Ugly Hedgehog - Photography Forum
Home Active Topics Newest Pictures Search Login Register
Main Photography Discussion
Gimbal vs. Lens Collar? Thoughts, advice recommendations?
Page <prev 2 of 3 next>
Jan 16, 2021 08:17:21   #
GLSmith Loc: Tampa, Fl
 
step 1 figure out total weight of the 2 lenses individually as well as the weight of the camera
Step 2 Find a tripod of your choosing capable of supporting that weight & a few more...i.e. If camera & lens weigh 7 pounds, find a tripod capable of supporting a minimum of 12 pounds
When you buy it, immediately try it out...if you still have motion return it & get another vendor... I've had 2 different vendors I would not buy from again as I still get very minimal movement with a D850 & 600 mm telephoto
Keep in mind "wind", if its windy , you may want to remove the lens hood

Reply
Jan 16, 2021 08:52:49   #
Canisdirus
 
L plate and a fluid head.
Fluid heads don't slip.

Reply
Jan 16, 2021 08:54:21   #
Gene51 Loc: Yonkers, NY, now in LSD (LowerSlowerDelaware)
 
kotography4u wrote:
Hi All - I have Nikon 28-300 and Nikon 105 Micro lenses (among others) and am beginning to explore portrait photography. I'm finding that when using a tripod, the weight of the 28-300 and sometimes the 105 micro cause the camera (Nikon D750) to flop down (or at least drop down slightly) when camera is tilted to portrait orientation on tripod. I had thought that a lens collar (to balance the weight more evenly) might be the solution, but looking for info led me to wonder if a gimbal might be smarter, more versatile, worth the extra expense? Whether one incorporates the advantages of the other and then adds more? Can anyone chime in with thoughts about one vs. the other, whether it's worth the extra expense (cost is somewhat an issue , and "used" is not a problem, around $100 is my max). Thoughts on brands or models?
Does the gimbal solve the problem of balancing the lens weight so it doesn't "flop" or does it just give more rotational and vertical flexibility without addressing the flopping problem? Thanks in advance! I appreciate any advice or input!
Hi All - I have Nikon 28-300 and Nikon 105 Micro l... (show quote)


I think that you may be looking at this the wrong way.

Your tripod head is failing you. From your description, it sounds like the manner in which the camera is attached to the head is not all that great. Gimbals are really only used with lenses that have tripod collars, and you may end up spending between $80 to $150 for third party lens collars on eBay that may be of questionable quality. You will of course save the $$ you'd spend on an L Plate for the camera, but you haven't addressed the fundamental issue - a less than optimum tripod head.

The best solution, assuming you have a sturdy tripod, is to get a better head with an Arca-Swiss compatible clamp, and a rail so that you can move the camera back for better balance. Using an L bracket and an Arca-Swiss clamp on the rail to attach the camera will give you the flexibility in switching from portrait to landscape, and keep the camera from rotating. The rail should have a double dovetail so that it can be mounted on the head.

The next best solution is to use a rail on your existing head, but the reality is that if your head is insufficient, the rail will only provide modest benefit.

Hejnar Photo sells quality hardware and I am certain you can put together something with their rails and clamps. See my photos below. I used an 5/8" thick 8" double dovetail rail and a 1-1/2" Arca compatible clamp, mounted crosswise on the rail.

https://www.hejnarphotostore.com/

You could go with Bogen/Mafrotto, but it is less of an industry standard and though they have generic L brackets finding a rail that is made to Manfrotto's specs could be a problem. I've never tried looking but you may have better success.

On another note - if you are doing portrait work and you are not doing lots of repetitive headshots, using your camera hand held will provide a lot more flexibility. Using mono lights (preferable) or speedlights lights will keep your images crisp and sharp and free of camera or subject movement induced blur.

I realize none of this is within your budget, but not buying the right gear will only cost you way more than you planned to spend down the road. You already have a tripod and head that isn't cutting it. No point in repeating that mistake.

Rial mounted at mid-point
Rial mounted at mid-point...
(Download)

rail mounted at front, camera fully to the rear
rail mounted at front, camera fully to the rear...
(Download)

rail mounted at rear, camera fully to the front
rail mounted at rear, camera fully to the front...
(Download)

camera rotated to portrait
camera rotated to portrait...
(Download)

Reply
 
 
Jan 16, 2021 08:57:40   #
alberio Loc: Casa Grande AZ
 
kotography4u wrote:
Thanks for the tips! I think the slippage is occurring between the bottom of the camera and the surface of the plate at the top of the head, so what you mention should take care of that. Even with the screw wightened forcefully, the torque from the weight of the lens still causes the camera and lens to drift down. Thanks for responding!
Kevin


If you oriented the tripod/head to where the weight of the camera/lens tightens the screw it might help. I've had similar issues and finally realized the screw was being loosened instead of tightened.

Reply
Jan 16, 2021 09:06:34   #
Gene51 Loc: Yonkers, NY, now in LSD (LowerSlowerDelaware)
 
GLSmith wrote:
step 1 figure out total weight of the 2 lenses individually as well as the weight of the camera
Step 2 Find a tripod of your choosing capable of supporting that weight & a few more...i.e. If camera & lens weigh 7 pounds, find a tripod capable of supporting a minimum of 12 pounds
When you buy it, immediately try it out...if you still have motion return it & get another vendor... I've had 2 different vendors I would not buy from again as I still get very minimal movement with a D850 & 600 mm telephoto
Keep in mind "wind", if its windy , you may want to remove the lens hood
step 1 figure out total weight of the 2 lenses ind... (show quote)


Using weight as a criterion for tripod selection will most certainly result in money wasted on junk. Nearly every tripod on the market today, even those made of aluminum with lots of plastic parts, will support a 12 lb load. But only a well designed tripod with thick legs will provide the stability required to keep the images free of motion blur. The fact you have already gotten two tripods that won't work with your 600mm lens should tell you all you have to know. With your D850 and 600mm I wouldn't use any tripod with a top tube diameter less than 37mm - and that is cutting it close. Thicker is better.

Image magnification - either by using a long lens at close range, or macro - is the most demanding of tripod stability. Load capacity really has nothing to do with stability.

https://blog.reallyrightstuff.com/choosing-a-tripod-part-1/
https://blog.reallyrightstuff.com/choosing-a-tripod-part-2/
https://blog.reallyrightstuff.com/choosing-a-tripod-part-3/

You don't have to bounce for RRS prices - you can get very reasonable performance from brands like Feisol, LeoFoto and others - but the key spec is top tube diameter.

Reply
Jan 16, 2021 09:30:17   #
imagemeister Loc: mid east Florida
 
kotography4u wrote:
Hi All - I have Nikon 28-300 and Nikon 105 Micro lenses (among others) and am beginning to explore portrait photography. I'm finding that when using a tripod, the weight of the 28-300 and sometimes the 105 micro cause the camera (Nikon D750) to flop down (or at least drop down slightly) when camera is tilted to portrait orientation on tripod. I had thought that a lens collar (to balance the weight more evenly) might be the solution, but looking for info led me to wonder if a gimbal might be smarter, more versatile, worth the extra expense? Whether one incorporates the advantages of the other and then adds more? Can anyone chime in with thoughts about one vs. the other, whether it's worth the extra expense (cost is somewhat an issue , and "used" is not a problem, around $100 is my max). Thoughts on brands or models?
Does the gimbal solve the problem of balancing the lens weight so it doesn't "flop" or does it just give more rotational and vertical flexibility without addressing the flopping problem? Thanks in advance! I appreciate any advice or input!
Hi All - I have Nikon 28-300 and Nikon 105 Micro l... (show quote)


Ultimately, the best you can do is keep the center of gravity of your lens/camera combo centered over the pivot point of your head (BALANCED). In your case, you will need an L bracket with a special adapter to allow using a long Arca/Swiss plate to allow for adjusting for this balance point. I cannot find the proper adapter right now but will post if/when I do .... Gene51 is showing the adapter plate you need in his response ...
.

Reply
Jan 16, 2021 09:36:53   #
ecurb Loc: Metro Chicago Area
 
kotography4u wrote:
Hi All - I have Nikon 28-300 and Nikon 105 Micro lenses (among others) and am beginning to explore portrait photography. I'm finding that when using a tripod, the weight of the 28-300 and sometimes the 105 micro cause the camera (Nikon D750) to flop down (or at least drop down slightly) when camera is tilted to portrait orientation on tripod. I had thought that a lens collar (to balance the weight more evenly) might be the solution, but looking for info led me to wonder if a gimbal might be smarter, more versatile, worth the extra expense? Whether one incorporates the advantages of the other and then adds more? Can anyone chime in with thoughts about one vs. the other, whether it's worth the extra expense (cost is somewhat an issue , and "used" is not a problem, around $100 is my max). Thoughts on brands or models?
Does the gimbal solve the problem of balancing the lens weight so it doesn't "flop" or does it just give more rotational and vertical flexibility without addressing the flopping problem? Thanks in advance! I appreciate any advice or input!
Hi All - I have Nikon 28-300 and Nikon 105 Micro l... (show quote)


How about a visit to a hardware store and build your own L bracket and lens support bar? Look at Kirk and RRS websites for ideas.

Reply
 
 
Jan 16, 2021 11:54:03   #
petrochemist Loc: UK
 
Gimbals are great for long lenses, but are really not much use without a lens collar! the camera & lens need to be balanced for them to work.

With shorter lenses like your macro a decent ball head should hold the lens even without a collar.

Reply
Jan 16, 2021 16:41:04   #
Gene51 Loc: Yonkers, NY, now in LSD (LowerSlowerDelaware)
 
imagemeister wrote:
Ultimately, the best you can do is keep the center of gravity of your lens/camera combo centered over the pivot point of your head (BALANCED). In your case, you will need an L bracket with a special adapter to allow using a long Arca/Swiss plate to allow for adjusting for this balance point. I cannot find the proper adapter right now but will post if/when I do .... Gene51 is showing the adapter plate you need in his response ...
.


Hejnar Photo has a great selection of plates, rails and clamps - and the rails come in a variety of thicknesses.

Reply
Jan 19, 2021 20:12:21   #
amfoto1 Loc: San Jose, Calif. USA
 
kotography4u wrote:
Hi All - I have Nikon 28-300 and Nikon 105 Micro lenses (among others) and am beginning to explore portrait photography. I'm finding that when using a tripod, the weight of the 28-300 and sometimes the 105 micro cause the camera (Nikon D750) to flop down (or at least drop down slightly) when camera is tilted to portrait orientation on tripod. I had thought that a lens collar (to balance the weight more evenly) might be the solution, but looking for info led me to wonder if a gimbal might be smarter, more versatile, worth the extra expense? Whether one incorporates the advantages of the other and then adds more? Can anyone chime in with thoughts about one vs. the other, whether it's worth the extra expense (cost is somewhat an issue , and "used" is not a problem, around $100 is my max). Thoughts on brands or models?
Does the gimbal solve the problem of balancing the lens weight so it doesn't "flop" or does it just give more rotational and vertical flexibility without addressing the flopping problem? Thanks in advance! I appreciate any advice or input!
Hi All - I have Nikon 28-300 and Nikon 105 Micro l... (show quote)



Neither of your lenses can be fitted with a truly functional lens collar.

And, to work properly, a gimbal should be paired up with a large lens that has a lens collar.

In other words, it's not "gimbal vs. lens collar"... It's gimbal AND lens collar. Your lenses have no means of fitting a collar AND aren't really large, long or heavy enough to handle properly on a gimbal. So neither a gimbal nor a lens collar is a solution to your problem.

To solve your problem, the easiest and best solution would simply be a better tripod head that holds better and doesn't slip.

If your tripod head uses Arca-Swiss type quick releases, it also might be possible to fit your camera with a long mounting plate that's aligned with the lens axis, rather than tangential to it the way camera plates are normally fitted. This would allow you to slide the camera backward slightly, to improve balance and equilibrium, reducing the tendency of the tripod head to drop.

Or, if you already have an Arca-Swiss camera plate on the bottom of your camera, get a Wimberley M-8 Perpendicular Bracket that fits onto the camera plate but protrudes forward, and will allow the same sliding adjustment for better balance on the tripod head.

Yet another possibility is a lens support. Kirk Photo offers a number of different ones (https://www.kirkphoto.com/catalogsearch/result/?cat=&q=lens+support) but they are lens-specific and none is made for Nikkor 28-300 or 105 Micro. You might find a more universal bracket of this type, but it may interfere with some functions of the lens, such as the manual focus or zoom rings. To be helpful, it too much be fitted with an Arca-compatible lens plate and allow for the whole rig to be slid backward atop the tripod for better balance.

You also might try using smaller, shorter prime lenses like 50mm f/1.4 and 85mm f/1.8 or f/2. These also have larger aperture than either the 28-300 or 105mm, so may be able to more strongly blur down backgrounds.

Personally I rarely use a tripod when I'm shooting portraits.
.

Reply
Jan 20, 2021 14:02:27   #
kotography4u
 
amfoto1 wrote:
Neither of your lenses can be fitted with a truly functional lens collar.

And, to work properly, a gimbal should be paired up with a large lens that has a lens collar.

In other words, it's not "gimbal vs. lens collar"... It's gimbal AND lens collar. Your lenses have no means of fitting a collar AND aren't really large, long or heavy enough to handle properly on a gimbal. So neither a gimbal nor a lens collar is a solution to your problem.

To solve your problem, the easiest and best solution would simply be a better tripod head that holds better and doesn't slip.

If your tripod head uses Arca-Swiss type quick releases, it also might be possible to fit your camera with a long mounting plate that's aligned with the lens axis, rather than tangential to it the way camera plates are normally fitted. This would allow you to slide the camera backward slightly, to improve balance and equilibrium, reducing the tendency of the tripod head to drop.

Or, if you already have an Arca-Swiss camera plate on the bottom of your camera, get a Wimberley M-8 Perpendicular Bracket that fits onto the camera plate but protrudes forward, and will allow the same sliding adjustment for better balance on the tripod head.

Yet another possibility is a lens support. Kirk Photo offers a number of different ones (https://www.kirkphoto.com/catalogsearch/result/?cat=&q=lens+support) but they are lens-specific and none is made for Nikkor 28-300 or 105 Micro. You might find a more universal bracket of this type, but it may interfere with some functions of the lens, such as the manual focus or zoom rings. To be helpful, it too much be fitted with an Arca-compatible lens plate and allow for the whole rig to be slid backward atop the tripod for better balance.

You also might try using smaller, shorter prime lenses like 50mm f/1.4 and 85mm f/1.8 or f/2. These also have larger aperture than either the 28-300 or 105mm, so may be able to more strongly blur down backgrounds.

Personally I rarely use a tripod when I'm shooting portraits.
.
Neither of your lenses can be fitted with a truly ... (show quote)


All good thoughts and suggestions - thanks for responding with help! Lots to think about and plan for...
Kevin

Reply
 
 
Jan 21, 2021 01:15:02   #
RWR Loc: La Mesa, CA
 
kotography4u wrote:
It's a SLIK Universal 112AF - more than 20 years old. It's been great, light and useful, but maybe time for another one? So much to spend money on...!!!

No doubt that head, and probably the tripod, is too light duty. I shoot a lot of verticals and prefer a rotating collar, but four of my favorite heavy lenses have either a fixed bush or no tripod mount. I don’t care for L-brackets, so use heavy-duty ball heads and rotate the camera 90° clockwise (as seen from the rear). The forward weight of the lens thus tightens it against the quick-release plate screw and prevents sagging. With an appropriate tripod, off-center weight is not an issue. Good luck!

Reply
Jan 21, 2021 10:39:57   #
kotography4u
 
RWR wrote:
No doubt that head, and probably the tripod, is too light duty. I shoot a lot of verticals and prefer a rotating collar, but four of my favorite heavy lenses have either a fixed bush or no tripod mount. I don’t care for L-brackets, so use heavy-duty ball heads and rotate the camera 90° clockwise (as seen from the rear). The forward weight of the lens thus tightens it against the quick-release plate screw and prevents sagging. With an appropriate tripod, off-center weight is not an issue. Good luck!
No doubt that head, and probably the tripod, is to... (show quote)


Thanks for the thoughts and tips - I hadn't thought about the trick of rotating the head clockwise so loosening of the camera wouldn't be an issue. I'll give it a try!
Kevin

Reply
Jan 21, 2021 11:30:26   #
Canisdirus
 
kotography4u wrote:
Thanks for the thoughts and tips - I hadn't thought about the trick of rotating the head clockwise so loosening of the camera wouldn't be an issue. I'll give it a try!
Kevin


Just realize you are changing your framing of the image.

Reply
Jan 21, 2021 11:33:30   #
kotography4u
 
Canisdirus wrote:
Just realize you are changing your framing of the image.


How so? Anything other than 180 degrees out?

Reply
Page <prev 2 of 3 next>
If you want to reply, then register here. Registration is free and your account is created instantly, so you can post right away.
Main Photography Discussion
UglyHedgehog.com - Forum
Copyright 2011-2024 Ugly Hedgehog, Inc.