), boost the contrast (I used NIK Color Efex Pro Contrast) and undertake a two pass sharpen.
Thanks for your input!!
Nov 14, 2020 09:19:19 #
pithydoug wrote:
I played with the second, give me hell and I'll erase it. I simply found it was underexposed which is trivial to fix in LR or ACR. I cheated and tossed it into PS to remove the snow in front. It added nothing to the shot. Then I used Topaz Denoise. Sharpen alone just sharpens the noise. Then back to LR and trivial adjustments to shadows and highlights. I found the pic pretty good. ISO of 1600 not really egregious with today's sensors.
Yes, the under exposure was the biggest problem. I also removed the snow!
Nov 14, 2020 09:22:48 #
R.G. wrote:
The shot is underexposed and the ISO is high. Brightening a dark shot is never going to be ideal and it's an even worse idea with a high ISO. On top of that, sharpening and noise don't go well together.
If you aren't using a 2 second delay, camera shake from you pressing the shutter release is still a possibility. I don't shoot wildlife or pets but I wonder if 1/1250 is necessary. I got the impression that 1/500 was enough even for dogs running about (I'm open to correction).
If you aren't using a 2 second delay, camera shake from you pressing the shutter release is still a possibility. I don't shoot wildlife or pets but I wonder if 1/1250 is necessary. I got the impression that 1/500 was enough even for dogs running about (I'm open to correction).
Seems everyone thinks 1/500 would work, I guess when I went to Africa with a pro they used height shutter speeds and so that is what I have been doing! I will try slower and see what happens! I don’t use the delay because I use the high or slow multiple shots, what is that called, I hold the shutter button and take several shots in a row.
Nov 14, 2020 09:29:56 #
genocolo
Loc: Vail and Gasparilla Island
Photolady2014 wrote:
Hello, I am frustrated with the quality of photo ... (show quote)
You and others know a lot more about this than I do. But, when I come across an opportunity for an action shot like this, I will take the first few with my 80D and 100-400 on auto, which I keep on so that my camera is ready for an unexpected shot. Then I will go to manual if time and action permit.
Nov 14, 2020 09:39:31 #
BurghByrd
Loc: Pittsburgh
This is still a nice shot but I concur with the observation that the snow is throwing off your exposure. I'd suggest using manual mode, a shutter speed you feel sufficient to control shake & movement (maybe 1/250), f/8 if that works for you or as needed for adequate depth of field ~4 ft DOF at f/8 & at 100' distance for 600mm focal length) then use the ISO to control exposure for the scene asjusting as necessary to get the brightest spot of the scene (snow) just below the blinkies or just below the right side of your exposure. Don't forget to check exposure compensation and reset to 0; I sometime forget to reset it after using it. I think you'll find the resolution improve alot just with better exposure.
Nov 14, 2020 09:44:42 #
A few suggestions / requests:
R1: Rather than the LR conversion, can you instead convert the RAW to JPEG using Canon's DPPv4 so all the EOS data is included in the file attachment?
S1: Although the EOS data has been removed, Adobe does provide a rich set of Adobe data. Consider using the sRGB colorspace for all JPEG exports.
S2: Consider refining your sharpening to the specifics of your lens and camera. This conversion reports the Adobe defaults for any RAW import. See this post for details: Basics of Lightroom Sharpening
S3: Consider refining your Noise Reduction processing. This conversion reports the Adobe defaults for any RAW import. See this post for details: Basics of noise processing
S4: Consider using the "Camera Standard" profile in LR rather than Adobe's standard profile. This will give you a richer, more Canon like saturation of colors as you begin editing in LR.
R1: Rather than the LR conversion, can you instead convert the RAW to JPEG using Canon's DPPv4 so all the EOS data is included in the file attachment?
S1: Although the EOS data has been removed, Adobe does provide a rich set of Adobe data. Consider using the sRGB colorspace for all JPEG exports.
S2: Consider refining your sharpening to the specifics of your lens and camera. This conversion reports the Adobe defaults for any RAW import. See this post for details: Basics of Lightroom Sharpening
S3: Consider refining your Noise Reduction processing. This conversion reports the Adobe defaults for any RAW import. See this post for details: Basics of noise processing
S4: Consider using the "Camera Standard" profile in LR rather than Adobe's standard profile. This will give you a richer, more Canon like saturation of colors as you begin editing in LR.
Nov 14, 2020 09:46:36 #
BurghByrd
Loc: Pittsburgh
I suggested 1/250 s; that's probably not enough for a 600mm unless on a tripod but I hop you get the idea.
Nov 14, 2020 10:11:43 #
Photolady2014 wrote:
.....I use the high or slow multiple shots, what is that called....
Continuous shutter release - and it's a good idea. I have one more suggestion - rather than letting your desire for sharpness force you into framing tightly you should give the subjects a bit of breathing space (aka context) which will also give you a bit of leeway where cropping is concerned. It will also give you a safety zone around your subjects so losing bits of them out of the frame will be less likely.
Nov 14, 2020 10:15:24 #
jcryan wrote:
....I'm not sure how much resting the camera on a beanbag changes the rule for action shots....
As you point out, the rule of thumb is for hand held shots. With a bean bag, tripod or monopod it's the action that dictates what the shutter speed should be.
Nov 14, 2020 11:10:23 #
Photolady2014 wrote:
No offense at all! Bean bag on car window rolled ... (show quote)
Was the engine running? Slight engine vibration can transmit thru a beanbag. I made the mistake of leaving the engine running when photographing bison with the Tamron 150-600. Effect was noticeable.
Nov 14, 2020 12:30:18 #
Nov 14, 2020 12:46:20 #
CHG_CANON wrote:
A few suggestions / requests: br br R1: Rather th... (show quote)
I will have to see how to change to Camera Standard, took a quick look and did not see it. Will check out your other links. Thanks!
Nov 14, 2020 12:46:52 #
Odie-Jay wrote:
Was the engine running? Slight engine vibration can transmit thru a beanbag. I made the mistake of leaving the engine running when photographing bison with the Tamron 150-600. Effect was noticeable.
No, that lesson I have learned!
Nov 14, 2020 12:50:04 #
Pepsiman wrote:
wwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwWhat white balance were you using?
I leave it on auto white balance 90% of the time. This was on auto WB.
Nov 14, 2020 12:54:59 #
Photolady2014 wrote:
I will have to see how to change to Camera Standard, took a quick look and did not see it. Will check out your other links. Thanks!
See the 'camera calibration' sub panel in Develop.
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