Billbobboy42 Loc: Center of Delmarva

I just tried focus stacking for the first time, less than stellar results but I am new to the process. I am using Helicon (mid-priced version). My first attempt was with a macro lens on a Canon 6D. Using the viewfinder was a bit difficult for me to see a clear focus. Forgot about using live view. Will try that next.

Anyway, curious to hear what results Hoggers have experienced. I have not noticed any postings on the subject in quite some time.

EnglishBrenda Loc: Kent, England

Hi Billbobboy42, have a look in the macro section of this forum (Home - all sections - true macro). There are some members who stack regularly and are very knowledgeable and helpful on the subject. Maybe repost this question there.

Billbobboy42 Loc: Center of Delmarva

Thanks. Didn't think of that.j

lamiaceae Loc: San Luis Obispo County, CA

I've focus stacked. Not often yet. Tried a few shooting techniques. One worked great. Another that I though up for theoretical considerations had a technical issue I had not thought of. It worked but looked weird. A modification and limitation on the technique should work. Though the original method I learned of is easier. I've only used Photoshop CS6 for stacking.

bkyser Loc: Fly over country in Indiana

Not sure what camera you are using, but with Nikon, there is a program called "control my Nikon" that lets the program actually change your focus automatically, you put the camera on the tripod, go into the program and tell it how many "slices" (photos) you want and how much difference between the front and back focus, and it will take several in increments, you can set the delay so your flash (if you are using one) can recycle. It is by far the easiest way to do focus stacking. It actually works directly with Helicon, so you are 1/2 way there already. I think they do offer a Canon version too. The program is around $30. They have some youtube videos about focus stacking with "control my Nikon" that you can check out first.

I say this, not because I have any interest in the company, as a matter of fact, I'm a little disappointed in their customer service, as I've had a recent question, and they never got back to me, but the software itself is really impressive for the cost. (just don't expect stellar support, I think you need to rely on youtube, or people here on UHH if you want answers)

bk

rwilson1942 Loc: Houston, TX

I've done a bit of focus stacking. I used Zerene before PS added the capability, use it now. The biggest problem I have had was if there was too much movement between the shots for alignment to work well. I recommend using a tripod. Even with tripod, it is often too windy here to get good results. Just keep practicing, you'll get there.

amfoto1 Loc: San Jose, Calif. USA

Not sure if it's available for Canon 6D that you're using, but there's a program called Magic Lantern that installs on your memory card and can control various aspects of the camera. I think one thing it can be set up to do is micro adjust focus to take a series of shots at slightly different focusing distances. That might be worth a try.

If manual focusing, there also are "focusing stages" and quick release plates marked in mm increments that might be useful.

Leitz Loc: Solms

Could it possibly be a Canon 6D?

Armadillo Loc: Ventura, CA

Billbobboy42,

I have used focus stacking several times and received very good results, after discovering the error of my early ways.
Using a Canon EOS 1000D body and the Canon 18 - 55mm lens, and CZM software to handle the stacking, the subjects came out very good. Try the following:
1. Place subject on a sturdy platform.
2. Place camera/lens on a tripod.
3. Frame the subject in the viewfinder/LCD panel for your desired composition.
4. Set the lens Aperture to around f/8 for limited depth of field.
5. If necessary move camera forward, or backward to maintain composition at your desired focal length.
6. Set the camera lens to Manual Focus.
7. Adjust the manual focusing ring to sharply focus on the subject from a point farthest from the camera film plain, then adjust the focusing ring to a point nearest the camera film plain. Note all critical points that fall into pin sharp focus during the above adjustment series. These points will be used for each exposure.
8. Note. On most digital cameras, when viewing the subject through the viewfinder, or LCD panel, the lens is set wide open for maximum light, only when the shutter is depressed is the lens Aperture closed down.
9. The number of exposures required will depend on the number of critical focus points you discovered in #7 above.
10. For reference in later troubleshooting (if necessary) manually focus on that subject element farthest from the film plain. Capture an exposure.
11. Continue capturing exposures until you have captured all the critical points including the exposure at that subject point closest to the film plain.
12. Import all the exposure files into your focus stacking software.

If the end result is still not sharp enough you may need to select a higher Aperture f/stop for greater DOF, or select more critical focus points. The value of f/8 should be enough to allow the range of DOF between most critical focusing points to cover focusing between one point and the next.

Outdoor focusing stacking is next to impossible due to air currents moving your subject. If you must photograph a flower using the focus stacking technique, use a pair of shears and bring the flower indoors where you have total control over the environment.

After you have completed the stack process, have performed all other processing to create a final .jpg image you can merge this image into another image photographed outdoors and slightly out of focus for the outdoor effect.

Michael G

Billbobboy42 Loc: Center of Delmarva

Thanks, Michael. FYI, the lens I used is a Tamron f/2.8 Macro. I did use a tripod. But one thing I simply forgot to do was lock the mirror - an important step. Of course, I never expected to do it perfectly the first time. And I have to get each frame in perfect focus, something my eyes may not agree with.

Armadillo Loc: Ventura, CA

Billbobboy42,

You are welcome.
The lens model is not critical, nor is the Canon body. Those were mentioned so readers would have a reference from where the suggestions were coming from.

The suggestions should work well on any DSLR and lens combination that would otherwise perform as expected in normal use. The suggestions leave plenty of room for modification after you achieve at least one good result.

The only time you might need to lock up the mirror is if you are using a long exposure. However, I think you mentioned you were using Live view, in Live view the mirror is up so the sensor receives the image and sends it to the LDC panel.

Michael G

Billbobboy42 Loc: Center of Delmarva

I did not use live view because I just forgot. Will do so on next attempt.

Bill

jerryc41 Loc: Catskill Mts of NY

I haven't used it very much, but Photoshop worked for me.

MMC Loc: Brooklyn NY

Helicon has HeliconRemote which can help you to focus for stacking.
http://www.heliconsoft.com/heliconsoft-products/helicon-remote/

Billbobboy42 Loc: Center of Delmarva

I have Photoshop Elements which, as far as I know, does not have focus stacking. Just installed vs 14 yesterday. The main editor page looks identical to vs 13 except a hazing removal function is included. I would like it to have an HDR function, but that would be asking too much😐