Ugly Hedgehog - Photography Forum
Home Active Topics Newest Pictures Search Login Register
Photo Analysis
Follow up to frustrated, frustrated, frustrated.
Page <prev 2 of 3 next>
Jul 31, 2012 15:52:39   #
twowindsbear
 
Try using a small piece of aluminum foil, molded to your camera, in front of the built-in flash - to BLOCK the light from hitting your subject & to reflect the light to your slave flash to trigger it.

Good luck & keep shooting!

Reply
Jul 31, 2012 16:09:01   #
Clicker2014 Loc: Canada
 
coatachrome wrote:
Hello Deanna hg, Coatachrome here.

Lighting subjects for photography is an art, not a science. I would first start by looking at a very basic three light system. If you do a google search for "three light portrait photography" you should find many resources on how, where and why to place your lighting. Your speedlight is a good "fill" light but it does not make a good single source for the results you may be looking for.

You can improve your light source easily at the hardware department store. Purchase three compact florescent lightbulb and make sure they are daylight bulbs not soft white. 100 watt bulbs should work well for your workspace. You can pick up three inexpensive aluminum reflectors to put the bulbs in and difuse the light with a simple piece of white paper taped across the reflector. In my very first workroom I used the backs of chairs as places to mount my lighting source.

I see two problems in your workspace. First your backdrop the floor and the furniture. They will all cast a yellow hue to your finished photo. You're going to need to do a bit or adjusting to your cameras white balance settings to compensate for all that "stuff" that will alter your lighting color. However that is the beauty of digital photography, you can expirement, adjust, and evaluate instanly.

The other problem is spacing. You're going to need to get a bit more space between your subject and your backdrop to reduce the shadows that the flash will create. Sometimes adjusting the angle of the flash will help, sometimes increasing the wattage of the blub you use to flood your backdrop will help. Here again, you will need to experiment.

Do not get frustrated. In my photography classes I would devote two classes on basic lighting setup alone. As I said, it is an art, not a science. And much of the detail work takes place in the post-processing of the image, an area that many of "instant gratification generation", "point and shoot oriented" students just do not want to hear about.

But you can get great results without post processing using a basic three light setup and your strobe/flash unit.
Hello Deanna hg, Coatachrome here. br br Lighting... (show quote)


My! What great info! Thanks...I am going to copy and past that into word for future use! Cheers!

Reply
Jul 31, 2012 16:11:36   #
mgstrawn Loc: Atlanta, GA
 
RTR wrote:
I think you can reduce the shadow by moving the subject farther away from the background. Maybe CaptainC will chime in. I know he has the correct answers.


That will make a huge difference!

Reply
 
 
Jul 31, 2012 18:51:17   #
Newfie-1 Loc: Ontario-Canada
 
In my studio the subject is 7" from the background, and I use a small background light to look after any shadows.I never use the pop-up flash to trigger other lights. I use a small cheap flash on camera pointing straight up at the ceiling to trigger other lights. I use a Quantum radio slave trigger now but its costly. Hope this helps...

Reply
Aug 2, 2012 02:06:17   #
marcomarks Loc: Ft. Myers, FL
 
deanna_hg wrote:
For those of you who looked at my last thread here concerning studio lighting, this is the 'follow up'. I used my grandson who is 3 and tried it again. Used my 50mm the entire time which may have been the first nono. Was using my speedlite as my lighting, it being triggered by my camera's flash. My understanding is it is suppose to send out the signal but not flash. I think it is flashing. Used a white umbrella turning it to where the light bounces back to the subject and then for it to filter thru to the subject. I was at child level as evidence by some unlevel shots. Someone please tell me how to correct that in Elements. The shadows are frustrating me telling me this is a picture and not a 'portrait'. I have included my 'work space' which I mentioned in my last thread, and a photo of this endeavor. Many said the last photos were to 'busy'. So what now?
For those of you who looked at my last thread here... (show quote)


Your external flash flashes when it "sees" flash from your internal flash most likely.

I was told when doing green screen photography to insert different backgrounds in editing that the subject should be 6 feet in front of the green screen so shadows don't occur on the screen and green doesn't leak onto the subject. And that the background should be lit separately from the sides behind the subject to help avoid shadows.

Hope that helps.

Reply
Aug 2, 2012 09:59:27   #
deanna_hg Loc: So. Alabama
 
Thanks to each of you for your input. I've moaned and groaned about my space or lack of. I've got a three light setup that I haven't used more than one light because I can't get more than one set up in my space. I've got lots of helpful info from y'all and I greatly appreciate it. :)

Reply
Aug 2, 2012 12:06:20   #
Lucian Loc: From Wales, living in Ohio
 
seven inches from the background Newfie 1 ??? That is virtually against the wall and should never been done that close, regardless of lights on the background.

At seven inches away, I don't see how anyone could even get a background light in that space to light it up and reduce the shadow. Be at least a few feet away from your background.

Reply
 
 
Aug 2, 2012 13:56:52   #
Jusoljoe Loc: Texas
 
Lots of good information here...and lots of words...If you'd like some illustrated examples (lots of them) try youtube. In your search type "lighting, youtube" and you will be presented with many choices. Peruse these and choose the most apt for your situation. There is more than you could ever want to know...with video tutorials!!
Joe

Reply
Aug 2, 2012 17:11:27   #
PalePictures Loc: Traveling
 
deanna_hg wrote:
My thanks to all for jumping in to help me here. :)


Don't give up. Reflective umbreallas have there usage just not usually with children indoors. As mentioned above to much specular highlights. Would have been better to shoot away from the background. The softer the light the better the photo. I shoot an umbrella with a diffuser sometimes outdoors. (Apollo Orb). I would also agree you can make some great pictures with one light, one light and a reflector, naturaul light...... It just has to be the right light at the right place with the right subject. Keep working at it. We all improve with time if we change what we do. Listen to the advice here and take it with a grain of salt. Especially mine.

Reply
Aug 2, 2012 17:27:14   #
PalePictures Loc: Traveling
 
Lucian wrote:
seven inches from the background Newfie 1 ??? That is virtually against the wall and should never been done that close, regardless of lights on the background.

At seven inches away, I don't see how anyone could even get a background light in that space to light it up and reduce the shadow. Be at least a few feet away from your background.


Unless your background is the light. I use an octobox on occaisions as my background to give a solid white background.

I think I usually keep it about a foot though.

I also shoot 8-10 feet from the background sometimes. This give no background aka Black. (you gotta watch that spill light when you do that!)

Reply
Aug 2, 2012 21:54:17   #
deanna_hg Loc: So. Alabama
 
Thanks joe and palepictures. I will be youtubing it soon, still got the grands at the house, gotta find the time which I think I'll have soon. I thought I was far enough from the background. I know if I had lowered the backdrop I don't know if there would have been enough on the ground to have provided what I needed. It is big but not super. Again I appreciate all the input/help.

Reply
 
 
Aug 2, 2012 23:26:38   #
Lucian Loc: From Wales, living in Ohio
 
Think about it, all you need is perhaps a foot at best, above the head of your subject. Looking at the size of your backdrop and the size of your subject matter, you have more than enough backdrop to bring it under your subject. A point to remember though, bring it in from the bottom and under your subject, but in a curved manner, not a sharp edged transition from backdrop to floor covering. I hope you understand what I'm trying to get across to you.

Reply
Aug 3, 2012 10:30:30   #
deanna_hg Loc: So. Alabama
 
Lucian wrote:
Think about it, all you need is perhaps a foot at best, above the head of your subject. Looking at the size of your backdrop and the size of your subject matter, you have more than enough backdrop to bring it under your subject. A point to remember though, bring it in from the bottom and under your subject, but in a curved manner, not a sharp edged transition from backdrop to floor covering. I hope you understand what I'm trying to get across to you.


Thanks Lucian :-)

Reply
Aug 5, 2012 11:52:59   #
JKF159 Loc: Arkansas
 
Hi Deanna, It's been awhile since I have visited UHH but your thread caught my eye. I went back and reviewed your first frustrated thread so that I would have a better idea of your level of experience before I offered a comment.

The advice that I would offer to you is to get several books on light, lighting devices and their use. Study them until you are very familiar with the science of light.

Practice makes perfect is always good advice but it is perfect practice that makes perfect. Throwing some lights up and taking thousands of shots will not really teach you anything. If you get lucky and produce a few good shots you will not be able to duplicate them with any degree of regularity. That is what separates a true pro photographer from the hobbyist. A pro has to produce high quality on demand under varied conditions. Even though you are not a pro, my point is that the professional accomplishes their goal by having intimate knowledge of the science of light and then and only then do they attempt to apply this in an artistic way.

The accomplished photographers that read this will all agree that you can make some progress through the trial and error method and they did a lot of that themselves. Trial and error, however, is different than practice. Practice is being armed with the knowledge and correct technique and putting it to use over and over again. Attempting to figure out the concept of portrait lighting by trial and error is akin to practing your golf swing with your eyes closed. If you swing at enough balls you will occasionally hit a few and you might even get a good shot off occasionally but it will always result in limited and very inconsistent success.

I can see that you have an artistic eye. It is obvious that you have a photograph in mind when you are shooting and that is most of what it takes to be a good photographer, but seeing the photo is still only part of it. You need to be armed with the science to accomplish it. A book is the very best place to learn the science.

Reply
Aug 5, 2012 12:29:48   #
deanna_hg Loc: So. Alabama
 
JKF159 wrote:
Hi Deanna, It's been awhile since I have visited UHH but your thread caught my eye. I went back and reviewed your first frustrated thread so that I would have a better idea of your level of experience before I offered a comment.

The advice that I would offer to you is to get several books on light, lighting devices and their use. Study them until you are very familiar with the science of light.

Practice makes perfect is always good advice but it is perfect practice that makes perfect. Throwing some lights up and taking thousands of shots will not really teach you anything. If you get lucky and produce a few good shots you will not be able to duplicate them with any degree of regularity. That is what separates a true pro photographer from the hobbyist. A pro has to produce high quality on demand under varied conditions. Even though you are not a pro, my point is that the professional accomplishes their goal by having intimate knowledge of the science of light and then and only then do they attempt to apply this in an artistic way.

The accomplished photographers that read this will all agree that you can make some progress through the trial and error method and they did a lot of that themselves. Trial and error, however, is different than practice. Practice is being armed with the knowledge and correct technique and putting it to use over and over again. Attempting to figure out the concept of portrait lighting by trial and error is akin to practing your golf swing with your eyes closed. If you swing at enough balls you will occasionally hit a few and you might even get a good shot off occasionally but it will always result in limited and very inconsistent success.

I can see that you have an artistic eye. It is obvious that you have a photograph in mind when you are shooting and that is most of what it takes to be a good photographer, but seeing the photo is still only part of it. You need to be armed with the science to accomplish it. A book is the very best place to learn the science.
Hi Deanna, It's been awhile since I have visited U... (show quote)

My sincere thanks for your comment and instructions. It has been a trip in frustration and I have been purchasing some books to read. I value all the instructions I can get in order for me to improve my photos.
:-)

Reply
Page <prev 2 of 3 next>
If you want to reply, then register here. Registration is free and your account is created instantly, so you can post right away.
Photo Analysis
UglyHedgehog.com - Forum
Copyright 2011-2024 Ugly Hedgehog, Inc.