What setting for this? (Page 3): And finally, if after you raise the ISO, open the lens as far as it will go, but you still can't get a shutter speed that will "do it" for you ... What...

user2071 Loc: New England

gemartin wrote:

Actually increasing the ISO does not lose resolution as an earlier post says, it increases the light sensitivity of the image sensor. This is sometimes necessary in poor/low light situation. What it typically does is add digital noise to your image. Some noise can be dealt with in post processing by software such as Lightroom, or by a plugin such as Noiseware.

I noticed that on first Nikon photo of the post it says it was shot at ISO 1600, already quite high for an entry level camera such as the D5000 or a Canon Rebel.

Later when discussing the EXIF data it says that the exposure bias was set at -0.7 which (if I understand the Nikon terminology correctly) means that the image was purposely being underexposed by 0.7 stops (almost a full stop). Probably not a good idea in low light.

Understanding the relationship of ISO, aperture, and f-stop is important.

The issues are that entry level cameras such as my Canon Rebel XSi coupled with a not very "fast" lens such as Canon EF-S 55-250mm f/4-5.6 will simply not be able to shoot at a shutter speed fast enough to stop the blurring. When you zoom this lens with its variable f-stop to 250mm, you get a maximum aperture of f/5.6.

Let's compare to a lens that can get to f/2.8 at the same zoom level. It is typically very expensive to have a lens that is "fast" across the entire zoom range - such as Canon 24-70 f/2.8 - capable of maintaining f/2.8 throughout the zoom range. This lens sells for $1400 new. A Canon EF 70-200mm f/2.8L IS II sells new for $2500+. These are considered fast because of their maximum f/2.8 aperture capability.

Each full f-stop change doubles or halves the amount of light coming through the lens (e.g., using f/5.6 as the center you would compare as follows: f/4 vs. f/5.6 vs. f/8.

So, if you were shooting at f/2.8 at 1/1000th to freeze the leg motion, to get the same image exposure at f/4 you would have to slow your camera down to 1/500th (possibly getting some blurring), to shoot at f/5.6 (the maximum possible when zoomed with the kit lens), you will have to shoot at 1/250th. So the camera will take 4 times as long to capture the image and it is very likely that the legs will appear blurred. This leaves us with only one out, increase the ISO even more. Doubling the ISO sensitivity is the same as adding an f-stop.

For example exposure-wise, shooting at f/5.6 1/500th ISO 100 is the same as f/4 1/500th ISO 200. Every time you double the ISO, you increase sensitivity by same amount as opening the lens one full stop (e.g., change from f/8 to f/5.6) or doubling the exposure time (e.g., 1/500th vs. 1/250th). To shoot at higher shutter speed, we increase the ISO (in this example if we increase ISO to 400 (vs. original ISO 100) we can now shoot at f/5.6 1/2000 ISO 400 - compared to our original setting f/5.6 1/500th ISO 100 in this example. freezes the legs, adds noise.

Anything above ISO 800 on entry level Canon camera (Rebel XS or XSi) will inject noise into the image and I am not sure what the threshhold is for Nikon cameras but physics are the same in terms of noise and sensor sensitivity. Sometimes we simply have to endure the noise if we are going to get the image at all (because we have to keep cranking up the ISO so the camera can properly expose the image).

Here is a link to a 2007 article on cameraporn.net (ITS NOT PORN) that is a decent explanation of the relationship of the triangle of exposure called ISO, Speed, Aperture http://www.cameraporn.net/2007/12/24/aperture-iso-and-shutter-speed-the-good-kind-of-threesome/

Lastly, here is the camerporn.net link to 60 useful photo web sites (it is helpful to have this in your favorites!) http://www.cameraporn.net/2008/05/12/60-photography-links-you-cant-live-without/

Actually increasing the ISO does not lose resoluti... (show quote)

And finally, if after you raise the ISO, open the lens as far as it will go, but you still can't get a shutter speed that will "do it" for you ...

What to do? Personally, I put my camera away and enjoy the show. Sometimes, you don't have the right stuff to do what you want. You can't make the equipment do what it won't do.

anotherview Loc: California

gemartin: Thanks for photography Web links. Have added them to my collection. To that list, "Amazing Photographer Portfolios," in the first link, I'd add: http://www.karsh.org/#/home/ His portraits inspire me. I stare at his work to analyze the fine lighting.

BTW: You wrote, "Understanding the relationship of ISO, aperture, and f-stop is important." I believe you meant to include shutter speed. But yes, success in taking pictures requires understanding these three variables and their relation.

fivedawgz wrote:

gemartin wrote:

Actually increasing the ISO does not lose resolution as an earlier post says, it increases the light sensitivity of the image sensor. This is sometimes necessary in poor/low light situation. What it typically does is add digital noise to your image. Some noise can be dealt with in post processing by software such as Lightroom, or by a plugin such as Noiseware.

I noticed that on first Nikon photo of the post it says it was shot at ISO 1600, already quite high for an entry level camera such as the D5000 or a Canon Rebel.

Later when discussing the EXIF data it says that the exposure bias was set at -0.7 which (if I understand the Nikon terminology correctly) means that the image was purposely being underexposed by 0.7 stops (almost a full stop). Probably not a good idea in low light.

Understanding the relationship of ISO, aperture, and f-stop is important.

The issues are that entry level cameras such as my Canon Rebel XSi coupled with a not very "fast" lens such as Canon EF-S 55-250mm f/4-5.6 will simply not be able to shoot at a shutter speed fast enough to stop the blurring. When you zoom this lens with its variable f-stop to 250mm, you get a maximum aperture of f/5.6.

Let's compare to a lens that can get to f/2.8 at the same zoom level. It is typically very expensive to have a lens that is "fast" across the entire zoom range - such as Canon 24-70 f/2.8 - capable of maintaining f/2.8 throughout the zoom range. This lens sells for $1400 new. A Canon EF 70-200mm f/2.8L IS II sells new for $2500+. These are considered fast because of their maximum f/2.8 aperture capability.

Each full f-stop change doubles or halves the amount of light coming through the lens (e.g., using f/5.6 as the center you would compare as follows: f/4 vs. f/5.6 vs. f/8.

So, if you were shooting at f/2.8 at 1/1000th to freeze the leg motion, to get the same image exposure at f/4 you would have to slow your camera down to 1/500th (possibly getting some blurring), to shoot at f/5.6 (the maximum possible when zoomed with the kit lens), you will have to shoot at 1/250th. So the camera will take 4 times as long to capture the image and it is very likely that the legs will appear blurred. This leaves us with only one out, increase the ISO even more. Doubling the ISO sensitivity is the same as adding an f-stop.

For example exposure-wise, shooting at f/5.6 1/500th ISO 100 is the same as f/4 1/500th ISO 200. Every time you double the ISO, you increase sensitivity by same amount as opening the lens one full stop (e.g., change from f/8 to f/5.6) or doubling the exposure time (e.g., 1/500th vs. 1/250th). To shoot at higher shutter speed, we increase the ISO (in this example if we increase ISO to 400 (vs. original ISO 100) we can now shoot at f/5.6 1/2000 ISO 400 - compared to our original setting f/5.6 1/500th ISO 100 in this example. freezes the legs, adds noise.

Anything above ISO 800 on entry level Canon camera (Rebel XS or XSi) will inject noise into the image and I am not sure what the threshhold is for Nikon cameras but physics are the same in terms of noise and sensor sensitivity. Sometimes we simply have to endure the noise if we are going to get the image at all (because we have to keep cranking up the ISO so the camera can properly expose the image).

Here is a link to a 2007 article on cameraporn.net (ITS NOT PORN) that is a decent explanation of the relationship of the triangle of exposure called ISO, Speed, Aperture http://www.cameraporn.net/2007/12/24/aperture-iso-and-shutter-speed-the-good-kind-of-threesome/

Lastly, here is the camerporn.net link to 60 useful photo web sites (it is helpful to have this in your favorites!) http://www.cameraporn.net/2008/05/12/60-photography-links-you-cant-live-without/

Actually increasing the ISO does not lose resoluti... (show quote)

And finally, if after you raise the ISO, open the lens as far as it will go, but you still can't get a shutter speed that will "do it" for you ...

What to do? Personally, I put my camera away and enjoy the show. Sometimes, you don't have the right stuff to do what you want. You can't make the equipment do what it won't do.

quote=gemartin Actually increasing the ISO does n... (show quote)

mgemstone Loc: Chicago/Cocoa beach/La/NY

Everyone has their own way of handling this and I am inconsistent on how I approach it depending on circumstances. First, I'd try a different vantage point to reduce the line through the head - I might choose a straight on shot capturing the front of the horse and rider. Second, the ground in close to a gray so I'd set my shutter speed to 1/1000. I'd then focus on the ground and get my Fstop reading. I'll increase my ISO to get my desired aperture. I then set my camera to Manual setting the shutter speed and Fstop I determined previously and set my bracketing to +/- 0.5. To futher adjust the resulting images, simply change the ISO up or down.

ShakyShutter Loc: Arizona

Nice save Carbonterry. This is a perfect storm of the worse kind. Black horse and rider against a white wall, moving target and bad low light to top it off.

Anyone else think that -0.7 bias is a little weird?