Constant ETTR...
CHG_CANON wrote:
As has been said so many many times that it starts to get tiring to say it again: if you (a) shoot in raw and (b) experiment with your specific camera and your PP skills, you can learn where the limit exists for exposing to the right for an image verses the camera meter and still retain relevant highlights that can be recovered in post. That limit can be anywhere from +1 to +3 over the meter's 0-mark, depending on the camera and the situation. A white ibis in sun may be -1, depending on your metering mode. The exact value does depend in the situation and not just a global +1 expectation. The result of ETTR is you have more details in the digital file for both shadows and highlights without losing all details in the highlights. You're going to edit your RAW file regardless, so seek to maximize the data / details available.
As has been said so many many times that it starts... (
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So that would explain billnikon's comment about retaining detail when shooting white bif at -1. Ok. I think I'm starting to get it if this impending nap don't blow it all out. As you can see, I didn't heed your admonishment to pay better attention to what I read.
via the lens wrote:
And, "another view" on the subject. I have noticed, or so it seems, that often when my image has been taken more toward the "dark side," that the image lacks the very bright tone that some of my other images have that are taken more on the "light side." It seems to me that jpg images also have this darker tone. The darker tone is fine with some images but not for those images when I want to say "bright," and "happy," and give it a lighter feeling. I don't think I can get the bright tone from an image that is shot underexposed. But, then again, I could, of course, be wrong.
And, "another view" on the subject. I h... (
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Brightness is something that I deem to be important too. Thanks for that observation.
RRS wrote:
After reading all of the posts it has really made me think, thanks! I do understand ETTR/ETTL and how it's supposed to work. I see many photographers setting everything up, shooting in manual, controlling the shutter speed to freeze action, aperture for depth of field, metering off the brightest spot they want to retain detail in and only to end with "I'm shooting auto ISO". To me this would be like mixing all the ingredients to bake a cake and then forgetting to put it in the oven. I would think that a constant ETTR or ETTL could be used if your meter was found to be off by diligent testing and some cameras do have an adjustment to fix that. All of my light meters also have an adjustment to set the meter. Back to why a photographer is hired, it's not the camera but his/her knowledge of how to use it.
After reading all of the posts it has really made ... (
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I'm glad you're getting clarity 'cause I'm getting confusion.
gessman wrote:
Ok. Thank you for sharing that. I'm starting to go a little cross-eyed but if I got what you said, your technique seems to run counter to the idea of ETTR for detail retention in light (white) areas, but if it works, it's all good.
Again, it depends on the metering mode. If his white egret is against a dark background, and he meters the WHOLE scene, the white areas might well be overexposed if he doesn't reduce the exposure from what the meter tells him.
gessman wrote:
So that would explain billnikon's comment about retaining detail when shooting white bif at -1. Ok. I think I'm starting to get it if this impending nap don't blow it all out. As you can see, I didn't heed your admonishment to pay better attention to what I read.
It's not apples to apples and even harder to "see" what one means from an partial anecdote about exposure method. What did he meter on, the spot of the white of the bird and underexposed that? Or, the entire scene of which the bird was a percentage and underexposed from that metering?
Does the person saying to underexpose mean that they need to process or don't desire to process the image? Or, does it mean they have to increase the exposure in post to get back to a white bird with feather details? If / when processed, what do the shadows and image noise look like in that processed image? Have they tried exposing for the highlights and kept the brightest spots in the image at or just below where the highlights blow? When processed to completion, how does that image compare?
Again, you can't compare one person's high-level description of their method to another's without both seeing the results and analyzing / understanding the different methods used to create each result. Otherwise, you simply have the run of the mill 10-page UHH thread ...
selmslie wrote:
I looked at it using RawDigger.
Most cameras and meters place middle gray (Zone V) between a 14-bit raw value of 1000 and 2000. That puts Zone VI at 2000-4000, Zone VII at 4000-8000 (where the histogram reaches the end of the display for JPEG) and Zone XIII between 8000 and 16000 (the upper limit for the raw file).
These values are not precise but close enough for most cameras. There is no Zone IX for digital raw.
If you have an older 12-bit raw camera, the upper limit for raw and JPEG are at a value of about 4000. You cannot recover highlights because with 12-bit raw there is no Zone VIII. Zone VII is the limit.
I looked at it using RawDigger. br br Most camera... (
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Thanks, selmsie. I appreciate you doing that.
Exactly!!! However, as with film to determine the amount of development time to achieve the necessary values, digital requires controlled testing to determine one's camera's capabilities. Once that is done, there is no worry about blowing highlights.
--Bob
srt101fan wrote:
As I understand it, it's not really a theory; it's simply applying the Zone System to digital photography. Spot meter the brightest part (which would then record as middle gray) and increase the exposure to place the bright area in the desired zone.
CHG_CANON wrote:
Gessman, do you mean "right" as in directionally right on the histogram / right of the 0-mark on the meter? Or, do you mean "right" as in "correct" with minimal adjustments in post beyond the RAW to JPEG conversion and application of many of the same defaults as the camera would have applied?
I'm not big on analogies, but imagine a flawless block of white marble the great masters would seek for use for their sculptures of Venus, Apollo and the group. The potential of the final result resides in that rock, but also in the sculpting tools and in the imagination of their mind. A skilled artist / craftsman should be able to harvest a great result out of any marble suitable for the purpose, but some inputs will be better for the purpose than others. The ETTR approach is intended to generate maximum data into a RAW file for that similar crafting process during post.
Everyone has different tastes for the end result as well as the effort needed to achieve their own definition of the correct result. An internet message board is not the most practical method to show an example of the end-result differences from an image at "normal" exposure vs the processed results of an ETTR RAW image, particularly given the differences in software tools, individual editing skill, and the capabilities of all the different camera models. Many newer high-end Nikon models seem to have invalidated the limitations of upping the brightness in post, a detrimental approach that still applies to older Nikon models as well as most other camera brands.
Your "pro" that started this discussion has found an approach that maximizes their unique combination of camera, software and skill. They may have misstated the universal aspects of their approach or you may have misheard / misunderstood. Guessing what they meant from our remote position is even more problematic, although many of us subscribe to the general ETTR idea.
Gessman, do you mean "right" as in direc... (
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Thanks for the reply. Sorry for the sloppy words regarding "right ." I meant "right" as you described it here: "...right" as in "correct" with minimal adjustments in post beyond the RAW to JPEG conversion and application of many of the same defaults as the camera would have applied?" I think that paraphrases what Gene51 said he does and it seems to raise the question of either leaving something on the table either when shooting or doing post and it made me wonder if you don't "get it right" in the camera what are the chances you can make it right in post and where are the boundaries where that's no longer possible, how many stops of latitude is available, if that's a fair question.
Good analogy! I may have simply misunderstood his intended message. It could have been prefaced with a comment about shooting a certain limited range of subject matter in a stable environment and I just didn't pick up on it. As I said, the comment that stuck with me didn't have much of an impact on me when I read it but it kept coming to the forefront. I'm probably just not thinking broadly enough about the whole thing. I probably don't need to state the obvious which is that I'm not all that serious a student of photography and don't devote that much time to it but some things just seem to be in conflict now and then. That is probably due to what you said about the advent of all the different ways people do things within the realm. Sometimes it's hard for me to accept that because it seems to offer an inadequate explanation for why some are so good and others not so much.
I tend to equate the good ones with those who know what they're doing and do it right, you know? Maybe that's an oversimplification since there is so much variance with different training, devotion, motivation, equipment, and the ready availability of comparable and differing subject matter. Regardless of training, skill, talent, devotion, and equipment it's just pretty stinkin' hard to get a majestic snow capped mountain range shot in northwest Texas.
Thanks for taking your time on the detailed response. I do appreciate it as well as what you observably do on a daily basis which is to share a lot of good information. You certainly know your stuff and will likely never come to know what the true value what you share is to many people.
I just posted Another ETTR Discussion to avoid clouding this conversation. Instead of a lot of theoretical discourses, I simply posted photographs done with the technique.
https://www.uglyhedgehog.com/t-573233-1.html--Bob
gessman wrote:
I recently saw a statement made by a seasoned pro that he shoots everything in Raw with +1.5 exposure comp because that's where white sits on the spectrum and therefore his whites are always spot on and very little is ever blown out. I haven't tried it yet but at first glance it would seem to have some merit. On one hand it sounds a little prerposterous to suggest that would be a valid approach but wouldn't that just be the same thing as ETTR? (Exposing To The Right) Anyone care to discuss this idea?
I recently saw a statement made by a seasoned pro ... (
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I might put together something similar to Bob's white bird on dark background, above. I had one example Ibis in my edit queue this afternoon that maybe will work as an example. A similar post from the past that tried for 'ETTR in Practice' can be found at:
https://www.uglyhedgehog.com/t-567344-1.html
jackm1943 wrote:
I haven't read any of the comments because I know that by page 3 they have usually gone completely off track. But yes, this would be ETTR provided nothing is blown out. I have found that with my camera (Canon 6D2), +1.5 is typically how far I can go without blowing out highlights. That can change from scene to scene so recently I have been trying to bracket around ETTR hoping to get one useable image to work with. This, of course, is for scenic type shots with the camera on a tripod.
Now, I'll read other's comments.
I haven't read any of the comments because I know ... (
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Thank you. Good information. Photography seems to be one of those things that, like Chg_Canon said, most of us work out our own methods but since most of us do it alone, I'm wondering if many of us, having worked out our own methods, are not doing pretty much the same thing. Two days ago, after this came up, I set my Sony a6500 at +1.5 and took some shots inside my home which is pretty dark, using different meter modes and metering with spot on the brightest parts of the walls around the room. The images look pretty good on the lcd, although a bit light. I haven't processed them yet to see exactly what I got and whether or not I can pull up all the detail and tonal values in the room. I'm going to experiment some more outside in different light and see what I come up with.
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