I am currently using C1 with an iMac and MacBook Pro, and it works fine. I'm thinking about getting an iPad Pro for use while traveling and wonder if anyone has used an Ipad with C1 and how well it works.
Second question: C1 makes a slimmed down version for iPad but I assume one can use the regular C1 Pro that I have been using. Am I right?
Third question: I plan to get an iPad keyboard but need advice on which one to get, the Magic or Smart keyboard. I would prefer the latter because it is lighter and more compact if there is no good editing reason to have the touchpad. I will get a Pencil in either case.

Thanks in advance,
Larry

I agree with Stan. All are excellent but I like 4 best.
Larry

A scan of the actual study suggests two things: 1) that it is a pretty good study, although the number of subjects is smallish...130 subjects for the part of the study where one's memory for touring with and without cameras is tested a week later...that is a small number especially when trying to detect a small difference in memory, and 2) we might expect a very different result, reversed perhaps, if the memory test had been done a month or a year after the church tour when memory from the time of the tour would have faded while memory from photos taken might have remained fairly constant (depending on how much and whether they have been reviewed, printed out or otherwise displayed. Note that there was no difference in memory if zoom cameras were used thereby allowing focussing (the camera and the mind) on details of the scene.
I have lots of personal data - memory and the lack of it - to support the claim that "if I didn't take photos, it didn't happen."

Those are wonderful shots, Gene.

I agree totally.
I got the RX10M4 and now find I never use my APSC cameras. Probably never will. Probably never will go full-frame either, but who knows. What I know is that my success rate on photos is far better than on my other gear.

Assuming you will take less than 128 GB or so of photos, I have found the smallest, simplest and probably cheapest solution is to take a thumb drive. No moving parts and no big deal to take two if you're like me who isn't comfortable with fewer than three copies of my photos (counting the SD original).
WOOPS! Forgot: no laptop or tablet!

Not zero, obviously. But at that rate my 1 A-hr Sony battery would discharge to 50% in just under 23 yr!! In practice batteries drain much more rapidly than that on their own internally, i.e., chemically. In comparison the draining-due-to-discharding-thru-the-charger is for all intents and purposes zero.

I often do the same as the OP...leave the last-charged battery in charger. I do this mostly because I always know that that battery is charged. And as I noted earlier, my good-enough tests show that the battery stays charged effectively as long as if I remove it. Not a big deal for me but that's why I do it.

I have tested this with my Sony chargers, not a quantitative test but a qualitative one, and have found that
the batteries do not discharge more than if removed from the charger.

Thanks, Gene & Bob.
You have helped a lot to organize my thinking.

What we know is that light scattered by the atmosphere (haze and blue sky) has the greatest polarization when looking at right angles to the Sun, and the polarization is perpendicular to the line between the Sun and the spot you are looking at. That info is very helpful in darkening the sky or eliminating haze.

But light scattered from dielectrics (non-metallics, the surface of water or leaves, say) is most greatly polarized when its angle with the surface is 34 degrees for water (and similarly for plant surfaces), and the polarization direction is parallel to the surface. So the polarization direction varies all over the place for plant surfaces depending on how the leaf is oriented and it's a bit hard to see how the rule for atmospheric scattering also holds for leaf reflection.

What IS clear is that, if the plant is illuminated by direct sunlight (i.e., not an overcast day), the direction of polarization from plant-reflected light is perpendicular to the plant-to-Sun direction, and the strongest polarization will be when the Sun is approximately at right angles to the direction you are looking (but related to greatest pol for reflection, so not exactly 90 deg), AS GENE & BOB SAID.

If it is cloudy, there is no general rule because plant surfaces at all kinds of angles will reflect the diffuse light from the sky so there will be no preferred pol direction. That was the situation I faced a couple days ago, which explains why I was not able to see any preferred polarization as I turned the polarizer...there was no preferred polarization.

Recently, I was trying to adjust my polarizer angle to reduce reflections from leaves etc., in a scene with lots of vegetation. A nearby professional saw me struggle with deciding which position was best and said, "If it's hard to see the best angle, raise straight up and adjust the filter so the blue sky is darkest...that will also be best for reducing reflections in your scene." My reaction was that it would be nice if it were true, what he said, but I was skeptical. What do others think? Maybe there is an accepted solution to this problem, but I have been unable to find it. I haven't had the time to really test his idea, but will do so. Just hoping feedback from you guys will give me some ideas to try.

When people talk about touring Scotland, few mention Orkney. Before my first trip there I asked a friend who had spent a year in Scotland to recommend some places to visit. His first three recommendations were Orkney, Orkney, Orkney. It is a magical place with lots of history both recent and ancient, evocative stone circles, and a highlight mentioned by none of the guidebooks: a police department in Kirkwall that kindly took back the parking ticket we got when my wife explained that we were stupid Americans who didn't know how to decipher the No Parking markings.

I second photogeneralist's comments. I looked at the first one and thought, "Nice." At the second one, "Wow," much more immediate impact. Which to me is more important than an analysis, but ignoring that, the petals of the second one lead you into the central bud-base (or whatever you call it) which sparkles with detail. The undeveloped bud at the lower left distracts, particularly because it seems to come from nowhere, and I would crop it out, perhaps shifting the crop upwards to exclude that bulb and include more of the petal tips at the top. But it is fine as is.

Gene, how is LR better than C!? Like the OP, I am on a trial of C1 and am impressed with how it does in photo processing, but I have not investigated the ins-and-outs of the catalog the way I have with LR, hence my question to you. If you want to use catalogs rather than sessions in C1, what doesn't work so well?
Thanks,
Larry

"Lesson learned, though. I usually cull, import to LR and then backup. From now on, I'll back up, cull, import to LR, so that if something similar happens, I'll still have the backup files."

Good idea.
When I do a shoot, my first thought is to make sure I have at least two copies of the photos. So I copy the files to my computer and either leave them on the camera card as well, or more commonly leave them on the card AND copy to a second HD or (if traveling) to a USB drive...for a total of three copies.