One thing that hasn't come up more than occasionally in this thread is the use of a digital camera, macro lens, and "slide duplicator" accessory to copy film images with a digital camera.
A modern 16 MP or higher resolution digital camera does a great job copying film images. Capture is fast, and images are sharper than with a scanner, but the downside of the process is post-processing to remove dust and scratches, crop, straighten, correct color and tonality, etc.
If you just want to copy 1000 slides and negatives and look at them in Lightroom to pick and develop 50 you care about, it can make sense, though. You need:
A digital camera with a dedicated macro lens or an enlarger lens on a bellows rail
Suitable film holder, or slide holder, or slide copier accessory
Color-accurate, full spectrum light source
Some sort of shroud to keep stray light out of the light path from slide to lens (black Velcro or velvet cloth, or black foam core mounting board) (slide copier accessories generally do this for you)
Some sort of way to keep the film plano-parallel with the sensor
Use raw capture. For slides, you can process the images normally in whatever program you use for post. With a calibrated and profiled monitor, what you see is (almost) what you get.
For black-and-white negatives, you can invert the luminance (RGB) curve in Lr, Ps, etc. This is essentially dragging the top point all the way left, and the bottom point all the way right, so it looks sort of like a backslash [ \ ]. Now all the sliders for exposure, contrast, etc. will work BACKWARDS, so just drag them all the wrong way to make things right!
For color negatives, just get the Negative Lab Pro plug-in for Lightroom Classic or Lr6 ($99). Yes, you can individually invert and adjust the RGB curves in Lr, but it takes forever, and the results are seldom realistic. Besides, it takes too long. Negative Lab Pro is $100 worth of near magic, if you convert lots of negatives. It will save hours of frustration.
https://www.negativelabpro.comThe beauty of doing the slide processing and negative conversions in Lightroom Classic is that you can create a "Lightroom Preset" for negatives to invert curves, import your images, apply the preset to all the negatives, then cull edit your copies in the Library module. Rate them. Then go to the Develop module and do your magic. If needed, bump an image into Photoshop or another plug-in for further work.
Here are a few copies of old film I made. View these in download to see what can be done with a typical Micro 4/3 camera and macro lens. The first (kid and dog) is a vertical 8x10 crop of a horizontal 35mm slide from around 1951, made by my uncle with an Argus C4 on Anscochrome film. The second (mother/daughter) is a snapshot from a Kodak Instamatic 104 on Kodacolor X 126 I made in 1967. The last (Wife less-than-subtly telling me not to photograph her) is a black-and-white I made in 1984 with a Nikon FTn.
The first two required extensive dust spotting and scratch removal. The last one required light spotting... All my negatives from 1968 forward are properly preserved in glassines.
That brings up another point... Whether you scan or photocopy your film, you will need several different tools for cleaning. PEC-12 film cleaner on a PEC Pad is great for removing stuck on things that won't brush off or blow off. Dust-Off "canned air" is great for surface dust and grit. A StaticMaster brush removes static charges and brushes dust off. There are other tools, too... Google "film cleaning tools".