Gene51 Loc: Yonkers, NY, now in LSD (LowerSlowerDelaware)

Two things have to happen to make this occur. The adhesive fails AND the rubber coating begins to break down - both as a result of the salt from your hands, and UV exposure. The rubber tends to expand as it deteriorates making it virtually impossible to reattach regardless how strong an adhesive you use. The only reliable and permanent (relatively) solution is to replace the grip rubber. You can usually buy this from Nikon or on eBay. The kit usually includes a cleaner and new precision die cut adhesive sheets. I've replaced the grips on a D200, D300 and a D700 - and it is easy enough to do.

Gorilla glue is awful stuff - it expands as it dries and requires some moisture to activate it. Great on wood, horrible on rubber and metal - and precision fitted pieces like rubber grips.

Swamp-Cork Loc: Lanexa, Virginia

I suggest that you purchase a tube of the "Original Shoe Goo" which is sold for shoe repair. I used it to reattach the aluminum disk on a Nikon D7100 Dial which shows you which mode you are in with great results! You need to be very careful and not get it on any moving parts as you should when using any adhesive. For the small area that I applied it too I just used a toothpick to apply it because the outer rim of the circle was no more than an eighth of an inch and if flowed into the center would have caused problems, but for your repair would take quite a good deal more. You need to be very careful with it and apply it sparingly to each surface as directed and follow the recommended drying times as directed. By retaining a little flexibility it's great for bonding two somewhat dissimilar materials together. I have used it on a number of materials but just make sure that the old adhesive is removed as much as possible and then I cleaned the surface using a little-rubbing alcohol to remove all oils from the surface. Just be careful not to overuse as it would be difficult to remove on the surface! I had called a local camera shop about repairing my camera but they would not attempt it and the cost for sending it back to just reglue the cap would be considerable so I mention the glue to him along with my experience with it and he suggested that I give it a try and have been using the camera for at least six months since the repair. After reading what Gene said I agree that if the rubber is breaking down then it should be replaced but if it looks ok and you can remove the old adhesive, then clean it with alcohol and apply a very small amount of glue and don't mess with it for at least 24 hours--maximum bond strength may take up to 72 hours and this is about the best adhesive for securing flexible materials that I have used.

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The qualities you object to are why I used it ....
cuz I was reattaching the original coverings. If
I had ordered new coverings, Gorilla Glue would
not be a good choice. And GG does require a lot
of patience, skill, and ingenuity. IOW, not easy.
But I am a skilled and patient genius, so, cool !

I'm not too concerned about future replacement
of the rubber pieces after more aging. By that
time, the cameras will be worthy of gaffer's tape :-)

.

sloscheider Loc: Minnesota

At least 3 posters have mentioned the use of Gorilla Glue - Gorilla Glue is a brand name, they have numerous types of glue, they have wood glue, general purpose glues and epoxies, all very different and all of them are Gorilla Glue brand....

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Specific qualities are described.

.

markjay

Its a Nikon - just use Elmers. I'm sure it will work !

bobforman Loc: Anacortes, Washington State

My first choice would be contact cement. Fairly quick operation. Second choice would be door seal cement, black in this case. It's designed for mating vinyl or rubber with metal and any overages can be easily cut off.

Blurryeyed Loc: NC Mountains.

The early manufactured Canon 60D's had a problem with the rubber skin on those cameras, I had one and the skin started pealing off, it was truly upsetting, I contacted Canon parts and was able to buy a replacement skin and the specialty tape used to apply the skin to the body for if I recall correctly about $60. The tape was precut to match the skinned areas of the camera body, I was able to reskin that camera and it looked just like new afterwards.

Dan Mc Loc: NM

JB Weld...sparingly!!

mas24 Loc: Southern CA

You are correct. I use the original gorilla glue. Which is the most commonly used. And I also have a roll of gorilla tape. Their version of duct tape. Which is good quality.

The Villages Loc: The Villages, Florida

MT (a member who is in the business) recommends Contact Cement.

spaceylb Loc: Long Beach, N.Y.

Ollieboy

Try contact cement sparingly. Follow the directions on bottle.

jerryc41 Loc: Catskill Mts of NY

https://neilvn.com/tangents/how-to-fix-loose-rubber-on-nikon-cameras/

Online recommendations -
"If you don't ever want it to come apart again, you can use an automotive weatherstrip adhesive. Use sparingly on plastic as it can damage it if not used lightly. It's primarily made for rubber to metal or painted metal surfaces, but I use it for much more. The strongest is 3M Super Weatherstrip Adhesive. The tube is rather large and 3M is not the cheapest product. Permatex makes an identical product in the same size for significant savings"

"Something non-permanent. It is probably necessary to remove that trim ring to service the camera."

"Keep the glue and its fumes away from your lens."

Also -
silicone glue, two-part epoxy, superglue, Locktite 480, contact cement, Pliobond (rubber contact cement)

OnDSnap Loc: NE New Jersey

Elmer's Rubber Cement, yes like we used to use in school. It's as good as certain brands contact cements. Clean off both surfaces of old adhesive. Then glue both surfaces with a thin coat, allow to become tacky (to the point when touched with the back of a finger/knuckle it doesn't transfer to you're skin), then firmly press together. I used to fix Formica counter tops with this stuff and never had a call back.