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What setting for this?
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Sep 23, 2011 19:12:06   #
Mrsmoses Loc: Oregon
 
A friend and I tried to shoot some action shots in the Salem, Oregon fairgrounds arena. My first love is the Morgan horse and this was a good show to attend. Friend was using a Cannon EOS Rebel XS, lens EF-S 55-250 and I was using my Nikon D5000. We were having a terrible time with the lighting as these are old vapor lights in this ancient building and with the horses moving there was a lot of bluring on the legs. What setting would any of you sugest for this kind of situation and lighting. I did brighten this up some.

Nikon D5000, f/5.3, Exp. Tm 1/250 sec, ISO-1600
Nikon D5000, f/5.3, Exp. Tm 1/250 sec, ISO-1600...

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Sep 23, 2011 19:26:59   #
bobmielke Loc: Portland, OR
 
Mrsmoses wrote:
A friend and I tried to shoot some action shots in the Salem, Oregon fairgrounds arena. My first love is the Morgan horse and this was a good show to attend. Friend was using a Cannon EOS Rebel XS, lens EF-S 55-250 and I was using my Nikon D5000. We were having a terrible time with the lighting as these are old vapor lights in this ancient building and with the horses moving there was a lot of bluring on the legs. What setting would any of you sugest for this kind of situation and lighting. I did brighten this up some.
A friend and I tried to shoot some action shots in... (show quote)


Here's the situation, you've got a black horse against a white(light colored) wall. Your auto-exposure camera will always take the average light reading of the brightest area and expose for that. It's like standing in front of a bright window or in the snow. The secret in "exposure compensation". Check your owner's manual to learn how to give extra exposure for the next time this situation occurs. The edit isn't perfect but it is lighter than the original.

Original - Unedited
Original - Unedited...

Enhanced Possibilities
Enhanced Possibilities...

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Sep 23, 2011 19:34:00   #
Mrsmoses Loc: Oregon
 
bobmielke wrote:
Mrsmoses wrote:
A friend and I tried to shoot some action shots in the Salem, Oregon fairgrounds arena. My first love is the Morgan horse and this was a good show to attend. Friend was using a Cannon EOS Rebel XS, lens EF-S 55-250 and I was using my Nikon D5000. We were having a terrible time with the lighting as these are old vapor lights in this ancient building and with the horses moving there was a lot of bluring on the legs. What setting would any of you sugest for this kind of situation and lighting. I did brighten this up some.
A friend and I tried to shoot some action shots in... (show quote)


Here's the situation, you've got a black horse against a white(light colored) wall. Your auto-exposure camera will always take the average light reading of the brightest area and expose for that. It's like standing in front of a bright window or in the snow. The secret in "exposure compensation". Check your owner's manual to learn how to give extra exposure for the next time this situation occurs. The edit isn't perfect but it is lighter than the original.
quote=Mrsmoses A friend and I tried to shoot some... (show quote)

Thanks Bob, now what about the blur of the legs. Your little bit of tweeking is great.

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Sep 23, 2011 19:35:47   #
rocco_7155 Loc: Connecticut/Louisiana
 
you may also want to get lower so that her head isnt transected by the arena rail......

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Sep 23, 2011 19:42:32   #
Mrsmoses Loc: Oregon
 
rocco_7155 wrote:
you may also want to get lower so that her head isnt transected by the arena rail......


If I did that I would be ask by the professional photographer to leave the show. After all they get paid for their photos and as it
was they ask me if I was selling my photos. We in the stands are at a disadvantage for sure.

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Sep 23, 2011 19:46:40   #
liv2paddle Loc: Wall, NJ
 
The other issue along with the back and white problem..is the autofocus settings on your Nikon.can't speak for other shooter..put camera on af-c and trying panning the horseman..as he moves past you..(what I like to do is put the AE-L AF-L button set to AF-On ..and use the shutter button to set the Vr and release only).
You could spot meter as well..on horse..then make adjustments in exposure comp if needed.

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Sep 23, 2011 19:49:18   #
Mrsmoses Loc: Oregon
 
liv2paddle wrote:
The other issue along with the back and white problem..is the autofocus settings on your Nikon.can't speak for other shooter..put camera on af-c and trying panning the horseman..as he moves past you..(what I like to do is put the AE-L AF-L button set to AF-On ..and use the shutter button to set the Vr and release only).


Thanks. At the next show I will try that.

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Sep 23, 2011 20:08:00   #
bobmielke Loc: Portland, OR
 
Mrsmoses - I suspect your shutter speed was too slow to stop movement. I can't rebuild a blurred leg.

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Sep 23, 2011 20:25:38   #
Mrsmoses Loc: Oregon
 
bobmielke wrote:
Mrsmoses - I suspect your shutter speed was too slow to stop movement. I can't rebuild a blurred leg.


What speed should I have it on?

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Sep 23, 2011 20:28:33   #
bobmielke Loc: Portland, OR
 
Mrsmoses wrote:
bobmielke wrote:
Mrsmoses - I suspect your shutter speed was too slow to stop movement. I can't rebuild a blurred leg.


What speed should I have it on?


I wouldn't go any lower than 1/250th of a second, Maybe even 1/500th. I could not detect any EXIF data on your photograph's file so I don't know what shutter speed or aperture you were using.

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Sep 23, 2011 22:26:22   #
Mrsmoses Loc: Oregon
 
bobmielke wrote:
Mrsmoses wrote:
bobmielke wrote:
Mrsmoses - I suspect your shutter speed was too slow to stop movement. I can't rebuild a blurred leg.


What speed should I have it on?


I wouldn't go any lower than 1/250th of a second, Maybe even 1/500th. I could not detect any EXIF data on your photograph's file so I don't know what shutter speed or aperture you were using.


Here is the data. I don't know what all it means but its what I took off the properties:
Nikon D5000, f/5.3, Exposure time 1/250, Exposure bias -0.7 step, Max aperture 4.8, 160 mm

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Sep 23, 2011 22:29:27   #
Mrsmoses Loc: Oregon
 
Mrsmoses wrote:
bobmielke wrote:
Mrsmoses wrote:
bobmielke wrote:
Mrsmoses - I suspect your shutter speed was too slow to stop movement. I can't rebuild a blurred leg.


What speed should I have it on?


I wouldn't go any lower than 1/250th of a second, Maybe even 1/500th. I could not detect any EXIF data on your photograph's file so I don't know what shutter speed or aperture you were using.


Here is the data. I don't know what all it means but its what I took off the properties:
Nikon D5000, f/5.3, Exposure time 1/250, Exposure bias -0.7 step, Max aperture 4.8, 160 mm
quote=bobmielke quote=Mrsmoses quote=bobmielke ... (show quote)
EXIF 0221

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Sep 24, 2011 00:39:40   #
user2071 Loc: New England
 
Mrsmoses wrote:
A friend and I tried to shoot some action shots in the Salem, Oregon fairgrounds arena. My first love is the Morgan horse and this was a good show to attend. Friend was using a Cannon EOS Rebel XS, lens EF-S 55-250 and I was using my Nikon D5000. We were having a terrible time with the lighting as these are old vapor lights in this ancient building and with the horses moving there was a lot of bluring on the legs. What setting would any of you sugest for this kind of situation and lighting. I did brighten this up some.
A friend and I tried to shoot some action shots in... (show quote)


Poor light, a dark horse, with the rider wearing black: you did great. Other than a really much faster lens I doubt there is much you could have done. You can't shoot faster than your lens, no matter how much you may want to.

That is one thing about zooms: they are generally not real fast. For really fast, primes are generally better. You can WANT to set your shutter to 1/500 or whatever, but if your maximum aperture if f4 or f5.6 and the lighting isn't good, it isn't going to work. You can push the ISO to maybe 1600. That would give you some more latitude, but you'll lose resolution. I don't like to push it above 800, but if you have no other choice, it might be your best option.

I'm assuming that flash was out because of the horses ... don't want to spook them. So I think you did well given the circumstances and the equipment you had. Short of spending some big money on a fast long lens, you will just do the best you can with what you have. You can't always make it work the way you want.

Oh, one final, important thing: CHANGE THE LIGHT METER TO SPOT and get a reading on the HORSE, NOT a general reading, but a specific reading of the horse so that the camera does NOT average the scene. That's why you have different metering options. It's why I carry a hand held meter to work out complicated lighting situations.

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Sep 24, 2011 01:29:33   #
Mrsmoses Loc: Oregon
 
fivedawgz wrote:
Mrsmoses wrote:
A friend and I tried to shoot some action shots in the Salem, Oregon fairgrounds arena. My first love is the Morgan horse and this was a good show to attend. Friend was using a Cannon EOS Rebel XS, lens EF-S 55-250 and I was using my Nikon D5000. We were having a terrible time with the lighting as these are old vapor lights in this ancient building and with the horses moving there was a lot of bluring on the legs. What setting would any of you sugest for this kind of situation and lighting. I did brighten this up some.
A friend and I tried to shoot some action shots in... (show quote)


Poor light, a dark horse, with the rider wearing black: you did great. Other than a really much faster lens I doubt there is much you could have done. You can't shoot faster than your lens, no matter how much you may want to.

That is one thing about zooms: they are generally not real fast. For really fast, primes are generally better. You can WANT to set your shutter to 1/500 or whatever, but if your maximum aperture if f4 or f5.6 and the lighting isn't good, it isn't going to work. You can push the ISO to maybe 1600. That would give you some more latitude, but you'll lose resolution. I don't like to push it above 800, but if you have no other choice, it might be your best option.

I'm assuming that flash was out because of the horses ... don't want to spook them. So I think you did well given the circumstances and the equipment you had. Short of spending some big money on a fast long lens, you will just do the best you can with what you have. You can't always make it work the way you want.

Oh, one final, important thing: CHANGE THE LIGHT METER TO SPOT and get a reading on the HORSE, NOT a general reading, but a specific reading of the horse so that the camera does NOT average the scene. That's why you have different metering options. It's why I carry a hand held meter to work out complicated lighting situations.
quote=Mrsmoses A friend and I tried to shoot some... (show quote)


Thank you for your help.

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Sep 24, 2011 06:22:58   #
carbonterry Loc: St Louis MO area
 
Here's an edit in CS5.



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