Question on shutter speed.
Oct 1, 2017 14:36:01 #
paulrph1 wrote:
I suppose I could figure this one out myself but t... (show quote)
It's personal. Some can hold it steady at longer shutter speeds than the golden rule of 1/focal length, while others will have trouble getting blur free images at 1/2x focal length. And the other factor that is not covered by the rule is your subject to camera distance - which implies magnification. At high magnifications, like macro between 1:1 and 1:2 magnification with a 90mm lens - even 1/4x focal length may not be enough.
Having a brandy or a can of Red Bull before shooting will also impact your results.
Oct 2, 2017 06:26:00 #
mborn wrote:
I set my minimum shutter speed to the longest focal length of the lens that I am using since I do not know when I want to zoom in or out
This is great advice. If you are a rock then a lower shutter speed will work. If you are an older guy/gal then you may want to use a tripod or shoot at a higher shutter speed then you think. Just kick up the iso and go for it. Look at your images and let them tell you what to do. If you are using a 100mm lens, ap. of f8 , shutter at 1/100, iso of 100, and you images are fuzzy then you may want to change one of the three.
Oct 2, 2017 07:26:03 #
billnikon
Loc: Pennsylvania/Ohio/Florida/Maui/Oregon/Vermont
paulrph1 wrote:
I suppose I could figure this one out myself but t... (show quote)
That is a guide line, not a rule. And it all depends on what your shooting, if the subject is not moving and VR is on, 1/focal length of the lens is fine. For moving subjects, such as birds in flight, you can throw that guide line out the window. For fast moving objects like birds in flight you need a minimum of 1/2500 sec. regardless of focal length, and at that speed VR is no longer needed.
Oct 2, 2017 08:35:37 #
catchlight..
Loc: Wisconsin USA- Halden Norway
That's the minimum for camera shake...
Everything moving has shutter a speed consideration that goes beyond what a lens requires...unless you choose an effect like pan blur or some other motion blur.
A super steady hand or a tripod...or IS can reduce the number needed.
Everything moving has shutter a speed consideration that goes beyond what a lens requires...unless you choose an effect like pan blur or some other motion blur.
A super steady hand or a tripod...or IS can reduce the number needed.
paulrph1 wrote:
I suppose I could figure this one out myself but t... (show quote)
Oct 2, 2017 08:51:10 #
As a practical issue it does not matter to me. Since I do mostly sports and action my shutter speed is based on my subject. I am usually shooting in excess of 1/1000 unless I have slowed the shutter speed for an effect (dragging the shutter while tracking a moving subject). Even if I were shooting at an event (like a child's birthday party) I would likely be shooting in excess of 1/mm. After all kids move pretty fast. I would think this might be more an issue for landscape and street photography.
Oct 2, 2017 09:03:47 #
paulrph1 wrote:
I suppose I could figure this one out myself but t... (show quote)
There are two variables upon which to base shutter speed.
1. Focal length: The longer the focal length, the narrower the angle of view, i.e. the greater the magnification of the subject, which means any motion of the camera will be magnified proportionally. So the longer the focal length, the faster shutter you need.
2. Motion of the subject: If the subject is moving, and you want a sharp image of it, you need a fast shutter. How fast? Depends!
So not only do you need to use the reciprocal of the focal length, (or 2x to be safe), you have to also consider the subject motion.
Oct 2, 2017 09:05:23 #
PHRubin wrote:
As stated, 1/focal length for FULL FRAME, and 1/1.5*focal length for DX. However, stabilization mitigates the issue. I wouldn't use the 4 X improvement factor either. When I first started with film camera back in the 70s, I had a camera that was shutter speed preferred only or manual and used that rule extensively.
If your subject is static or not moving much, 4X is absolutely achievable with consistency.
These were all hand-held, and all relied on stabilization to minimize blur. I rely on the 4X (or better) improvement factor routinely - it has not let me down.
Which lenses with stabilization do you own?
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1.3 secs 29 mm, D300
(Download)
,6 sec, 50mm, D300
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1/4 sec, 18mm D200
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1/5 sec, 20mm, D300
(Download)
1/25, 600mm at closest focus distance
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detail from above
(Download)
Oct 2, 2017 09:25:20 #
mborn wrote:
I set my minimum shutter speed to the longest focal length of the lens that I am using since I do not know when I want to zoom in or out
+++
Oct 2, 2017 09:36:15 #
paulrph1 wrote:
I suppose I could figure this one out myself but t... (show quote)
I'd suggest that the first factor to consider is what is your subject. If you are doing landscapes, the 1/250 should be fast enough; if you are shooting sports or any action subjects and NOT panning, perhaps 1/500 might work, but it depends on your hand steadiness and the the type of movements. When I'm shooting high speed Hydroplane boat races I often set the shutter for 1/1000+ and compensate with a higher ISO.
Oct 2, 2017 09:53:51 #
gvarner
Loc: Central Oregon Coast
The way I hold, 3x the focal length works better as a rule of thumb for that is all that it is.
Oct 2, 2017 10:07:17 #
Oct 2, 2017 10:10:06 #
Gene51 wrote:
If your subject is static or not moving much, 4X is absolutely achievable with consistency.
These were all hand-held, and all relied on stabilization to minimize blur. I rely on the 4X (or better) improvement factor routinely - it has not let me down.
Which lenses with stabilization do you own?
.
.
These were all hand-held, and all relied on stabilization to minimize blur. I rely on the 4X (or better) improvement factor routinely - it has not let me down.
Which lenses with stabilization do you own?
.
.
Nice photos, Gene. Love the crop of your cat!!
Oct 2, 2017 10:30:53 #
dsmeltz wrote:
As a practical issue it does not matter to me. Si... (show quote)
I agree. Its subject matter that determines the shutter speed for me. I shoot mostly BIF and even then it depends on the subject. Great blue herons, maybe 640-800. Opsrey that are hunting 1250 +
Oct 2, 2017 12:16:22 #
paulrph1 wrote:
I suppose I could figure this one out myself but t... (show quote)
It also depends on what you are trying to accomplish.... if you want to freeze fast motion (such as a passing race car or horse) you generally need 1/640 or faster, with some background blur, 1/250 - 1/320 while panning. This is a general guideline, not a hard rule but the proof will be in your shots.
Also, that rule 1/f is for a lens or body without VR or IBIS. With stabilization you can get several stops more with a stationary subject or even a moving subject.
Handheld, no mono or tripod, I've taken tack sharp pics at 300mm (Nikon 28-300) with a shutter of 1/40 with VR on a DX DSLR (D7200) - stationary subject of course.
Oct 2, 2017 12:30:27 #
paulrph1 wrote:
I suppose I could figure this one out myself but t... (show quote)
That "rule" is only a suggestion related to motion blur (or the avoidance of it). It does not in any way suggest how you should shoot a certain lens. What shutter speed you use is entirely depending on your intend with each image!
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