tommystrat Loc: Bigfork, Montana

I learned the hard way (photographing a rodeo, taking over 300 shots, and ending up with squat for usable images!) that a higher shutter speed (at least 1/1000) is required to minimize camera shake and motion blur on moving subjects and especially when using a tele lens. I see Thomas902's image above at 300mm and 1/2000 second, and am totally jealous of the clarity and sharpness in that image! I used a D7100 with a Nikkor 55-300 f4.5 and most of my shots were around a shutter of 400. I know, I know, but at least I learned something. Anything moving I will only shoot at a minimum of 1/1000 now, and let Auto ISO do its thing. Hope this helps!

PHRubin Loc: Nashville TN USA

For emphasis, all this is rule of thumb. As another previously stated, if the subject is stationary, much slower shutter speeds can be used if you can keep the camera steady. However, to answer the OP's question, when zoomed to 200, then 1/200. When at 70, the 1/70.

sirlensalot Loc: Arizona

While good to keep in the back of your mind, it is merely a thoughtful guide. Nothing takes the place of experience using your equipment.

LoneRangeFinder Loc: Left field

Not only that, think about each situation. What does it require? Someone mentioned sports which I haven't done in quite some time. So it's individual. For me, I travel light intentionally. This often means, by necessity, and by restriction, "no tripod". So sometimes I adjust ISO. This is why I mentioned auto ISO early. I also break the 1/focal length "rule" because I am sometimes able to get what I want hand held at long shutter durations, as long as 1/2 seconds. The OIS on my Fuji 18-55 is amazing & I'm able to get images I could not without image stabilization.

jamesl Loc: Pennsylvania

It depends on the camera you are using too. If it is a cropped sensor camera you need to multiply the focal length by the crop factor of the camera. For Nikon the crop factor is 1.5x and for Canon it is 1.6x. So for example with a cropped sensor Nikon and a 70-200mm lens you would want to use at least 1/100 at 70mm and 1/300 at the 200mm extreme. For a Full sensor camera it would be 1/70 on the short end and 1/200 on the long end.

amfoto1 Loc: San Jose, Calif. USA

The "rule" for shutter speed that will generally help you get a steady shot, avoiding "camera shake" blur issues, is 1/focal length as described.

In other words, if you are using a 70-200mm lens at 70mm, you're minimum shutter speed should be 1/70... or if using it at the 200mm setting it should be 1/200.

HOWEVER, there are many variables:

1. How good are YOU at hand holding? Some people can do better, some worse.

2. Camera shutter speeds are in 1/3 or 1/2 stop or even full stop increments which don't always match up exactly to the focal length. For example, cameras don't have 1/70 shutter speed. Nearly all have 1/60 and 1/125... some also have 1/80 and 1/90. So in the case of a 70mm lens, the minimum choice for most people would be 1/80... if their camera offers one-third stop settings, or 1/90 if it offers half-stop settings.

3. HOWEVER... all these recommendations are for "full frame" cameras. If using a "crop sensor" camera, those effectively magnify the image AND will amplify the effects of any movement as well. If yours is an APS-C camera, that 70mm focal length will "act like 105mm" would on full frame.... both in terms of the angle of view and susceptibility to camera shake, and you'll need to use a bit higher shutter speed (1/100 or 1/125, in this case). If your camera utilizes a micro Four/Thirds sensor, the same 70mm will "act like" and be susceptible to shake equivalent to 140mm on full frame, so use the next higher shutter speed (1/160). If using that 70-200 at 200mm, the rule of thumb with full frame is to use 1/200 shutter speed (which some cameras offer)... or 1/320 with APS-C (closest actual speed to the theoretical 1/300)... or 1/400 on a micro 4/3 sensor camera.

4. FURTHER.... it's been noted that the higher density digital sensors also tend to be more susceptible to camera shake. It was first noted with 15MP, 16MP and 18MP APS-C cameras and hasn't gotten any better since those have gotten even higher resolutions now commonly in the 20MP to 24MP range. No doubt the same is true of smaller micro Four/Thirds sensors in the 16MP range or full frame cameras in the 45MP to 50MP range. Canon issued a white paper about the time the original, 18MP 7D was introduced, recommending using a stop or so higher shutter speeds with the higher resolution cameras.

5. AND... you have to consider ambient conditions. If shooting from a moving vehicle or even one with a motor running that's causing vibrations, a higher shutter speed may be needed to counteract shake. Windy conditions can be a factor, too. Even internal camera vibrations from "mirror slap" or the action of the shutter can reduce image sharpness at some slower shutter speeds. Use "mirror lockup" or Live View, along with a tripod. Don't "stab" at the shutter release button, instead "press" it gently. Or, use a remote release in the more extreme situations.

6. PLUS... all these are merely guidelines that will improve your odds of getting a sharp shot. Even if you are careful, for various reasons there's still a chance that some shots will show camera shake blur. It's just reduced for most people when they follow these guidelines. In challenging situations another technique to increase your odds of getting a sharp shot is to simply take a burst of shots... chances are that at least one will be good. Other important techniques are to hold the camera properly with both hands, use anything nearby that you can to lean against and steady your shot, etc. Practice helps, too.

7. AND... many cameras and/or lenses today have a stabilization feature specifically for the purpose of offsetting camera shake... allowing you to use shutter speeds 2, 3 or even 4 stops slower than you would be able to hand hold without it. This is particularly valuable for powerful telephotos, but is now also being included on and is beneficial with shorter focal lengths that are more easily held steady. Even some ultrawides that you might find hand-holdable at 1/30 or slower shutter speeds are now seeing stabilization added (Canon 10-18mm IS, Nikon 10-20mm VR and Tamron 10-24mm VC are the first ultrawides to have stabilization).

Nothing is perfect. Even if you have all the latest and greatest tools, use great technique and plenty of practice, and carefully follow all the recommendations... "stuff happens". You can increase your odds of a sharp shot quite a bit... but never completely eliminate the possibility of an occasional shake blurred shot.

And all this has nothing what-so-ever to do with freezing SUBJECT MOVEMENT. Depending upon the speed and direction the subject is moving, a higher shutter speed may be needed to prevent blurred images or a slower one might be adequate.

paulrph1 Loc: Washington, Utah

Thanks to all that took the time to weigh in. The additional thoughts and comment are great to get the different perspective. I was out of town at Front Sight and could not get to my emails. Front sight is about 80 miles from Vegas and this was when the shooter was at the shooting all of those innocent people.