Need tips on getting sharp landscapes
Nov 25, 2017 12:31:45 #
papa wrote:
Maybe, it's time for you to slow down and learn basic photography before spewing misinformation, friend. Your opinions are unfounded and often incorrect.
I have been studying, shooting and developing photographs for over 40 years. I will exhibiting some of my photographs by invitation soon. Obviously, my opinions are good enough for me.
Dec 5, 2017 16:13:48 #
Just Fred wrote:
I can't see any EXIF information. Did you remove it, or is there none? Was this shot as a JPEG?
Not knowing much about the shot (aperture setting, shutter speed, ISO), etc., I can only suggest that a tripod would help. An aperture of f/11 or smaller should be used, and the shutter speed commensurate with the ISO.
Not knowing much about the shot (aperture setting, shutter speed, ISO), etc., I can only suggest that a tripod would help. An aperture of f/11 or smaller should be used, and the shutter speed commensurate with the ISO.
Just say NO to apertures smaller than f/11 on dSLRs. Diffraction starts to limit sharpness visibly on MOST full frame cameras at about f/13. By f/22, it is very noticeable.
Diffraction starts to limit sharpness at a stop wider (f/9) on APS-C cameras, and around f/6.3 on most Micro 4/3 cameras.
The higher the resolution of the sensor, the wider the aperture at which diffraction limiting of sharpness becomes visible. A 16MP full frame camera can be used at smaller apertures than a 50MP full frame camera before diffraction becomes visible.
Many lenses are sharpest just one to three f/stops down from wide open. All my Micro 4/3 lenses are sharpest at f/4! That's a good thing, because at f/4, normal 25mm focal length, depth of field extends from about 18 feet to infinity when focused at 36 feet. At 12mm (24mm full frame equivalent field of view), also f/4, depth of field is from about 4.3 feet to infinity when focused at 9 feet. Stopping down further improves depth of field negligibly. It really only degrades lens performance.
Old timers who learned landscape photography with view cameras (4x5 and larger film formats) never had to worry much about diffraction, because the images are not enlarged very much, compared to full frame, APS-C, or Micro 4/3 digital. They could use very small apertures, and had to, to get foreground and background depth of field.
Dec 19, 2017 16:59:05 #
SirMontgomery wrote:
I'm not sure if this is a lens limitation or operator error. Taken with a Takumar 135mm f/2.5 lens. Any advice is much appreciated.
I don't see it. Looks pretty sharp to me on my phone. The rock faces and snow are nicely delineated. Work on opening up the shadows a little. A little sharpening might be called for but overall a very nice capture. As you become more comfortable with post, you will see more and more ways to tweak it. Maybe some mild HDR with Aurora or a similar plug-in at baseline settings.
You are 19, so you have long path ahead of you and you will get better and more picky. But right now, just go out with what you have and shoot and enjoy.
Jan 3, 2018 00:20:00 #
ewforbess
Loc: San Antonio, TX
Nice photo and acceptably sharp. I noticed when zoomed in that it might be a little soft overall. Considering that you used 1/10" shutter speed, I wonder if mirror bounce might have caused a loss in sharpness. I've read that shutter speeds from about 1/4" to 1/25" can show mirror bounce focus issues if you don't use the mirror lock-up on your camera. Just a thought, but still a very nice shot... Keep 'em coming!
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