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Posts for: oldtool2
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Jun 20, 2015 10:01:43   #
joer wrote:
I suspect gimbals can be more stable with a long heavy lens because they allow you to balance the camera.


A gimbal is the only way to go with a long lens. The Nest that MT sells is excellent.

Jim D
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Jun 20, 2015 09:35:46   #
Didereaux wrote:
Can't do much better than a Canon 24-105mm
:thumbup: :thumbup: :thumbup:


Own it and love it. Small, light and accurate. Excellent I Q. And it is a BLACK "L" lens so when someone looks at it they don't realize it is a Canon "L" lens.

I don't think this is what the OP is looking for though.

Jim D
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Jun 20, 2015 09:13:15   #
joer wrote:
All sound advice although I've never been able to figure out what rolling your finger is.

There are so many small things to overcome that go unnoticed with short lenses.


Gently pressing your finger from the side over the shutter instead of just pushing it. I, like you, prefer a remote because I have neuropathy in my right hand and can't feel the button.

Jm D
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Jun 19, 2015 10:56:12   #
jteee wrote:
I just need to bounce this off someone who may know the scoop. I have had my Sigma 150-500 for about a year and a half, and have had mixed success with it (with my Canon 6D). Shooting handheld has been, for the most part, a complete failure (regardless of the shutter speed), so I shoot primarily on tripod with shutter release. I've come to the conclusion that if the subject is over 100 feet, my success of getting a sharp image is around 10%, and if it is a bird, probably less than that (I seem to have a bit better success with larger animals). Inside of 100 feet I have gotten some very good, very sharp images. So the question is, is this fairly normal? I've done the focus calibration thing, and it seems to be good. I primarily use AF, single point, and have tried establishing focus on bodies, eyes, edges, etc. with no appreciable difference in success. OS is turned off. Is this just the difference between a 1K lens and a 8K lens? Any other thoughts would be appreciated. ( I have included a recent example for your review. This was probably at about 125 ft, tripod, remote release)
I just need to bounce this off someone who may kno... (show quote)


A tripod or monopod is a must unless you can get a good FAST shutter speed. This lens is far from the best, sharpest, lens contrary to popular belief. Some swear by it, others swear at it. What made it so popular is the price but you are getting what you paid for.

At 500mm it loses a lt of sharpness. Back the lens off a little to say 470mm or 480mm will help you get sharper photos than at 500mm.

Jim D
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Jun 9, 2015 11:24:49   #
reidnebs24 wrote:
I have a Canon 70D and I was just wondering what you guys think I should get to help improve my photography and my photos? I am planning on getting a Canon 70-200mm f/2.8 because I will be doing a lot of sports photography. What else do you think I could get to help me?


The 70-200f 2.8 is a good place to start. Nice lens, sharp and good for low light.

What sports are you planning to shoot? This will make a difference in the lenses recommended.

As far as "improve my photography and my photos? " goes go take a LOT of photos, practice, practice and more practice!. Equipment does help make a difference in the quality of your photos but nothing is more important than understanding and learning to use what you have!

Jim D
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Jun 9, 2015 11:09:55   #
Gene51 wrote:
Yes. you can either shoot at your current settings and use a lower ISO for less noise, more dynamic range and better color, or you can combine slightly lower ISO with slightly higher shutter speed / smaller aperture.

Are you using a Sigma lens or a Canon. Your listing is confusing.

If you have the Canon lens, and it is this one:

http://www.photozone.de/canon_eos_ff/558-canon70300f456isff?start=1

Then you have a great lens, so upgrading the camera is a good way to go. But I would go for the 5D MkIII which is a far better piece of equipment - I just found one with low miles (3000 clicks) doing a casual search on ebay with a buy-it-now price of only $1400. You should be able to find a nice one for anywhere from $1400 to $1800 and you will be quite happy. At some point in the future after a successful trip to Las Vegas, you can get the expensive fast glass.
Yes. you can either shoot at your current settings... (show quote)


Gene,

I agree that the 5d III would be a better option than the 5D II. However sense he makes no mention of shooting wildlife or birds the 6D might be a better option. It will do everything he wants and is much more affordable. Here is an excellent buy on one:

http://www.adorama.com/ICA6DOB.html

The 6D has newer technology than the 5D III and I think it will handle low light better.

Jim D
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Jun 7, 2015 08:49:37   #
MarkintheHV wrote:
A little bird kept dive bombing this guy, and he wasnt happy


Mark,

Fantastic shots of a great bird! I would tell you that 600mm is doing a great job for you but we both know that it is the artist (photographer) and not the lens. Your settings were perfect.

Now go dig some worms and feed that little bird! I have seen small birds buzz eagle nests before and have got to wonder what they hope to gain? Makes no sense to me.

Jim D
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May 27, 2015 23:45:14   #
SharpShooter wrote:
I always read these BBF conversations with a bit of interest AND with a grain of salt!
TOO many of these conversations start to sound like those of the manual mode shooters, as if BBF is somehow inherently better.
As with a lot of this, BBF is better for some shooting but not for others.
I of course only know how this relates to Canons, and higher end Canons at that.
To start with, unless you have actually set some custom functions, the BB and the Shutter Button(SB) are exactly the same. The BB doesn't do ANYTHING any different than the SB.
For me personally, I have found that if I have a 1/4 of a second to pick up my camera and get a shot I can find my SB way faster than my BB and much more likely to actually land that shot! The SB is just WAY more ergo, more than 3/8 " in dia. and the ONLY button on the front of the camera versus that tiny row of 1/8" buttons along the back of the camera.
To use BB means you are using TWO buttons which WILL double your rate of error, since you HAVE to use the shutter button as well in conjunction with BB.
I find that FOR ME it's way easier to use the shutter button with smaller lenses, say up to a 100-400, then using the BB with bigger lenses as they get harder to handle!
My conclusion is that just as with priority modes, which and how I set up my BB depends on what I'm shooting and how I'm shooting it! And I can set up my preferred BB situation on my Custom Modes so I can switch it in and out as I switch lenses.
As to the CoC question, that's a whole nother BBQ! ;-)
SS
I always read these BBF conversations with a bit o... (show quote)


SS,

As usual much of what you post is true. Bottom line to each their own. I find BBF very convenient, mainly because of my neuropathy I have in my right hand. I find it hard to get the shutter at 1/2 way to focus because I can
t feel it.

As for the shutter button not doing anything different you and I know that can be changed such as disabling focus on that button. The only time I don't disable it is if I am using a remote release.

Jim D
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May 27, 2015 12:53:20   #
jeep_daddy wrote:
The back button focus doesn't hold any parameters. When you release the BBF it simply stops focusing - period. So if your subject doesn't move farther or closer to your lens, in theory your focus should be fine. But if your hand is touching the focus ring, or your f/stop is such that you have a shallow DOF, then you might experience out of focus shots. You have to know what you DOF is, and you must know for sure that your subject hasn't moved closer or farther. The good news is that you thumb should be resting on the BBF so you can just press it if you see a change. Keep practicing.
The back button focus doesn't hold any parameters.... (show quote)


I always liked the second base explanation.

You are at a ballgame and you know the guy on first I going to steal second. Using BBF you focus on second base and wait As he starts to slide you fire your shutter for 10 to 15 frames at between 6 to 10 fps, depending on your camera. It is a fairly good bet you will get him as his foot hits the plate, in focus. Of course using a shutter release would be a big help.

If you try this with the shutter focusing it is a good bet you will miss the shot as the camera tries to adjust and focs.

Jim D
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May 27, 2015 12:37:07   #
streetmarty wrote:
This is very interesting thank you. I went to this site. Please correct me if Im wrong. 200mm f/4 at 1000 feet, I can set hyperfocal distance to 1641 feet. I do have a range finder so Id have no problem measuring the 1641 feet.By doing so my sharp depth of field goes from 820.5 feet to infinity. So if that is the case the deer, or whatever, can move toward me 180 feet or away from me x amount of feet and still be sharp? Why do I feel that's to good to be true.


I don't know what camera you are using. With a Canon5D III using your setting (200mm, f4.0, 100 feet) anything that is 477.5 feet in front to infinity behind will be in focus. From 522.5 feet on out you would maintain focus. Keep in mind that would not be your best setting but those are the numbers.

Jim D
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May 27, 2015 12:14:10   #
Woodham Lock wrote:
Weighing up two options. Sigma 150-600 Sport (where I also have to buy new filters for the larger thread) versus Canon 100-400 USM II with existing 1.4 III Extender. Any thoughts?


As always a lot depends on what you are going to do. Here are two links to using the Sigma sport with a 1.4X TC:

http://www.uglyhedgehog.com/t-301940-1.html

http://www.uglyhedgehog.com/t-296454-1.html

This gives you an 840mm lens, but do you need that? The Sigma is much heavier making it hard to hand hold for any length of time. That is its only disadvantage. If you are NOT going to do a lot of hand holding that is the way I would go. The extra reach you can get might be a big advantage.

Jim D
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May 27, 2015 11:49:43   #
Rich1939 wrote:
While you are tracking your subject hold the back button in and continue to hold it while you press (release) the shutter. Shutter actuation will override the focus at the instant of actually recording the image, hopefully giving you the most accurate focus. As a side benefit it will have you in position for a follow up shot.


Rich,

This depends on how you have your shutter button set. I disable focus off of the shutter button so it can't focus. I figure if I am going to leave focus on the shutter why bother with the BBF?

One of the big advantages of BBF is the camera is already focused when I trip the shutter. The camera does not need to take the time to recalculate and then refocus, it is already done.

Jim
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May 27, 2015 11:07:02   #
streetmarty wrote:
I can draw a pretty big circle. Are you referring to what I see through the view finder as my drawn circle? Pretend I'm 6 years old instead of 60. LOL Thanks Jim


You could say that. Lets say you are focused at 100 yards. Now turn completely around. You just made a circle which would be at a 100 yard radius. Anything that was 100 yards away would have been in focus. Doesn't matter which way you turned as long as it is 100 yards away it will be in focus. The + or _ is your DOF which will vary according to your settings. See:

http://www.dofmaster.com/dofjs.html

When tracking say a BIF I will often tap the BB causing the camera to refocus every time I tap that button.
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May 26, 2015 10:04:23   #
streetmarty wrote:
Hi, I have been using BBF for a little while but still have this question. Steve Perry says as long as your subject stays on the same focal plane you are locked in. Steve shows in his video a cartoon of a deer moving laterally and staying in focus because the focal plane hasn't changed. My question is what type of range will stay in focus. If the deer moves 10 feet laterally am I still in focus? There has to be a limit here. What about if the deer moves 2 feet closer, or two feet back, the focal plane has now changed correct? I guess am asking what kind of parameters does back button hold? Thank you.
Hi, I have been using BBF for a little while but s... (show quote)


Draw a circle, put an X in the middle. Any thing on that circle line will be in focus, + or - your DOF.

Is this what you are asking?

Jim D
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May 26, 2015 09:48:57   #


They had this on Fox news the other day. I knew when we post on a social media site we give up the rights to the photo, but come on! How low can you go?

Jim D
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