carlospaz wrote:
Probably this topic is very recurrent, but still I'm not able to nail a good shoot of the Moon.
Any good advise or working rule ?
Thank you all..!!
If you want the craters on the moon, you'll have much better results with a partial moon. Unless a professional with expensive equipment it is quite difficult with a full moon. Both of these were handheld.
This is where mirrorless cameras really shine. Use. Manual exposure with a f8 to f11 and adjust shutter and iso to get a good exposure. I use a tripod and the feature to zoom in to get good focus.
Please contact Stuart King, 732-780-7803, who does this all the time.
In fact, he is giving a lecture at my Photo Club, in New Jersey, later this year.
Zucco
rcorne001 wrote:
Try the Moony 11 rule. Set your aperture to f/11 and your shutter speed to the ISO of the camera. And as stated earlier keep your camera steady and use a remote (or delayed) release. Should get you close if not at where you want.
I was going to call it as some do the "Looney 11" rule :)))
shutter = 1/125 sec
aperture = F8
ISO = 640
focal length = 539 mm / 35mm equivalent = 3000 mm
carlospaz wrote:
Probably this topic is very recurrent, but still I'm not able to nail a good shoot of the Moon.
Any good advise or working rule ?
Thank you all..!!
This was shot using the Moony (or Loonie) 11 rule. Nikon D5 with 500mm f/5.6 pf lens. Camera set with f/11, ISO 250 and shutter 1/250. It is where I start and adjust shutter speed to get the exposure I want. (Shot through smoky skies due to wildfires in the area)
Steve
tdozier3 wrote:
I shoot most of Moon shots at f/9 or f/10, 1/320 sec. ISO 200 or 100, and always shoot handheld with my D500 and D7500 with the Sigma 150-600 Contemporary Lens. Works for me.
Damn! You're good! Amazing detail!
rmalarz wrote:
Using the exposure formula and knowing the full moon is approx. 250 c/ft^2, you're close. To render the moon in middle gray the exposure would be f/11@1/250. Your f/6.3 raised the exposure by just under 2 stops. This could account for the appearance of blown-out areas.
--Bob
Bob:
Do you know, or can you speculate, as to the yellow color?
My friend bought a Nikon P1000 ($1,000.00) and shoots the moon with it and gets amazing photos.
Artcameraman wrote:
My friend bought a Nikon P1000 ($1,000.00) and shoots the moon with it and gets amazing photos.
It has a specific moon setting. It's a pretty good all around camera, except it is big.
jlg1000 wrote:
Yes, I understood that.
Now, try to explain which part of my procedure degrades the image.
I didn’t say any part of your procedure degrades the image. It’s just a crap image, badly focused, badly exposed. Well at least you included some foreground elements so it’s not just another moon pic that looks like absolutely every other moon pic.
The best advise I ever got was: photograph it like a white rock in the bright sun.
It’s a white rock in bright sunlight
DeanS
Loc: Capital City area of North Carolina
tcthome wrote:
Add to Longshadow's list, zoom in to 100% on the rear lcd for best focus. Use the self-timer= 2 seconds & a exposure delay=2 seconds if there is one in your menu. The delays help with camera shake. Or a remote shutter release with the exposure delay.
Methinks any shot of the moon exposed for two secs will produce a big white object on your sensor.
I have an extensive library of moon shots, with a wide variety of cameras and lens combos. One thing in common: most of my shots are at abt iso 200, f4-f8, ss200-800, with some decent shots to boot. Btw, all hh or proped against a steady object like a fence, tree, or wall.
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