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Canon 100 - 400 questions
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Aug 21, 2018 20:24:30   #
gordone Loc: Red Deer AB Canada
 
Totally agree. The 1/4000 at ISO 2000 is totally a waste of image quality potential. With that lens/camera go F8 and ISO 400 and if it gets below 1/50s for stationary subjects then increase ISO a bit. F8 will give you a better depth of field than say the F5.6 at the long end with that lens.

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Aug 22, 2018 00:03:15   #
robertjerl Loc: Corona, California
 
jeep_daddy wrote:
To be honest, you probably could shoot most of these stills, along with the deer since it was just grazing, at a shutter of 1/60-1/120th and had the ISO much much lower. A lower ISO means less noise, and the noise can cause an image to not look sharp. Also, I don't know about the lens you were using, but most have image stability which will give you at least 2 more stops of hand holding ability which translates to a longer shutter duration than you'd normally be able to hand hold at "x" focal length.
To be honest, you probably could shoot most of the... (show quote)


Hey Jeep, the thread title is "Canon 100-400 questions" - that might be a hint what lens was used. Ya think?

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Aug 22, 2018 11:24:25   #
Photolady2014 Loc: Southwest Colorado
 
gordone wrote:
Totally agree. The 1/4000 at ISO 2000 is totally a waste of image quality potential. With that lens/camera go F8 and ISO 400 and if it gets below 1/50s for stationary subjects then increase ISO a bit. F8 will give you a better depth of field than say the F5.6 at the long end with that lens.


Thanks, I'm trying to figure out how to do shutter or aperture priority and get the depth of field I want and not too high ISO. Struggling a little with what mode to use... but practicing and got a few more that are good. Just using the deer as test subjects as they are there every morning!


(Download)


(Download)

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Aug 22, 2018 11:47:03   #
gordone Loc: Red Deer AB Canada
 
Use AV mode and F8 and ISO 400

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Aug 22, 2018 13:28:41   #
Photolady2014 Loc: Southwest Colorado
 
gordone wrote:
Use AV mode and F8 and ISO 400


I will give that a try!

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Aug 22, 2018 13:55:42   #
gordone Loc: Red Deer AB Canada
 
Use single focus point in the center. If you use a group of focus points it will pick whatever is closed (for example the deers right ear tip instead of the center of its eye

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Aug 22, 2018 14:29:55   #
loosecanon Loc: Central Texas
 
Now you're seeing what the lens can do. That first deer picture is very sharp. Nice deer.

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Aug 30, 2018 17:26:54   #
birdpix Loc: South East Pennsylvania
 
AI-Servo is the correct setting to use, NOT one shot. When working with such a long lens as close as you need to be, depth of field is very shallow. Any movement of either the bee or the camera that changes the lens to subject distance will result in an out of focus bee. AI-Servo will allow the lens to adjust focus as the distance changes. I might consider using not spot focus but expanded point focus. That uses one main focus point with 4 surrounding points to assist. As the bee moves around a bit in the center of the frame, the camera will track the bee. Another setting that may help is to use AF case 2 that delays refocusing when the focus points briefly leave the subject.

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Aug 31, 2018 20:37:20   #
Photolady2014 Loc: Southwest Colorado
 
birdpix wrote:
AI-Servo is the correct setting to use, NOT one shot. When working with such a long lens as close as you need to be, depth of field is very shallow. Any movement of either the bee or the camera that changes the lens to subject distance will result in an out of focus bee. AI-Servo will allow the lens to adjust focus as the distance changes. I might consider using not spot focus but expanded point focus. That uses one main focus point with 4 surrounding points to assist. As the bee moves around a bit in the center of the frame, the camera will track the bee. Another setting that may help is to use AF case 2 that delays refocusing when the focus points briefly leave the subject.
AI-Servo is the correct setting to use, NOT one sh... (show quote)


Thanks!

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Aug 31, 2018 21:20:30   #
birdpix Loc: South East Pennsylvania
 
There are a couple of responses that mention confusion about spot AF with the Canon 5d Mk IV. The square with the tiny dot in the middle is called "spot focus" and it uses a very small area of the focus sensor. It can be very useful when you need to be precise with the location you wish to focus on. BUT, it is not very good at tracking moving objects. The single box with no dot is called single point focus and uses a larger area to focus on. It is still rather small but extends just a bit beyond the edges of the square. It is much better at tracking movement and is the better choice to match with AI-Servo.

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Sep 6, 2018 15:39:17   #
Photolady2014 Loc: Southwest Colorado
 
birdpix wrote:
There are a couple of responses that mention confusion about spot AF with the Canon 5d Mk IV. The square with the tiny dot in the middle is called "spot focus" and it uses a very small area of the focus sensor. It can be very useful when you need to be precise with the location you wish to focus on. BUT, it is not very good at tracking moving objects. The single box with no dot is called single point focus and uses a larger area to focus on. It is still rather small but extends just a bit beyond the edges of the square. It is much better at tracking movement and is the better choice to match with AI-Servo.
There are a couple of responses that mention confu... (show quote)


Thanks!

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Sep 24, 2018 07:20:38   #
MikeT9
 
Don’t forget that when you use A-I Servo, you also start using one of the six Af tracking cases that can have quite an effect on how the focus locks on. Also in the menu you find settings for focus priority when you take a shot. This sets the priority of shutter release or focus when you take the picture. I know people go on about bbf and this was my method way back. Now with cameras like the 5Div and the IDX ii the cameras are quick enough to focus with the need to use bbf.

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Oct 5, 2018 14:37:45   #
DanielB Loc: San Diego, Ca
 
Although smaller apertures do increase your depth of field that depth of field get smaller the more you zoom in. This is why in macro photography you get better results from focus stacking than single shots. Your 100-400 is better suited for standard zoom shots than macro / super close ups. I think if you shoot around the 200mm range you may get better results. Just a thought...
Photolady2014 wrote:
This is the newer version of the Canon 100-400 I just got and I’m not sure if it is my technique or what but photos just seem soft too many times. All are at 1/1000 and ISO 1000 which the Canon 5D M IV should be able to handle. So the first bee, it is very cropped the whole thing is just soft or not in focus. Second bee, I really had the little box right on the bee and it seemed to focus to the right. Flowers, most my flowers just seem soft to me all the time. Wasp, at at f10 shouldn't the whole thing be in focus? The back end seems to be... Deer noise and just not that sharp. Last hummingbird, I do get photos like this that makes me think ok I do like this lens. So I was in shutter priority, this camera always seems to overexpose so I had it set to underexpose a little. I was also in Al Servo for most, occasionally I did switch out, but most except the deer were most likely in Al Servo. You can't get really close to things like the bee so cropping is necessary.
What technique should be used to get sharp photos? Am I too picky, not good at focusing (use auto focus and hand held). Anyway, what ever anyone does that has this lens to get good results on a more regular basis I would really like to know!
Thanks for your time. Will check tomorrow to see if anyone has suggestions.
Beth
This is the newer version of the Canon 100-400 I j... (show quote)

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Oct 7, 2018 22:30:30   #
Strodav Loc: Houston, Tx
 
kubota king wrote:
I always check a new lens connected to my camera for proper focus point . Did you do a focus test to see if your lens is back focusing / front focusing , just to rule out camera / lens miss match



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Oct 11, 2018 11:48:55   #
cheineck Loc: Hobe Sound, FL
 
kubota king wrote:
I always check a new lens connected to my camera for proper focus point . Did you do a focus test to see if your lens is back focusing / front focusing , just to rule out camera / lens miss match


I do that with every lens on my Mark IV... makes a hack of a difference. I don't do aa "scientific" test, just shot with the camera on a tripod and shoot the same image area with the macro adjustment starting at minus 15 and step up in 5 points until I reach +15 or 20, then compare the shots and let my eye judge which is sharpest. Works!!!!

Also, the focus point in the viewfinder tends to jump with my shaky hands so I tried back button focus with great success. Good luck!!!

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