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Canon 100 - 400 questions
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Aug 18, 2018 19:51:58   #
Photolady2014 Loc: Southwest Colorado
 
This is the newer version of the Canon 100-400 I just got and I’m not sure if it is my technique or what but photos just seem soft too many times. All are at 1/1000 and ISO 1000 which the Canon 5D M IV should be able to handle. So the first bee, it is very cropped the whole thing is just soft or not in focus. Second bee, I really had the little box right on the bee and it seemed to focus to the right. Flowers, most my flowers just seem soft to me all the time. Wasp, at at f10 shouldn't the whole thing be in focus? The back end seems to be... Deer noise and just not that sharp. Last hummingbird, I do get photos like this that makes me think ok I do like this lens. So I was in shutter priority, this camera always seems to overexpose so I had it set to underexpose a little. I was also in Al Servo for most, occasionally I did switch out, but most except the deer were most likely in Al Servo. You can't get really close to things like the bee so cropping is necessary.
What technique should be used to get sharp photos? Am I too picky, not good at focusing (use auto focus and hand held). Anyway, what ever anyone does that has this lens to get good results on a more regular basis I would really like to know!
Thanks for your time. Will check tomorrow to see if anyone has suggestions.
Beth

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Aug 18, 2018 20:17:23   #
loosecanon Loc: Central Texas
 
The lens should be extremely sharp. You're not using any kind of filter on it, are you? If so, ditch it. Big difference. I'm also suspicious of the servo focus. Just my two cents.

Former Durangan.

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Aug 18, 2018 20:21:41   #
pmsc70d Loc: Post Falls, Idaho
 
Almost every photo has areas that are tack sharp, but not necessarily the part you want to be. The lens is great, but you might need to work on isolating the area of interest.

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Aug 18, 2018 21:00:56   #
robertjerl Loc: Corona, California
 
Photolady2014 wrote:
This is the newer version of the Canon 100-400 I just got and I’m not sure if it is my technique or what but photos just seem soft too many times. All are at 1/1000 and ISO 1000 which the Canon 5D M IV should be able to handle. So the first bee, it is very cropped the whole thing is just soft or not in focus. Second bee, I really had the little box right on the bee and it seemed to focus to the right. Flowers, most my flowers just seem soft to me all the time. Wasp, at at f10 shouldn't the whole thing be in focus? The back end seems to be... Deer noise and just not that sharp. Last hummingbird, I do get photos like this that makes me think ok I do like this lens. So I was in shutter priority, this camera always seems to overexpose so I had it set to underexpose a little. I was also in Al Servo for most, occasionally I did switch out, but most except the deer were most likely in Al Servo. You can't get really close to things like the bee so cropping is necessary.
What technique should be used to get sharp photos? Am I too picky, not good at focusing (use auto focus and hand held). Anyway, what ever anyone does that has this lens to get good results on a more regular basis I would really like to know!
Thanks for your time. Will check tomorrow to see if anyone has suggestions.
Beth
This is the newer version of the Canon 100-400 I j... (show quote)

The AI servo and not holding it rock steady could be the problem. If you aren't rock steady and the focus point drifts off the subject AI Servo will start changing focus to what it is now pointed at. I would suggest going to single point focus and set the AF on "One Shot". Put the center point on the subject and press halfway, if the point drifts off the subject before the focus is locked then refocus and try again. Set the back panel to show focus point(s) during preview and see just where the focus is when the shutter trips. Many people subconsciously move the camera a small amount when pressing the shutter button and if you are using AI Servo the camera will start to refocus.

As to getting close to bees etc. Well they will move on you but that lens will focus down to less than 3 feet.

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Aug 18, 2018 23:57:56   #
rmorrison1116 Loc: Near Valley Forge, Pennsylvania
 
I'd use single shot af. I have the same camera and lens and have no problem with AF. The hummingbird is quite nice, I don't really see anything wrong with it. You don't really want to freeze the wings and if you do you will need a lot higher shutter speed. The only thing I see that's really takes away from the deer photo is you chopped off the feet.

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Aug 19, 2018 05:56:27   #
EnglishBrenda Loc: Kent, England
 
I noticed you seem to have some negative exposure added in most of the images, maybe more light might help a bit. Have you tried testing it on a tripod shooting something solid and not moving? On the Deer image the wall on the left seems sharp in the front corner, so maybe front focusing a little. I hope you solve it, I have heard that this is an excellent lens.

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Aug 19, 2018 06:31:13   #
kubota king Loc: NW , Pa.
 
I always check a new lens connected to my camera for proper focus point . Did you do a focus test to see if your lens is back focusing / front focusing , just to rule out camera / lens miss match

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Aug 19, 2018 08:24:17   #
imagemeister Loc: mid east Florida
 
Photolady2014 wrote:
what ever anyone does that has this lens to get good results on a more regular basis I would really like to know!
Thanks for your time. Will check tomorrow to see if anyone has suggestions.
Beth


https://www.uglyhedgehog.com/t-269999-1.html

Hand held is very risky business @400mm and close ! Facial stabilization and bodypod will help your AF and compositional accuracies !

As mentioned, single spot AF is the most accurate, but you must be able to CONTROL it !

..

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Aug 19, 2018 08:32:56   #
the f/stops here Loc: New Mexico
 
I have the same equipment and use a different method for focusing. First are you using back button focus? If not, I suggest you do. Your macro images are sharp, very sharp, just not where they should be. With BBF, you move in to your subject, hold the focus button down and let your camera do it’s preliminary auto focus. With your thumb off the auto focus button, you then move your camera it toward the subject and out away from the subject until the part of the subject that your interested in is in focus and the the final step, squeeze the shutter release. I will assure you your macro image quality will improve. You have one of the best lenses Canon makes. Have fun.

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Aug 19, 2018 09:40:08   #
foathog Loc: Greensboro, NC
 
Did you want the bee to be in focus. I noticed that the pistil of the flower was in focus but the bee was not. Guess what you focused on. The wasp's abdomen was in PERFECT focus. I think you needed to be in F16 to increase depth of field. I have that lens. It's great. I use stabilizer #3 for virtually everything. The previous guy is right. LEARN BBF. Once you learn it you will use NOTHING ELSE.

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Aug 19, 2018 10:04:51   #
Photolady2014 Loc: Southwest Colorado
 
robertjerl wrote:
The AI servo and not holding it rock steady could be the problem. If you aren't rock steady and the focus point drifts off the subject AI Servo will start changing focus to what it is now pointed at. I would suggest going to single point focus and set the AF on "One Shot". Put the center point on the subject and press halfway, if the point drifts off the subject before the focus is locked then refocus and try again. Set the back panel to show focus point(s) during preview and see just where the focus is when the shutter trips. Many people subconsciously move the camera a small amount when pressing the shutter button and if you are using AI Servo the camera will start to refocus.

As to getting close to bees etc. Well they will move on you but that lens will focus down to less than 3 feet.
The AI servo and not holding it rock steady could ... (show quote)


Thank you for the thoughts. The reason I went with AI is I ran into a professional wildlife photographer that said use it! So I have tried using it. But I think you are right, I'll go back to AF one shot.

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Aug 19, 2018 10:05:50   #
Photolady2014 Loc: Southwest Colorado
 
rmorrison1116 wrote:
I'd use single shot af. I have the same camera and lens and have no problem with AF. The hummingbird is quite nice, I don't really see anything wrong with it. You don't really want to freeze the wings and if you do you will need a lot higher shutter speed. The only thing I see that's really takes away from the deer photo is you chopped off the feet.


The deer was just for sharpness, not for a good photo thank heavens! No feet is really bad!

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Aug 19, 2018 10:07:26   #
Photolady2014 Loc: Southwest Colorado
 
EnglishBrenda wrote:
I noticed you seem to have some negative exposure added in most of the images, maybe more light might help a bit. Have you tried testing it on a tripod shooting something solid and not moving? On the Deer image the wall on the left seems sharp in the front corner, so maybe front focusing a little. I hope you solve it, I have heard that this is an excellent lens.


Yes I did do negative exposure as otherwise most photos seem blown out or overexposed when using aperture or shutter priority. I think the lens probably is good, I just need better technique.

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Aug 19, 2018 10:08:28   #
Photolady2014 Loc: Southwest Colorado
 
kubota king wrote:
I always check a new lens connected to my camera for proper focus point . Did you do a focus test to see if your lens is back focusing / front focusing , just to rule out camera / lens miss match


No I did not. Probably not that hard to do, just need to see how to do the test... with what etc.

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Aug 19, 2018 10:09:00   #
loosecanon Loc: Central Texas
 
Photolady2014 wrote:
The deer was just for sharpness, not for a good photo thank heavens! No feet is really bad!


Especially for the deer.

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