I am nearsighted, but can see well enough to get by without a diopter adjustment. Moreover, because of the nearsightedness I can see up close. My question is: if I focus manually, would I end up in the same place as I would have had I made a diopter adjustment or wore my glasses. My thinking is that what is in focus with my uncorrected vision might prove to be out of focus when viewed with my glasses or a diopter adjustment, and vice-versa. Any thoughts on this? It seems logical that to be truly in focus I would have to correct my nearsightedness first.
Are you using the same lens on both cameras? Different lenses will produce different results.
Have tried calibrating the camera with the lens using an angled ruler? I purchased a brand new Sigma 24-35mm f/2, and could not read anything on the calibration ruler until I set the AF-Fine Tune to +10, and it finally took a +20 adjustment to calibrate it. There was nothing wrong with the camera.
If you have a long quick release plate on the foot of your lens collar, or on the camera itself if you don't have a collar, then you can move the camera back and forth until it is balanced.
I don't understand the childish hostility of the people objecting to original post. If the guy bought a D-850 that grinds when a lens is attached and won't focus to infinity with certain lenses, it is certainly worth letting others know about it.
My experience is that there really is a slight degradation when using any filter, including a UV filter. However, I don't know whether that necessarily applies with a really high end filter, like one from Breakthrough. I would be interest in hearing whether others feel that there a reduction in IQ when a really good filter is used.
I put each days shoot in a folder with the date first, (year, month, day, in that order for sorting purposes), followed by the name of the location. I am a bird photographer, so each bird has a key name for the common and scientific name of the bird (or other animal or person if not a bird). In Library mode at the bottom, is a blank field for File Name, where I paste the name used as a key name (referred to in the previous sentence. Then I rename the picture(s) (F2 is the shortcut I think), usually in a batch all at once, by selecting from the rename options, "Folder Name and File Name." It is really pretty simple, and I then have each picture named by date, place and subject, which can be really handy, especially if you are sending a jpeg in an email.
Noel C. Ice
teleice@earthlink.net
I see little comment on the fact that once you go from Lightroom to Photoshop and then leave Photoshop, you have just left RAW too. In other words, after editing in Photoshop the file is no longer a RAW file. Further, two out of the three options for exporting from Lightroom to Photoshop destroy all Lightroom adjustments. Anyone have any thoughts on this. I don't see it discussed much.
Everything I have read suggests that the Sports version is slightly sharper. I have the contemporary version and a Nikon 200-500, and find the latter to be definitely the better of the two.
LR and ACR are basically the same thing, except that LR allows you to tag your photos so that you can later easily find them by entering the necessary criteria. If you have developed a large library, this is invaluable, more than that, it is a necessity.
Once you have the photo open in LR, and are done editing it, export it in JPG. The export dialog box will ask where you want to export it to.
On a similar note, check out CreativeLive. It has a instructional course on the D500 that is several hours long.
I would say picking your aperture, as you are doing, to get the ideal depth of field, and relying on your meter to tell you the shutter speed should get ideal pictures, depending on whether or not a faster or slower shutter speed would be desirable for reasons other than exposure. One thing worth considering, which can be done with most Nikon cameras, is to set your aperture, and float your ISO, using the automatic ISO setting. You can set an upper and lower limit on the ISO to avoid too much noise. In that case you can also set a minimum shutter speed and cause the shutter speed to adjust if the ISO maxes out. I call it semi-manual, and use it all the time.
I think you can use just about any Arca quick release plate on your camera/lens so long as you have an Arca plate on your tripod. Many tripods allow you to remove the clamp it shipped with and replace it. I really like the Desmond P-70 70mm QR Lens Plate Arca Compatible Dual Dovetail and D-Ring P70 DP-70. You can get a DP-50, but I feel more secure with the larger plate.
Try the free png converter from Nikon, which converts RAW files to png. I had to use this after I purchased my new D500. After converting to dng, I had know problem in LR.