Ugly Hedgehog® - Photography Forum
Indoor Sports Photography- Suggestions on a Budget
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Jan 13, 2020 07:45:48   #
Webbie62
 
Thanks - I figured, most of my problem is not fully understanding Manual mode yet. I go back and look at each file that appears like a decent photo and try to mimic that during the next game. My depth of field is currently what is being sacrificed - but that doesn't bother me much.

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Jan 13, 2020 08:31:03   #
bleirer
 
Webbie62 wrote:
Thanks - I figured, most of my problem is not fully understanding Manual mode yet. I go back and look at each file that appears like a decent photo and try to mimic that during the next game. My depth of field is currently what is being sacrificed - but that doesn't bother me much.


All the modes are pretty much another facet of the same gem. You control some things and you give the camera automatic control of the rest. Full manual with auto iso restricted to a reasonable range with a reasonable minimum shutter speed and evaluative metering might be a good thing to try out, unless your camera has the f(v) mode, which is good too. That way you can pick the shutter speed within reason and pick the aperture within reason, and the auto ISO will adjust for changing light conditions if there are any. You should have exposure compensation available in auto ISO even in manual mode, but shouldn't be needed much.

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Jan 13, 2020 08:40:56   #
Michael1079 Loc: Indiana
 
I do outdoor soccer, indoor basketball, and gymnastics. Many of the venues for the last two have reasonably poor/limited lighting. I'd say a 70-200 f/2.8 would be a bare minimum. Unfortunately, a new one is over $1000.00, which is way over your budget. Adorama has one for $1,249.00 which is $500 less than what I paid three years ago. A 135mm 2.0 lens at Adorama is going for $699.00, but I think you may regret the inability to zoom in and out?

Best of luck!

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Jan 13, 2020 08:49:53   #
brooklyn-camera I Loc: Brooklyn, NY
 
Webbie62 wrote:
I easily get down on the gym floor and shoot from any angle (within regulations) that I think I can obtain a good shot. I am using Windows 10 Photoshop using a Canon 6D.


I shoot jpeg's for sports.... 6DMKII or 7DMKII 70-200mm f/2.8 L II USM. I shoot from the bench area thanks to the teams I shoot for. I do this for free or maybe some team gear (hoodies).

70-200mm 1/1000 ISO 2500


This match was between NYC Correction Department and the FDNY-EMS.

Next match is NYC Correction Dept. Vs. NYS Court Officers Hockey Team.
Take him down........
Take him down...........
(Download)
Smile for the camera.....
Smile for the camera........
(Download)
Faceoff.....
Faceoff........
(Download)

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Jan 13, 2020 09:12:11   #
bleirer
 
brooklyn-camera I wrote:
I shoot jpeg's for sports.... 6DMKII or 7DMKII 70-200mm f/2.8 L II USM. I shoot from the bench area thanks to the teams I shoot for. I do this for free or maybe some team gear (hoodies).

70-200mm 1/1000 ISO 2500


This match was between NYC Correction Department and the FDNY-EMS.

Next match is NYC Correction Dept. Vs. NYS Court Officers Hockey Team.


If those are the 6d it's nice to see how well it handles the relatively high ISO. Wondering how high is too high for the 6d?

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Jan 13, 2020 09:21:41   #
wkocken Loc: McGregor, MN
 
Do not be afraid to bump up your ISO, especially on a full frame. Shoot in Raw so you can better adjust your white balance letter on.

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Jan 13, 2020 09:42:30   #
TriX Loc: Raleigh, NC
 
bleirer wrote:
If those are the 6d it's nice to see how well it handles the relatively high ISO. Wondering how high is too high for the 6d?


It’s similar in high ISO performance to a 5D3, which I used to routinely shoot between ISO 6400 and 12,800 for indoor sports in a poorly lit HS gym. Very acceptable noise with the internal noise reduction on medium and processing raw using DPP for conversion and finishing in PS with Nik Plugin. For wrestling, I can get by with 1/250. For BB, It depends - 1/500 is preferable, but I have shot at 1/250. Be sure the camera is on AI servo (I use case 3) and I use the center pt AF or center point plus 4 surrounding. If you’re shooting at wide apertures, you’re going to need the focus spot on because of the narrow DOF (but it also isolates the subject, which is good). I used to use a 70-200 f2.8L, often wide open, but recently, because of the weight, I’ve been using my 135 f2L (I put my Canon 1.4x MKII extender in my pocket for those times when I need 190mm @ f2.8). I’ve also used my 85 f1.8 and even a “nifty fifty” if I’m right under the basket (but you need to be able to move in a hurry 😮). The primes aren’t as versatile as the zoom, but they’re generally sharper and a whole lot lighter, and if you have enough pixels on the subject, a little cropping isn’t an issue.

Edit: as Gene just mentioned, anti flicker mode is nice, but I don’t think you have it on the 6D, do you?

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Jan 13, 2020 09:43:45   #
Gene51 Loc: Yonkers, NY, now in LSD (LowerSlowerDelaware)
 
Webbie62 wrote:
Canon 6D


Then that settles it - a used 70-200 F2.8 may be your best bet for your budget, and its high ISO performance is quite good, giving you clean images up to 3200 ISO.

Don't forget to use the Anti-Flicker mode. This will let you shoot at shorter shutter speeds without uneven lighting/color across the image field.

You really don't want to be swapping lenses with a 50-85 combination.

Besides, no review or personal use has ever supported the notion that the faster lenses are sharp corner to corner when used wide open, though the 85 F1.8 is actually not bad at F1.8.

Here is a reliable source for your perusal:

https://www.opticallimits.com/canon_eos_ff/564-canon50f14ff?start=1
https://www.opticallimits.com/canon_eos_ff/415-canon_50_18_ff
https://www.opticallimits.com/canon_eos_ff/419-canon_85_18_5d

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Jan 13, 2020 09:44:22   #
gvarner Loc: Central Oregon Coast
 
Regardless of the lens, indoors you will be challenged with high ISO to keep your shutter speed around 1/400 or better. A fast prime or even a moderate reasonably fast zoom would help. If you can move around the perimeter, you won’t need a long tele zoom. Most of my shots with my 18-200 are at 135 or less.

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Jan 13, 2020 09:47:13   #
BebuLamar
 
Since you're already at the games so I would suggest to check out the light levels at those games before making decision on either cameras or lenses.

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Jan 13, 2020 09:52:01   #
brooklyn-camera I Loc: Brooklyn, NY
 
bleirer wrote:
If those are the 6d it's nice to see how well it handles the relatively high ISO. Wondering how high is too high for the 6d?


The lighting at this arena was nice for a change when shooting the game. Next game I'll drop the ISO and see how the photos come out.

Had some areas that have a dark brown wooden ceiling and lousy lighting that the ISO has to be through the roof, can you say noise. This is a different arena and will have a few games to shoot there.

Yes they were shot with the 6DMKII.

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Jan 13, 2020 09:59:41   #
brooklyn-camera I Loc: Brooklyn, NY
 
TriX wrote:
It’s similar in high ISO performance to a 5D3, which I used to routinely shoot between ISO 6400 and 12,800 for indoor sports in a poorly lit HS gym. Very acceptable noise with the internal noise reduction on medium and processing raw using DPP for conversion and finishing in PS with Nik Plugin. For wrestling, I can get by with 1/250. For BB, It depends - 1/500 is preferable, but I have shot at 1/250. Be sure the camera is on AI servo (I use case 3) and I use the center pt AF or center point plus 4 surrounding. If you’re shooting at wide apertures, you’re going to need the focus spot on because of the narrow DOF (but it also isolates the subject, which is good). I used to use a 70-200 f2.8L, often wide open, but recently, because of the weight, I’ve been using my 135 f2L (I put my Canon 1.4x MKII extender in my pocket for those times when I need 190mm @ f2.8). I’ve also used my 85 f1.8 and even a “nifty fifty” if I’m right under the basket (but you need to be able to move in a hurry 😮). The primes aren’t as versatile as the zoom, but they’re generally sharper and a whole lot lighter, and if you have enough pixels on the subject, a little cropping isn’t an issue.

Edit: as Gene just mentioned, anti flicker mode is nice, but I don’t think you have it on the 6D, do you?
It’s similar in high ISO performance to a 5D3, whi... (show quote)


https://www.manualslib.com/manual/1269336/Canon-Eos-6d-Mark-Ii.html?page=206

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Jan 13, 2020 10:08:04   #
TriX Loc: Raleigh, NC
 
brooklyn-camera I wrote:
https://www.manualslib.com/manual/1269336/Canon-Eos-6d-Mark-Ii.html?page=206


The 6D MKII (which is the manual you referenced) certainly does have anti-flicker (as does the 5D4), but I believe the OP originally stated he had a 6D, and I don’t recall that feature being available on the MKI.

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Jan 13, 2020 10:15:14   #
brooklyn-camera I Loc: Brooklyn, NY
 
TriX wrote:
The 6D MKII (which is the manual you referenced) certainly does have anti-flicker (as does the 5D4), but I believe the OP originally stated he had a 6D, and I don’t recall that feature being available on the MKI.


I believe that you are correct about the anti-flicker being on the MKII and not the MI.

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Jan 13, 2020 10:16:51   #
LWW Loc: Big Blue Nation
 
Webbie62 wrote:
Canon 6D


With a FF I would take a 50 and an 85 1.8 and shoot at F2.2, MANUAL, 1/500 shutter speed and AUTO ISO.

With that FL and that SS IMHO VR/IS is a waste of money.

It sounds as if you at least working on good hand held skills.

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