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Auto ISO
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Jan 12, 2019 09:22:32   #
leftj Loc: Texas
 
lamiaceae wrote:
I never use Auto ISO. I know what each and every ISO is for.


Aren't you special!

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Jan 12, 2019 09:25:04   #
leftj Loc: Texas
 
rbmitch123 wrote:
In taking a long exposure photo, say 2 seconds, would you ever keep your camera on auto ISO? Most cases I am shooting with Aperture priory and Auto ISO. For this discussion I would be shooting a landscape photo at dusk or in the dark.


You will note that the answers to your question are all over the place. Kinda like the IRS.

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Jan 12, 2019 09:40:58   #
jerryc41 Loc: Catskill Mts of NY
 
I'd decide on the ISO in a case like that. I generally set the ISO myself, although sometimes, I let the camera decide. Sometimes I just shoot "snapshots."

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Jan 12, 2019 09:43:32   #
GrandmaG Loc: Flat Rock, MI
 
It seems the “no auto ISO” outweighs the “use auto ISO”. Also, experiment is suggested a few times. Set aperture to F8 to F11, shutter to the 2 seconds you want and auto ISO. From there, go to all manual...adjust ISO to a lower number if too noisy at the ISO selected by the camera; then adjust shutter speed to get the look you want. You’ll have to do this quickly as the light changes rapidly st dusk.

Good luck

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Jan 12, 2019 09:54:46   #
Anvil Loc: Loveland, CO
 
I use auto ISO only when I'm shooting wildlife or birds. When I do that, the camera is in manual mode, plus auto ISO. I don't plant myself in a spot, and wait for the wildlife or birds to come to me, I'm usually hiking through changing terrain and light conditions. That means the ideal ISO setting is always changing. A critter appears, briefly, then runs off. I have to be ready to shoot, during that brief period. If I have to muck with the ISO setting, just to use full manual mode, I will lose the shot.

For everything else, I will use a fix ISO setting.

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Jan 12, 2019 09:57:27   #
uhaas2009
 
Everything what is in auto the camera adjust for you without you having control over it. If I want one or two stops underexposed than auto ISO isn’t a solution....if my kids playing ball than auto iso is maybe ideal.....try and play with your settings.....

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Jan 12, 2019 09:59:55   #
dyximan
 
martinfisherphoto wrote:
Here's the problem, you are using a Long exposure to get a properly exposed photo, correct???? Then No reason to use auto ISO, just take the photo and the ISO will adjust for a properly exposed photo. If you understand How a camera works, then you would have a Fixed ISO, adjust shutter speed to properly expose and now you have a photo shot in a lower ISO to prevent a lot of noise/grain from ruining your photo. I would highly recommend the Book, Understanding Exposure 3rd edition by Bryan Peterson. This simple to read and understand book will walk you through how a camera captures an image using the Exposure Triangle. Combination of shutter speed, aperture, and ISO. It will make you photography experience so much more pleasurable and take all of the guess work out..
Here's the problem, you are using a Long exposure ... (show quote)

I understand Bryan Peterson’s book is quite good. And in its third edition no doubt. Now if we could get someone to write a book on how to control the snarky arrogance of many of the hoggers here who choose to belittle rather than educate and or answer the Ops original questions in a first edition. That too would be great book for all to read, Wouldn’t you agree?

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Jan 12, 2019 10:13:30   #
rbmitch123
 
Thank you for all the input. Never. Always. Sometimes.
I actually thought there would be a consensus. But this is UH. Why would this topic be any different than most?
I will probably go back to my old technique and set the ISO low and my f stop to get the best DoF and adjust my speed for the best exposure.
Thank you all again for the time and effort you put into your responses.

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Jan 12, 2019 10:28:44   #
throughrhettseyes Loc: Rowlett, TX
 
No

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Jan 12, 2019 10:31:05   #
TriX Loc: Raleigh, NC
 
IDguy wrote:
ISO isn’t as important as it once was. Many of today’s cameras are considered ISO invarient. That means you get the same result by increasing the exposure in post processing as you would by increasing ISO in camera.

Here is one discussion of it: https://photographylife.com/iso-invariance-explained


With respect, I can’t agree with that. Some cameras are ISO invariant and some, like Canon (who owns a large segment of DSLR sales) are typically not. In either case, while the brightness can be compensated for in post, the results are not the SAME. A quick look at the respective histograms will show that to be the case.

Now back to the OP’s question. Personally, I would not combine auto ISO with a second auto mode such as shutter or aperture priority - the results can be unsuitable for the subject and your intentions. I would suggest picking two of the three parameters manually and using auto for the third (unless you’re willing for you or the camera to pick all three). I like manual shutter (to freeze the motion and prevent blur), manual aperture (to control DOF) and auto ISO EXCEPT when using ETTL flash, where I shoot full manual. I’ve found that combing auto ISO and ETTL (much like auto ISO plus aperture or shutter priority) can produce unpredictable results.

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Jan 12, 2019 10:47:54   #
petego4it Loc: NY
 
for all those who are so adamant about never using auto iso and being in control of the camera, I wonder if you also do not use auto focus? Same principle!

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Jan 12, 2019 11:04:03   #
dcampbell52 Loc: Clearwater Fl
 
rbmitch123 wrote:
In taking a long exposure photo, say 2 seconds, would you ever keep your camera on auto ISO? Most cases I am shooting with Aperture priory and Auto ISO. For this discussion I would be shooting a landscape photo at dusk or in the dark.


I rarely use Auto ISO.. I have a Nikon D7000, a Nikon D7100 and a Nikon D610. It has been my experience that Auto ISO will use the fastest shutter speed with wide open aperture at the highest ISO. If I'm in near darkness and on a tripod trying to do a timed exposure (yes I know all exposures are timed but I mean a fairly long exposure) I don't want the camera to bump ISO up to 64,000 and Aperture so f/4.6 in order to get a 1/60th of a second shot.
I want to shoot at ISO 100 and aperture f/16 at 250 seconds or something. I'm on a tripod and Yes there may be waves or something but I dont care.. I want the stars or the night lights or other things that are fairly motionless... or I want those car head and tail lights to make trails... I am NOT trying to freeze an image.

Now, some cameras (mine) will allow you to set ISO limits .. like a high ISO of 400 or something.. but even that is not as good a good old Bulb using a cable release or a wireless release and manually timing it.

Just my opinion and everyone does it differently.

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Jan 12, 2019 11:11:49   #
Fotoartist Loc: Detroit, Michigan
 
Some people have their minds made up about an issue and then close them up to any new developments just like in politics now.

Hey, some of you people have you examined your premises lately? We are not shooting film anymore. Open your minds up and accept the fact that ISO has been unlocked in the digital age.

What is so sacrosanct about your use of the exposure triangle that we have missed? (my art work).
petego4it wrote:
for all those who are so adamant about never using auto iso and being in control of the camera, I wonder if you also do not use auto focus? Same principle!



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Jan 12, 2019 11:20:51   #
Keiths Frame Of Mind
 
In my experience using Auto ISO it sets itself way higher than needed very often. I do use occasionally if in a rush to get a wildlife pic. But manually setting give much better results and lower ISO. Easy trick is put cameras on live view if you have it and spin ISO dial to where it looks good in lcd screen.

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Jan 12, 2019 11:22:07   #
foxfirerodandgun Loc: Stony Creek, VA
 
Since I plan to experiment with Manual mode, I was considering using Auto ISO. Most shots will be with static subjects and hand held. Would this be a wise choice? For moving subjects I would set the ISO at what I would consider would sharply capture the image at the lowest noise level.

Which leads me to another question which many may consider frivolous. Since I've been told that aperture settings only affect DOF and not exposure, slower shutter = more light/exposure / faster shutter = less light/exposure? Example would be static subject; bright sunny day; hand held = shutter +/- 1/250 range. Cloudy, overcast, dusk; hand held = shutter = +/- 1/60 to 1/80 range.

Comments?

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