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Need tips on getting sharp landscapes
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Aug 2, 2017 21:40:12   #
jeep_daddy Loc: Prescott AZ
 
jeep_daddy wrote:
The settings shouldn't be the problem here. But, and this is a big but, have you don't anything to this image in post? If not, all raw images are rather dull and don't have any "in camera" processing such as sharpening, contrast, or saturation added. Your image looks like it could use all of those things. You might have also benefited from a CP filter. Don't know the quality of your lens or if this camera is a DSLR. If it's not processed, then give us permission to alter your image and see what it "could" look like if processed.
The settings shouldn't be the problem here. But, ... (show quote)


Sorry, my iPad is much to be desired when it comes to accurate typing. "Have you done anything to this image is POST?" is what it should have said. If not, all raw . . . . .

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Aug 3, 2017 03:36:23   #
Heather Iles Loc: UK, Somerset
 
jeep_daddy wrote:
Sorry, my iPad is much to be desired when it comes to accurate typing. "Have you done anything to this image is POST?" is what it should have said. If not, all raw . . . . .


We knew what you meant, but I know that there are members on here who are very particular. You just forgot to proof read what you wrote. I don't always proof read and should know better, as I was a legal secretary and had to be accurate.

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Aug 3, 2017 12:54:37   #
Rab-Eye Loc: Indiana
 
Forgive me if this has already been mentioned. I was not going to read through three pages of posts. Has anyone suggested using using hyperfocusing? You used to set with the DOF scale on your lens. Today, with that feature gone from ever modern lens I own, I use an app that calculates the hyperfocal setting using focal length and aperture. All you need on your lens is a distance scale.

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Sep 16, 2017 11:47:09   #
8by10
 
What camera? Does it have mirror lockup?

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Sep 23, 2017 17:48:51   #
Heather Iles Loc: UK, Somerset
 
Rab-Eye wrote:
Forgive me if this has already been mentioned. I was not going to read through three pages of posts. Has anyone suggested using using hyperfocusing? You used to set with the DOF scale on your lens. Today, with that feature gone from ever modern lens I own, I use an app that calculates the hyperfocal setting using focal length and aperture. All you need on your lens is a distance scale.


Ben, would you be kind enough to let us know what this App is called? I am interested in it, as I too find it difficult in getting sharp landscapes and judging the distance. I can then look it up on Amazon.

Thanks.

H

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Sep 29, 2017 22:34:36   #
papa Loc: Rio Dell, CA
 
Just Fred wrote:
Thanks for the info. I'm sure more qualified folks will chime in and provide the accurate technical detail (and corrections), but I suspect there's a depth of field and the hyperfocal distance involved here. I don't know how far you were from the subject, but the trees in the foreground are less focused than the peaks of the mountains. Those peaks aren't as crisp as I think they could be, so either your f/stop wasn't capable of capturing enough detail in your focal range, or your lens has, as you put it, "limitations."

Still, when I take photos of this sort, I try to use the smallest aperture possible, and keep my shutter adjusted. This also looks like you shot it at dusk, so I might even bump my ISO a bit. These days, I find almost no image degradation up to 3200 ISO. Since you have a tripod and a remote shutter release, you could keep your ISO at 100, stop down to f/22 and shoot 1 to 1.5 second exposures. You could play with several exposures with that setup.

Last year, I took a trip into some caverns, and got some spectacular shots using 30-second (and more) exposures and only the lighting provided by the caverns, at a 400 ISO and a variety of aperture settings. Nothing moves and the light doesn't change. After I found the right settings, I came home a happy spelunker!
Thanks for the info. I'm sure more qualified folk... (show quote)


f/22? I can't for the life of me figure how the toll diffraction takes on even the best 2.8 glass above f/11 is going to help sharpness and he said it's a Takumar, WOW! IMHO, the shot is the best it can be with that camera/lens. Post in DxO Optics Pro 11 with Clear View will clean up near all haze and greatly improve any pic with aerial that's present. Those are the beans.

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Oct 3, 2017 12:21:01   #
gvarner Loc: Central Oregon Coast
 
twowindsbear wrote:
I'll blame atmospheric haze due to the distance

Or possibly smoke IF there's a forest fire somewhere near enough for the wind to send some your way


I too see haze.

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Oct 11, 2017 18:51:13   #
papa Loc: Rio Dell, CA
 
So, here's your shot with one adjustment in post-processing. I used DxO Optics Pro 11 and "Clear View" at intensity 100 (maximum) setting. That was the only change and it cleaned up most all of the blue haze from aerial that's found on distant shots. Other than that, better glass would show more detail. Takumar was a cheap brand when made, so don't expect more of your equipment than it's capable of, is my suggestion.
SirMontgomery wrote:
I'm not sure if this is a lens limitation or operator error. Taken with a Takumar 135mm f/2.5 lens. Any advice is much appreciated.


(Download)

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Oct 11, 2017 21:44:16   #
rmalarz Loc: Tempe, Arizona
 
This image has an incredible amount to offer. It's quite sharp enough. One just needs to bring out its best.
--Bob
SirMontgomery wrote:
I'm not sure if this is a lens limitation or operator error. Taken with a Takumar 135mm f/2.5 lens. Any advice is much appreciated.


(Download)

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Oct 12, 2017 04:09:08   #
papa Loc: Rio Dell, CA
 
I was conveying the point that all distant shots have aerial that can be cleared up with one click and a slider in less than a minute. Of course, additional processing can be done or overdone to the point of rasterizeing to one's appeal, or not. I took another five minutes to do it to my appeal. I personally don't find appeal in unrealistic one click HDR for landscapes, though it does appeal me for cityscapes. I like the natural look with realistic colors for landscapes.
rmalarz wrote:
This image has an incredible amount to offer. It's quite sharp enough. One just needs to bring out its best.
--Bob


(Download)

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Oct 12, 2017 07:24:18   #
rmalarz Loc: Tempe, Arizona
 
I agree with you wholeheartedly on the HDR approach to anything, one click or whatever process. I have to do them sometimes for clients, but don't rely on that as a crutch for not knowing how to expose. As for this photo, I simply did a small amount of work in ACR, and then the most noticeable change was made doing an image specific white point adjustment and a small amount of burning and dodging. I'd probably lean more towards this being more of what was there when photographed.
--Bob

papa wrote:
I was conveying the point that all distant shots have aerial that can be cleared up with one click and a slider in less than a minute. Of course, additional processing can be done or overdone to the point of rasterizeing to one's appeal, or not. I took another five minutes to do it to my appeal. I personally don't find appeal in unrealistic one click HDR for landscapes, though it does appeal me for cityscapes. I like the natural look with realistic colors for landscapes.

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Oct 15, 2017 23:16:12   #
papa Loc: Rio Dell, CA
 
Here's another two minute PP in DxO optics pro 11 Elite.
rmalarz wrote:
I agree with you wholeheartedly on the HDR approach to anything, one click or whatever process. I have to do them sometimes for clients, but don't rely on that as a crutch for not knowing how to expose. As for this photo, I simply did a small amount of work in ACR, and then the most noticeable change was made doing an image specific white point adjustment and a small amount of burning and dodging. I'd probably lean more towards this being more of what was there when photographed.
--Bob


(Download)

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Oct 18, 2017 12:25:50   #
wapiti Loc: round rock, texas
 
Just Fred wrote:
I agree. I get the best results (mostly) with very small apertures and very long shutter speeds. Landscapes don't move, unless as you say, you have clouds and/or water. And then, sometimes the results with those are impressive, too.



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Oct 18, 2017 12:31:01   #
wapiti Loc: round rock, texas
 
Just Fred wrote:
I know the OP didn't approve the re-posting of his image with edits, but I see others have done it without complaint, so I offer my "quick and dirty" edited version.

Between conference calls and other work-related tasks, I put together this version. Given the constraints of this site, it's a vastyly reduced file size and resolution. However, I quickly used Lightroom, added a radial filter to dehaze the area between the trees and peaks, enhanced the contrast a bit, sharpened the image a bit, and applied a light enhancement to the sky. Given more time, I think this image could be turned into a real wall-hanger!
I know the OP didn't approve the re-posting of his... (show quote)


I agree. The many versions of this image are beautiful and definitely a keeper, IMO.

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Nov 25, 2017 11:06:32   #
papa Loc: Rio Dell, CA
 
Just Fred wrote:
I can't see any EXIF information. Did you remove it, or is there none? Was this shot as a JPEG?

Not knowing much about the shot (aperture setting, shutter speed, ISO), etc., I can only suggest that a tripod would help. An aperture of f/11 or smaller should be used, and the shutter speed commensurate with the ISO.


Maybe, it's time for you to slow down and learn basic photography before spewing misinformation, friend. Your opinions are unfounded and often incorrect.

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