Focus Stacking (Page 2): I've used Ps CS6, works fine for me (too).

lamiaceae Loc: San Luis Obispo County, CA

jerryc41 wrote:

I haven't used it very much, but Photoshop worked for me.

I've used Ps CS6, works fine for me (too).

lamiaceae Loc: San Luis Obispo County, CA

Billbobboy42 wrote:

I just tried focus stacking for the first time, less than stellar results but I am new to the process. I am using Helicon (mid-priced version). My first attempt was with a macro lens on a Canon 6D. Using the viewfinder was a bit difficult for me to see a clear focus. Forgot about using live view. Will try that next.

Anyway, curious to hear what results Hoggers have experienced. I have not noticed any postings on the subject in quite some time.

I've considered two possibilities when focus stacking.

1) Just make many exposures sequentially while focusing thru the subject. This is by far the easiest and what was taught to me, and it works.

2) For theoretical reasons I've considered keeping the lens focus stationary and moving the camera slight between exposures on a focusing rail. This is to maintain magnification from exposure to exposure. Most lenses "move" in or out from the focal plane as they focus. I've tried this and it seemed to work but you must only shoot directly in line and tangent to your subject or the subject "moves" across the frame from exposure to exposure. Also my flower seemed to wilt while photographing it.

A lens that focuses by floating elements and maintains front element to film or sensor plane distance would be ideal. I believe some Nikon lens behave in that manor. Sadly I believe all (the the ones I know of) Pentax lenses extend as you focus closer. Not sure about Canon or Sony.

And if a camera can do the refocus automatically, that is perfect.

Al Beatty Loc: Boise, Idaho

Hi Billbobboy42,
I do a lot of focus stacking for fishing catalog photography when shooting pictures of fly boxes filled with fishing flies. It usually takes 5 to 8 shots to cover a box of flies and have them all in focus. Armadillo offered a good process for capturing the pictures. I use Photoshop CC to stack the pictures but if you don't have that program you can use PSE (13 I think) with a script's addon to do the job. See the You Tube video below for information on using PSE to stack focus.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NgoUF1DA_T4
Good luck and let us know how things work out for you. Take care & ...

Bloke Loc: Waynesboro, Pennsylvania

Billbobboy42 wrote:

Thanks, Michael. FYI, the lens I used is a Tamron f/2.8 Macro. I did use a tripod. But one thing I simply forgot to do was lock the mirror - an important step. Of course, I never expected to do it perfectly the first time. And I have to get each frame in perfect focus, something my eyes may not agree with.

If you use liveview, the mirror will be locked up for you. For focus, you can use the button top right on the camera to zoom in on the screen, 5x and 10x. This lets you get the critical focus. You may want to use a small aperture, to get the maximum depth of field for each shot, depending on how many shots you are going to be stacking. Shooting indoors with bounced flash will give you the control you need over the environment.

abc1234 Loc: Elk Grove Village, Illinois

bkyser wrote:

Not sure what camera you are using, but with Nikon... (show quote)

http://www.controlmycanon.com/#!faq/c1yzu

As an alternative, check my reply to the post about magiclantern.com that follows.

abc1234 Loc: Elk Grove Village, Illinois

amfoto1 wrote:

Not sure if it's available for Canon 6D that you're using, but there's a program called Magic Lantern that installs on your memory card and can control various aspects of the camera. I think one thing it can be set up to do is micro adjust focus to take a series of shots at slightly different focusing distances. That might be worth a try.

If manual focusing, there also are "focusing stages" and quick release plates marked in mm increments that might be useful.

See magiclantern.com. This is an international volunteer project that adds many interesting functions to many Canon cameras. Worth looking at. It is free and does have focus stacking among other neat things.

sidpearce

I must say I find Zerine stacker much better than Photoshop
In the end,it is what you can get used to

Carl D Loc: Albemarle, NC.

I use Capture One to use my laptop to focus and Zerine stacker to stack the photos.

Mark7829 Loc: Calfornia

Billbobboy42 wrote:

I just tried focus stacking for the first time, less than stellar results but I am new to the process. I am using Helicon (mid-priced version). My first attempt was with a macro lens on a Canon 6D. Using the viewfinder was a bit difficult for me to see a clear focus. Forgot about using live view. Will try that next.

Anyway, curious to hear what results Hoggers have experienced. I have not noticed any postings on the subject in quite some time.

Did you use a tripod?

MtManMD Loc: Beaverton, Oregon

Using a focusing rail certainly makes the process easy. I back the rail up, use auto focus on the closest part of the image that I want in focus, then use the rail adjustment to move the camera forward a few mm at a time. Mounted on a tripod with quick release plates makes it a stable and consistent platform.

I purchased a Fotodiox Macro Focusing Rail from Amazon. It was inexpensive and is a heavy duty unit.

I haven't stacked a lot, but it seems to work well the few times I used it and processed with Zerene.

Billbobboy42 Loc: Center of Delmarva

Mark7829 wrote:

Did you use a tripod?

Yes.

jackm1943 Loc: Omaha, Nebraska

With my 6D, I use Live View and manual focus, on a tripod of course, moving the focus spot as needed between exposures, then process with Photoshop, is simple and works well. It works well with auto focus also. Canons come with a program that allows you to focus stack by tethering in extremely fine increments but I find it easier to do it manually.

PhotoJoe Loc: WASHINGTON

Anyone use pse+? Did you download it from the " my commerce"? Are they safe?

MW

Billbobboy42 wrote:

Thanks, Michael. FYI, the lens I used is a Tamron f/2.8 Macro. I did use a tripod. But one thing I simply forgot to do was lock the mirror - an important step. Of course, I never expected to do it perfectly the first time. And I have to get each frame in perfect focus, something my eyes may not agree with.

I found results improve by taking shots at very small increments smaller than I think needed. Depending on the subject 30-40 may be reasonable. Anyway you can't get in trouble with too many.

Absolute motionless camera and subject are important. Focus stacking has "ghosting" issues just like HDR only worse. Helicon can deal with this to an extent but that is why they have some editing features in the more pricey version on the software.

MW

Billbobboy42 wrote:

Thanks, Michael. FYI, the lens I used is a Tamron f/2.8 Macro. I did use a tripod. But one thing I simply forgot to do was lock the mirror - an important step. Of course, I never expected to do it perfectly the first time. And I have to get each frame in perfect focus, something my eyes may not agree with.

I found results improve by taking shots at very small increments smaller than I think needed. Depending on the subject 30-40 may be reasonable. Anyway you can't get in trouble with too many.

Absolute motionless camera and subject are important. Focus stacking has "ghosting" issues just like HDR only worse. Helicon can deal with this to an extent but that is why they have some editing features in the more pricey version on the software.