Elmerviking

You nailed it!
Some argue that ISO has nothing to do with correct exposure..i guess they have to learn about the exposure triangle.
Some claim I am pushing my way to do it on them. Can they show me where? No.. because I never said that!
All I want is to learn, even if I probably have way more experience than they do.
Why can’t they explain if their way is the only right way to do it?
You are right..some like to argue just for the fun of it. I want to learn by asking questions..I always asked questions when I want something clarified. That’s one way to learn...you have to understand not just memorizing. I am what many ppl who knows me calls me “technically inclined,and due to my professional background eager to learn things from different views.
And yes..I have all time in the world to discuss ..I am retired!LOL

Grahame Loc: Fiji

Many generalisations are used with respect to discussing exposure, and too many conclusions jumped to as with your wording suggesting some need to "learn about the exposure triangle".

'Exposure' is often used to describe the amount of light hitting the sensor/film which is determined by Aperture/Speed alone.

'Exposure' is also often used to describe the 'brightness' of the image that comes out of the camera which is determined by Aperture/Speed/ISO.

Gene51 Loc: Yonkers, NY, now in LSD (LowerSlowerDelaware)

I do that all the time. It generally makes for less noisy images and better shadow capture. It's easy to rebalance tones in post processing. There s is no reason not to, especially if it makes for better images, don't you agree?

Gene51 Loc: Yonkers, NY, now in LSD (LowerSlowerDelaware)

I suppose it would. My habit is to not use it. As I said, old habits die hard. When you do something a certain way for 52 years and it gets the results one expects, is there any reason to change? I suppose if I were new to photography I might have adopted a shooting workflow that includes auto ISO.

I am also very comfortable using manual flash, and using a flash meter to set precise ratios for key/fill.

Grahame Loc: Fiji

Yes, I agree that it can be preferable to 'expose' a dark night scene 'brighter' than what you see it, it can give better results when PPd.

I just recently shot a 200 frame time-lapse from sunset to darkness and used 'Auto ISO' to determine the exposure (brightness of the image out of camera) once my set minimum acceptable speed had been reached. So in other words, completely in auto, the camera did it's best to expose all images to mid grey.

But as with all these things we need to know what the results are going to be and if they are suitable for our purpose.

tdekany Loc: Oregon

I’m sorry, but I also use a fixed iso 99% of the time. I read Bob’s response, which was not helpful, because he just said that he never uses auto iso. He should have mentioned why. In his case, it is due to him being a landscape photographer.

So my assumption wasn’t plain wrong.

On the other hand, if you want to take pictures of a herd of elk that is grazing in the field after sunset as you quickly pull over from the road, you have about a few seconds before they take off. You pick up your camera and you want to freeze the animal, Auto iso is king.

wdross Loc: Castle Rock, Colorado

Unfortunately increasing the shutter speed would have taken out the blur that I was trying to create. It was this longer stretch of people moving compared to the people standing around in front of the shops that I was trying to capture. Changing to the native ISO of 200 and and going to f8 from f22 would have required an ~5 stop change. This would have changed a 2 second streched blur to an almost no blur 1/8 second. This would not have depicted the true feel of hustle and bustle. It would just look like I had chosen too slow a shutter speed. What I really needed was a 3 stop or 6 stop neutral density filter. Of course I didn't have neutral density filters for the rented lens and nor would I have time in the five minutes to put one on. The camera was pushed to it limits by me and successfully capture the shot I wanted even if not perfectly. Without shutter mode and auto ISO, I would have never gotten the shot.

dennis2146 Loc: Eastern Idaho

Sorry my friend but you asked for an explanation of why we shoot with a fixed ISO. Both Gene51 and I told you exactly why we shoot with a fixed ISO and why it works for us. I further told you that you are free to do as you wish if that works for you but we liked our way best. How plain can that be?

Here you are, still, asking why we cannot explain if our way is the only way. Neither of us ever said our way was the only way. I don’t know where that came from. Surely not from us or anybody else.

Who has said ISO has nothing to do with exposure. It has everything to do with exposure as does shutter speed and aperture. You say you just want to ask questions and have a discussion. You asked the same question a few times and received answers. It isn’t that you are forcing us to do anything but it seems you are unable to accept the answers given.

There are many differences of opinion in the world of photography. Some keep photos on SD cards for a long time while others download photos onto their computer and format the card immediately. Some format their card in camera while others format on the computer. Neither method is wrong yet it apparently matters to each photographer. I like using a fixed ISO as it works perfectly for me over 60 years of taking pictures. Apparently you enjoy using a variable ISO because that method works for you. No argument here.

Dennis

topcat Loc: Alameda, CA

I use auto ISO a lot. It is another variable, along with aperture and shutter speed. I go into my menu and set the range that I am comfortable with.
I find that I like using it on manual the best because I can set the SS and f-stop. This works best when I am doing something like photographing birds.
With the newer cameras, ISO is good far beyond the old 100 ISO.
It is just another tool like auto SS and auto f-stop.

topcat Loc: Alameda, CA

dandi Loc: near Seattle, WA

rbmitch123

Thank you. It has been elucidating.

gessman Loc: Colorado

Thank you sir.

gessman Loc: Colorado

Thank you for taking the time to comment. I just tried this one afternoon and haven't revisited it as of yet to see just what the lowest settings I can get away with, which I fully intended to do. Perhaps I can experiment some more this Spring if we get any chickadees here again. I think the background is going to remain problematic, however. I was shooting north on a bright day and the green are the small and sparse leaves of an old Locust tree about fifty feet north of the bird location. Chickadees move so fast that I would be surprised if I will ever catch them with lower settings than I used and auto ISO, which promises to set at the lowest possible to compliment aperture and shutter speed bumped up to the upper limit of the range I set for it which sorta tells me that this may be about as good as it gets with my camera. Thanks for the suggestions and I'll keep them in mind.

Thrawn John Loc: Scotland

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