Cdouthitt Loc: Traverse City, MI

It's not quite the same, but you can get some similar results with freelensing

http://petapixel.com/2013/04/30/a-photographers-guide-to-freelensing-the-poor-mans-tilt-shift-lens/

mcveed Loc: Kelowna, British Columbia (between trips)

The tilt-shift lens has two functions. One is the tilt - this tilts the front element of the lens to change the plane of focus. It is usually used to increase depth of field but it can also be used to decrease the depth of field for special effects. The second function is shifting the front element up or down to change the perspective of the image without tilting the camera. This tutorial explains how to use the shift feature and has a link near the end to a tutorial explaining the tilt feature.

http://www.cambridgeincolour.com/tutorials/tilt-shift-lenses1.htm

BboH Loc: s of 2/21, Ellicott City, MD

See Darwin Wiggett's site -

http://www.oopoomoo.com/tag/tilt-shift-lenses/

He wrote a PDF book that I found quite helpful in understanding the lens and its use.

rmalarz Loc: Tempe, Arizona

I use both front and rear tilt / shift, depending on the nature of the correction I'm needing. I mostly use front tilt to dramatically increase DOF.

Specifically, what are you trying to accomplish?
--Bob

mcveed Loc: Kelowna, British Columbia (between trips)

That link isn't very informative. But the pdf book looks very interesting. Ive been using my Nikon 24mm PC-E for years but there's always something else to learn.

amfoto1 Loc: San Jose, Calif. USA

As several responses have alluded, tilt-shift has several uses.

1. Perspective correction, such as correcting parallel lines of a building, countering the natural "keystone" effect when a tall object is photographed from a low angle. Both tilt and shift can be used to correct perspective.

Yes, some of this type of correction can be done in certain softwares, too... But there are limits to how much, both with tilt-shift lenses and with the software... sometimes a little from each can give the best results.

2. Plane of focus control. Tilting the lens can be used to increase or decrease plane of focus, or just position that plane more ideally for a particular subject. You can use it to create the "miniature" look... or to achieve extra deep plane of focus. The "tilt shift" mode in some point-n-shoot cameras or softwares usually render the "miniature scene" or "diorama" look. But using the 'Scheimflug' effect that Pablo8 mentioned, you also can do the opposite... increasing apparent depth of field. Or, turn the lens 90 degrees and you may be able to align the plane of focus with a row of trees tapering off into the distance, or similar.

3. "Sidestepping" is another thing you can do with shift. Basically, you can take a photo of a mirror without seeing yourself reflected in the mirror (or window or whatever). I don't know what to call this, so am using the term "sidestepping" for lack of something better. I've used this when shooting products that were highly reflective and not wanting to make "self portraits", for example.

4. Tilt-shift lenses also can be popular for multi-image panoramic shots... For example, take a shot with the lens shifted to one side, then another with it shifted to the opposite side, then combine the two images.

Tilt-shift lenses on DSLRs are rather limited. This is because their image circle is not terribly large and most only offer a few degrees of tilt and a few millimeters of shift.

Some tilt-shift lenses offer different features. For example, Canon's original three (24mm, 45mm and 90mm) come with the tilt and shift movements 90 degrees out of phase with each other. It is possible to disassemble the lenses, then reassemble them with the two movements aligned, which can be handy for certain types of shots where both movements are needed.

Canon's latest TS-E lenses (17mm and 24mm MkII) can be rotated to quickly and easily change the orientation of the two movements at any time. No doubt the Canon 45mm and 90mm will eventually see this change, too.

Classic view cameras... especially those designed for studio use... have more movement possible. Many of them have rise and fall (shift), swings (horizontal) and tilts (vertical) on both front (lens plane) and rear (film plane). These can be combined for extensive control over perspective, plane of focus control and more. Lenses used on view cameras can have exceptionally large image circles, too, allowing for a lot of movement. Or, you can use a step-down back, such as a 4x5" on an 8x10" camera... or a 6x7cm on a 4x5" camera... to have ample image circle to work with.

Pablo8 Loc: Nottingham UK.

3. "Sidestepping" is another thing you can do with shift. Basically, you can take a photo of a mirror without seeing yourself reflected in the mirror (or window or whatever). I don't know what to call this, so am using the term "sidestepping" for lack of something better. I've used this when shooting products that were highly reflective and not wanting to make "self portraits", for example
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This is called 'Cross-front' Where the lens standard is crossed (left or right)from the central position, but keeping parallel to the film standard. Same movement can be applied to the film standard on my Sinar. As you say, usefull for keeping camera reflection out of view when photograping mirror, or glass fronted painting, and you want the subject 'Square-On'.

Nightski

This is the shift function of the lens. There is a work around for this function however. If you have a tripod with a center post that can be moved to the horizontal position you can extend that center post out and get that window shot without your reflection .. I have done it. I have also used it to get a ground level shot without my shadow.

Pablo8 Loc: Nottingham UK.

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I would have thought that extending the camera out horizontally from the centre of the tripod, and still having the lens and film /sensor on a central axis. The camera reflection would still be visible to the camera. The 'Cross-Front' movement takes the lens off- axis in relation to the film/sensor.
Avoiding ones shadow, could be achieved by using a delayed action on the shutter. Most decent cameras have anything from two seconds to ten seconds delay .Press the shutter on delay action and move away from the tripod/camera.

Nightski

Don't get me wrong, Pablo ... I would LOVE to have that tilt shift lens .. but until that day comes ... if it comes ... I have to be creative. Yes.. I use my timer all the time for long exposures. I'm not sure I understand how that would help with shadows. How does that work?

melismus Loc: Chesapeake Bay Country

Pablo is not understanding that we want the reflection of the camera out of the picture, too.

Darkroom317 Loc: Mishawaka, IN

Which is what you can do with shifting the lens.

Pablo8 Loc: Nottingham UK.

To Melismus, and Nightski........... Perhaps reading my previous posts (slowly this time)... I described how, when using 'Cross-Front' on the lens standard, (or film standard) the reflection of the camera in the mirror would be avoided. The lens and film, are moved 'OFF-AXIS'. Simply sticking the camera out on a limb from the tripod, will not avoid getting the reflection of the camera.I use this function in my lecture with the Sinar 5 x 4.So I do know how to avoid the reflection exercise.
Using delayed action of the shutter (with the camera on a tripod). One trips the shutter (on a ten second delay), and moves away from the camera, taking your shadow with you. DO NOT leave your shadow behind when you move away from the camera!! It works for me, and I hear that there are some people who do not even cast a shadow, or reflection. I have yet to meet one of those.

Gene51 Loc: Yonkers, NY, now in LSD (LowerSlowerDelaware)

There may be software that can do it, but it is not hard to do in Photoshop or other applications that can do a reflected gradient mask. The concept is simple. You select something that needs to be in focus, and use a gradient mask to progressively mask the image, revealing a layer to which a strong amount of lens blur has been applied. This sets up the very narrow depth of field. Once you have the lens effect the way you like it, then you apply more saturation, to further promote the impression of a small or minature model.

I did a blog post on the process a while back, but there are easier ways to do it these days.

http://pixeldiarist.blogspot.com/2012/04/how-to-miniaturize-photo.html

Nightski - I did this, as you can see, with one image, two layers and a mirrored mask.

The opposite effect, as you show in your links and explanation, involves image stacking which you can do either with the traditional File->Scripts->Load Files into Stack where you load the images as layers, then edit align and edit blend with layers in Photoshop, or convert the layers to a smart object and select Mean as a stack mode.

The effect in Cdouthitt's posted image is done with camera lens movements by tilting the lens upward while the camera is tilted slightly downward, which decreases the depth of field. If you were to tilt the lens forward, the plane of focus also tilts forward, increasing the DOF.

Gene51 Loc: Yonkers, NY, now in LSD (LowerSlowerDelaware)

And there are some that do not show a reflection in a mirror. Must be cousins. :)