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Focus Stacking
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Mar 30, 2016 16:12:40   #
portcragin Loc: Kirkland, WA
 
There are a number of You Tube example of Focus Stacking.
google: Focus Stacking,Gavin Hoey. Some good example.

Good shooting

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Mar 30, 2016 16:29:20   #
Bobspez Loc: Southern NJ, USA
 
Make sure your iso and aperture stay constant by setting them manually. Iso-100 is best. You can have as long a shutter speed as necessary since you are on a tipod. Using the tripod, set the ten second delay timer to release the shutter to avoid vibrations. You may get better results with a smaller aperture and a longer shutter speed.
Billbobboy42 wrote:
Thanks, Michael. FYI, the lens I used is a Tamron f/2.8 Macro. I did use a tripod. But one thing I simply forgot to do was lock the mirror - an important step. Of course, I never expected to do it perfectly the first time. And I have to get each frame in perfect focus, something my eyes may not agree with.

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Mar 30, 2016 16:50:55   #
MW
 
lamiaceae wrote:
I've considered two possibilities when focus stacking.

1) Just make many exposures sequentially while focusing thru the subject. This is by far the easiest and what was taught to me, and it works.

2) For theoretical reasons I've considered keeping the lens focus stationary and moving the camera slight between exposures on a focusing rail. This is to maintain magnification from exposure to exposure. Most lenses "move" in or out from the focal plane as they focus. I've tried this and it seemed to work but you must only shoot directly in line and tangent to your subject or the subject "moves" across the frame from exposure to exposure. Also my flower seemed to wilt while photographing it.

A lens that focuses by floating elements and maintains front element to film or sensor plane distance would be ideal. I believe some Nikon lens behave in that manor. Sadly I believe all (the the ones I know of) Pentax lenses extend as you focus closer. Not sure about Canon or Sony.

And if a camera can do the refocus automatically, that is perfect.
I've considered two possibilities when focus stack... (show quote)


No 2. is probably best accomplished with a macro focus rail. Some are even motorized and software controlled. Especially attractive if one doesn't have enough "stuff" yet.

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Mar 31, 2016 13:07:14   #
Billbobboy42 Loc: Center of Delmarva
 
MMC wrote:
Helicon has HeliconRemote which can help you to focus for stacking.
http://www.heliconsoft.com/heliconsoft-products/helicon-remote/

Thanks for the reference. HeliconRemote downloaded o.k., but I ran into a can of worms after that. I turned on my camera's wifi, then selected wifi function. Then I got a window asking to create a nickname. No camera button or wheel allowed any selection of the presented alpha/numeric characters. Also, could not find that screen either in the 400+ pages of the owner's manual or the wifi manual. HeliconRemote showed how to do it with the Canon 6D. However, some of the function selection windows did not match those on my camera. This turned out to be an exercise way beyond my understanding and patience. Luckily, it only cost me $38.00. I'll just have to operate the old fashion way - manually.

Regards
Bill

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Mar 31, 2016 13:49:18   #
jackm1943 Loc: Omaha, Nebraska
 
Billbobboy42 wrote:
Thanks for the reference. HeliconRemote downloaded o.k., but I ran into a can of worms after that. I turned on my camera's wifi, then selected wifi function. Then I got a window asking to create a nickname. No camera button or wheel allowed any selection of the presented alpha/numeric characters. Also, could not find that screen either in the 400+ pages of the owner's manual or the wifi manual. HeliconRemote showed how to do it with the Canon 6D. However, some of the function selection windows did not match those on my camera. This turned out to be an exercise way beyond my understanding and patience. Luckily, it only cost me $38.00. I'll just have to operate the old fashion way - manually.

Regards
Bill
Thanks for the reference. HeliconRemote downloade... (show quote)

Did you try the program that came with your 6D? It works pretty well provided you're close to a computer. It has three levels of intervals, each about ten times less.

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Apr 3, 2016 07:35:37   #
Billbobboy42 Loc: Center of Delmarva
 
jackm1943 wrote:
Did you try the program that came with your 6D? It works pretty well provided you're close to a computer. It has three levels of intervals, each about ten times less.


Jack, what program are you talking about? EOS Utilities? Or in camera? I have an older version of EOS Utilities, but for the life of me, could not find a download function for that program on Canon's website.

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Apr 3, 2016 21:10:03   #
jackm1943 Loc: Omaha, Nebraska
 
Billbobboy42 wrote:
Jack, what program are you talking about? EOS Utilities? Or in camera? I have an older version of EOS Utilities, but for the life of me, could not find a download function for that program on Canon's website.

Yes, it's in Utilities, don't remember the name but it's obvious when you see it. It's not too complicated but you have to be tethered. I've used it a few times on my desk near the computer. Once you get the first image focused, you don't need to touch the camera again, the program changes the focus and you trigger the shutter from your computer. It has three different levels of intervals, the crudest being about 3-4 mm (I'm guessing), the finest probably less than a mm.

Perhaps you could request the CD from Canon since you have the camera?

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Apr 3, 2016 21:21:21   #
JimH123 Loc: Morgan Hill, CA
 
lamiaceae wrote:
I've considered two possibilities when focus stacking.

1) Just make many exposures sequentially while focusing thru the subject. This is by far the easiest and what was taught to me, and it works.

2) For theoretical reasons I've considered keeping the lens focus stationary and moving the camera slight between exposures on a focusing rail. This is to maintain magnification from exposure to exposure. Most lenses "move" in or out from the focal plane as they focus. I've tried this and it seemed to work but you must only shoot directly in line and tangent to your subject or the subject "moves" across the frame from exposure to exposure. Also my flower seemed to wilt while photographing it.

A lens that focuses by floating elements and maintains front element to film or sensor plane distance would be ideal. I believe some Nikon lens behave in that manor. Sadly I believe all (the the ones I know of) Pentax lenses extend as you focus closer. Not sure about Canon or Sony.

And if a camera can do the refocus automatically, that is perfect.
I've considered two possibilities when focus stack... (show quote)


It's not necessary maintain the same distance to the lens. Helicon can account for that and adjusts the image accordingly. The trick is to do enough individual steps so that there is an opportunity for every point in the image to have an in focus point of reference.

A cheap slider rail to move the camera can make this a whole lot easier.

Or you can rotate the focus a little bit for each shot. Your choice.

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Apr 3, 2016 21:33:30   #
jackm1943 Loc: Omaha, Nebraska
 
Billbobboy42 wrote:
Jack, what program are you talking about? EOS Utilities? Or in camera? I have an older version of EOS Utilities, but for the life of me, could not find a download function for that program on Canon's website.


Bill, here's a website that has some info about what they call Step Focusing using EOS Utilities.
Jack

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