Photolady2014 Loc: Southwest Colorado

Yes, I need to learn how to do the BBF. My eyes are not that fast/great and I have a hard time trusting what I think is in focus while taking the photo. I don't like manual focus for that reason. Also, sometimes the birds etc are far enough away that I can't tell especially if they are moving when the right part is in focus other than putting the little square on their face and hearing the beep beep. I do want to give it a try however and appreciate the thoughts.

Photolady2014 Loc: Southwest Colorado

Ok, I'll give that a try. I think it is my technique that needs work!

Gampa

I have the newer version of this lens and it’s tach sharp with my 80D.
Most of the images you posted were very close up macro types shots. Close focusing with any lens (including true macro lenses) produces a VERY shallow depth of field that you have to work with. That may be your problem.
Try focusing it in daylight from further distances ... and I think you’ll see how good the lens is.

lrn2bgd Loc: Ct.

Definitely remove any filter you may be currently using. I now remove the UV filter, shoot with just the Canon glass and when finished put the UV filter back on the lens. Additional work but the images seem clearer with finer detail now and I compromised on the UV filter protecting my lens. Hand holding could still be a concern but try 1 correction at a time.

jeep_daddy Loc: Prescott AZ

The first thing I'll say is that yes, I think you are being a little too critical with your images. Second, you need to adjust the ISO according to the shutter speed you need and lighting conditions. I noticed one had a shutter speed of 1/8000th (maybe 1/4000th My memory is bad). Anyway this is too high and you really don't need or want a shutter speed this high. Another thing I'll say is that when you get a new long lens like this, you need practice and more practice. You need to hone your skills, hone your technique, and whenever possible use a tripod or monopod for a more steady picture. Next, never never never use One Shot focus unless you are doing studio portraits. You should always use AI Servo. And NEVER EVER use AI Focus. NEVER EVER!!!! This is one of Canons biggest blunders and they even have the gaul to set your camera to this focus setting by default. Bad Bad Canon. Anyway, I have known this forever but it was actually confirmed by a Canon instructor at a seminar I attended yesterday in Irvine.

Next, you really should be shooting bursts on all animals. Shoot 10-20 shots at a time. You never know when you might get that shot that is really in focus and the wings, or head or eyes of the animal will be in JUST the right position. You aren't paying for film and it really only takes a few minutes to cull through your images to select the best of the best. Leave the rest and just select the best. I use a rating system when culling through them. Next, you need to realize that this is a long lens. When using a long lens, DOF is not the same as on a wide angle lens. Your focus is VERY critical so I'd also recommend using the small dot size single focus point that Canon has. Not the single square, but the point focus dot. I don't know what the heck it's called but it's even finer than the square. Alway try to put the focus point on the eye or head of the animal.

So in short, use only as much ISO as needed, use the finest focus point, stop down on larger animals if you need more DOF (like on Pelicans in flight), use a mono or tripod, use burst mode and fine point focus, shoot in raw so you can sharpen the images in post for better sharper images, practice, practice practice, use AI-Servo 99% of the time and Never Ever use AI-Focus, and don't be a pixel peeper.

Have fun.

PS - I have this same lens and camera. I use that lens on my 5D IV and a 7D II. I use this lens 90% of the time and I have a 500mm f/4 lens that cost over $7k that this has virtually replaced. I may have to sell my 500mm lens. But I still love it.

Photolady2014 Loc: Southwest Colorado

I am not using any filter. Will use the hood to protect front as much as possible!

Photolady2014 Loc: Southwest Colorado

Thank you for all this. Maybe I said it wrong but I was using AI-Servo. I also use the single square. I think you mean the single square with dot in the middle? I was not sure what the difference was.. Also, when I right click on a photo and get info every one said 1/1000 for shutter speed, where did you see 1/4000 or 8000? What is your thought on larger animals. I was shooting mountain goats and a pro wildlife guy was there & gave me tips. He said for larger animals he always uses the square with one square all the way around. Said he gets more keepers with that focus than the spot one. He also said use AI-Servo. Others in this thread do not recommend that... Anyway, I need more practice and yes burst shots would be a good idea. Thanks for your time.

bluezzzzz Loc: Stamping Ground, KY

I believe jeep_daddy is spot on with his observations and recommendations.

My areas of interest are wildlife, birds, and BIF, with a 5Dmk4, 100-400 II zoom with a 1.4x TC attached. My usual walk-around settings are BBF, 1/1600th, f8, and Auto ISO. At 400mm with the 1.4x TC that makes it 560mm, and the 1/1600th is the best I can usually reliably do hand-held. The f8 is the widest the lens can do and still autofocus (I'm always in AI Servo). It also throws the background more out of focus, which enhances the subject's focus. Matrix or center-weighting metering and Auto ISO takes care of the exposure part. A frequent check of the screen for blinkies and looking at the histogram tells when EV compensation may be needed. I always shoot in RAW which give some leeway to improve in post.

I also shoot with high speed continuous on at all times, even when I intend to take only a single shot. It really promotes a light touch on the shutter button to try and take a single frame when in high-speed continuous mode!

Love my Canon 100-400 II zoom. Any shortcomings in my image files are overwhelmingly my fault rather than the camera/lens combo!

Good luck, you've got a great lens.

robertjerl Loc: Corona, California

OK, by the way the pro was right about AI Focus, after you learn to hold steady or get enough experience to time the little movements as you push the shutter button all the way down. I don't know anyone who can be completely still, let alone when holding a camera and large lens. Breathing, heart beat etc cause little macro movements that are magnified by a long lens. Also, do you use single frame on your drive setting or burst? I use the silent burst setting. It is slower than high speed burst but the mirror etc move a hair slower and make less noise and vibration (on macro with extremely shallow DOF that makes a difference) while still giving you an insurance policy in case of small movements by you, or the subject. Most wildlife/BIF photographers I have met use burst because it allows you a choice of wing/leg etc positions for your final image pick(s). That is one of the greatest things about digital vs film you can shoot so many frames then sort through them for the good ones. Once I shot a series of bursts of two ducks fighting in shallow water (7DII-10fps). The fight lasted almost a minute. I had several hundred frames, about 90% got culled on the first fast edit (my X key on LR got a workout), most of the rest on the second edit leaving me with about 40 frames where the birds, flying mud and water etc had good possibilities.
Having to review and cull a lot of frames can take time, but is usually worth it as no one is fast enough to time single shots when the action is fast and furious.

And before someone jumps in, yes, back in the day a lot of good/great photos got taken & published taken one shot at a time.* They don't mention the bad shots or that the ones published were partly luck, how long it took to get that one shot or the fact they thought of them as "good enough but if the wings were only...". I read an article once long ago in the early 70s by a Nat Geo Photographer on assignment in remote Central Asia for 3 months documenting a nomadic group, he shot a few hundred rolls of film and 11 images made it into the article in Nat Geo.

*Remember the large adapters for 50' or 100' rolls of film and the Motor Drives used mostly by sports photographers? I had a low end Power Winder that did 3 fps, and I self loaded cartridges that held, if I remember right, 42 or 43 frames of color slide film and that thing ate film like it was M&Ms. Being a hobby I only used it on rare occasions, mostly for birds. And the only reason I owned it was I found an Olympus OM-1 body (may have been an OM-2, 20 years since I used it-it may be in a box in the garage) , the drive and two lenses on a pawn shop's sales table at the LA County Fair Grounds during a gun show. I bought it mainly because the body worked with an adapter for a 60X spotting scope I bought cheap at a Police Auction that came with an adapter for Olympus. The body etc at the gun show was the same price I would have paid for an adapter to fit the cameras I already owned.

robertjerl Loc: Corona, California

If you look here https://www.uglyhedgehog.com/t-549011-1.html#9315805 this is a fairly good sample of what the 100-400L mk II can do even at slow SS.
I got this yesterday at a few minutes after 7PM just before sunset. I did a total of about 40 frames in bursts and then culled shots like crazy - one I almost used had the bird's head in a great position and everything was sharp except his beak which was slightly blurred because the bird was turning it's head.

RRS Loc: Not sure

Hi Beth, I've read both pages and the one item that I haven't seen is Micro-adjustment. Have you done a micro-adjustment with this new lens? You can adjust both ends of the lens, at 400mm and also at 100mm. Shooting wide open is where you will see any problems if they are there. I use BBF and shoot off a tripod whenever I can but that isn't always practical. I do also use a video head, Manfrotto 504 on an RRS CF tripod and a cable release for some of the shots that you have taken, you would have to reconfigure the camera controls because when using BBF the cable release will not work . I use spot focus and single shot for subjects that don't move much and AI servo high speed for others. You could also check by using Live View on a stationary subject and then using BBF single/ AI servo high speed and compare one to the other. Sorry, I did miss the one reply on micro adjustment. Look on line under "Lens Align", it will explain all you will need to know. I have a three ring binder with all the test printed out on all lenses, bodies and extenders too. I bought the "Focus Tune" and you will find that also under Lens Align. Enjoy that new lens, I just may buy one for my wife because it's not near as heavy as the 300mm f/2.8 with a 1.4 extender that she is using now.

gordone Loc: Red Deer AB Canada

The 100-400 ii is an amazing lens and is my go-to travel lens on my 7D2. I shoot mostly birds and wildlife with it. The default settings I use are F8 ISO 400 AI Servo IS mode 3, and +1/3 Ev to make sure eyes are not grainy looking. Can always reduce by 1/3 after in post if needed. If you think you need one shot as a try, it is easy to switch if you assign the DOF preview button to toggle between One shot and servo. Just hold it down and it toggles to other one. For macro, it's not the lens or camera or you that is the problem. At 400 mm with your 5D4 and 1m from subject at F11, the depth of field is 2mm which is the size of the wasps eye. Even at F16 it is only 4 mm so it is VERY shallow. So the actual focus point for macro is super critical and if you need more depth of field you will need a tripod and use live view manual focus and focus stack several shots. Not so easy on live creatures. As far as BBF, some like it and some dont- personal preferences. I don't use it because you sit there for 2 hours watching a bird or animal and you have gloves on an trying to keep your fingers on two buttons just does not work. Not to mention severe finger cramps. I assign that button to a manual setting for BIF with auto ISO and 1/1600 s and 5 focus points so as soon as a bird flies I use that button and track the bird. Good luck and keep shooting. Try different thinks and see what works for you

jeep_daddy Loc: Prescott AZ

This one and the deer are not 1/1000th shutter

This one is 1/8000th shutter and the deer is 1/4000th at ISO2000

(Download)

Photolady2014 Loc: Southwest Colorado

You are right, I did not notice that one was faster as well as a deer!

jeep_daddy Loc: Prescott AZ

To be honest, you probably could shoot most of these stills, along with the deer since it was just grazing, at a shutter of 1/60-1/120th and had the ISO much much lower. A lower ISO means less noise, and the noise can cause an image to not look sharp. Also, I don't know about the lens you were using, but most have image stability which will give you at least 2 more stops of hand holding ability which translates to a longer shutter duration than you'd normally be able to hand hold at "x" focal length.