Focusing Tele
Jun 18, 2015 08:57:21 #
I just need to bounce this off someone who may know the scoop. I have had my Sigma 150-500 for about a year and a half, and have had mixed success with it (with my Canon 6D). Shooting handheld has been, for the most part, a complete failure (regardless of the shutter speed), so I shoot primarily on tripod with shutter release. I've come to the conclusion that if the subject is over 100 feet, my success of getting a sharp image is around 10%, and if it is a bird, probably less than that (I seem to have a bit better success with larger animals). Inside of 100 feet I have gotten some very good, very sharp images. So the question is, is this fairly normal? I've done the focus calibration thing, and it seems to be good. I primarily use AF, single point, and have tried establishing focus on bodies, eyes, edges, etc. with no appreciable difference in success. OS is turned off. Is this just the difference between a 1K lens and a 8K lens? Any other thoughts would be appreciated. ( I have included a recent example for your review. This was probably at about 125 ft, tripod, remote release)
Jun 18, 2015 09:09:00 #
Your lens works its best from F8 - F11, with OS on when handheld. Proper AT tuning is critical on these long zooms and is often the fault of soft images often reported in online reviews. As with any tele, proper technique is also critical as the field of view is so narrow on these long lenses. Good luck, and practice breathing techniques.
Jun 18, 2015 09:37:36 #
At 500mm there is so much camera movement just from being handheld that a tripod is necessary. I can get some good hand held shots, but mostly needs to be on a monopod or tripod
Jun 18, 2015 10:02:56 #
Practice practice practice. As MT says, proper technique is critical. Every situation is different and requires different camera and lens settings.
I was shooting with 3 other people the other day and 2 of them had lenses like yours. I have a Canon 500mm f/4 lens and one has a Nikon P600 bridge camera. We were shooting Burrowing Owls in Chino CA, and that sky was somewhat overcast, temp was around 85 degrees, the owls were on the ground surrounded by dry light tan or brown colored grass and non of us could achieve a good focus on the owls that were about 60 feet away. Why? Because the atmosphere was such that the lenses were only going to capture a soft image no matter what until the atmosphere changed. All the DSLR's were the same 7DMkII camera bodies and 2 out of 3 of us were on tripods. I have to admit though, mine had an easier time of focusing and had a little better image than my friends with the Tamrons. After a while, something unseen in the atmosphere changed and we were able to focus. I've seen this happen many times.
If you look through binoculars at something far away and you see those wavy distorted things in the distance, that's what is the cause except that it can be captured with a large lens on subjects that are closer and cause soft images. So the time of day, position of your light source, the heat, and many other things factor into capturing a good sharp image.
I was shooting with 3 other people the other day and 2 of them had lenses like yours. I have a Canon 500mm f/4 lens and one has a Nikon P600 bridge camera. We were shooting Burrowing Owls in Chino CA, and that sky was somewhat overcast, temp was around 85 degrees, the owls were on the ground surrounded by dry light tan or brown colored grass and non of us could achieve a good focus on the owls that were about 60 feet away. Why? Because the atmosphere was such that the lenses were only going to capture a soft image no matter what until the atmosphere changed. All the DSLR's were the same 7DMkII camera bodies and 2 out of 3 of us were on tripods. I have to admit though, mine had an easier time of focusing and had a little better image than my friends with the Tamrons. After a while, something unseen in the atmosphere changed and we were able to focus. I've seen this happen many times.
If you look through binoculars at something far away and you see those wavy distorted things in the distance, that's what is the cause except that it can be captured with a large lens on subjects that are closer and cause soft images. So the time of day, position of your light source, the heat, and many other things factor into capturing a good sharp image.
Jun 18, 2015 10:05:23 #
A few months ago I purchased a 200-400 and a TC1.4 and have been having similar problems. My self review is that it is not missing the focus, but it is camera/lens movement.
I purchased a gimbal head to use on the tripod for birds and this helped, mostly I think because the gimbal head is real heavy. Handheld I only shoot close and fast with VR (Nikon) on. I sometime shoot with the gimbal head loose so I can pan and follow birds on the ground. Then I keep the VR on also. I have been unable to catch any flying birds as the view is so narrow. I follow someone on Fb who is very good. She shoots 300mm with TC1.4, with a frame mounted on her body with belts. Look up Nancy Elwood (NElwood) on Fb for some good examples.
Lastly, I did some research on technique. I found that some shooters lay their arm over the lens when on a tripod to help dampen the tripod/lens vibration. When I do this I just shake the lens. I tried another strategy with pretty good success for still shots. I purchased a bean bag and I lay it along the top of the lens. This seems to dampen the vibration and sharpen the photos a bit. Works well with birds on a feeder, especially with Mirror Up and cable release.
Unless the wrong part of you image is in focus then it is likely a technique problem. I suggest you try every "stillness" technique at the same time and then slowly remove one at a time to see what makes the most difference. Mirror Up, cable release, high iso, fast speed, F8 (or your sweet spot), point focus and meter, etc. Start at the short end of your zoom and work your way longer noting at what point things get soft. Suggest you do this with a still sharp object so you can compare images from different distances/zooms.
Good luck and keep practicing.
I purchased a gimbal head to use on the tripod for birds and this helped, mostly I think because the gimbal head is real heavy. Handheld I only shoot close and fast with VR (Nikon) on. I sometime shoot with the gimbal head loose so I can pan and follow birds on the ground. Then I keep the VR on also. I have been unable to catch any flying birds as the view is so narrow. I follow someone on Fb who is very good. She shoots 300mm with TC1.4, with a frame mounted on her body with belts. Look up Nancy Elwood (NElwood) on Fb for some good examples.
Lastly, I did some research on technique. I found that some shooters lay their arm over the lens when on a tripod to help dampen the tripod/lens vibration. When I do this I just shake the lens. I tried another strategy with pretty good success for still shots. I purchased a bean bag and I lay it along the top of the lens. This seems to dampen the vibration and sharpen the photos a bit. Works well with birds on a feeder, especially with Mirror Up and cable release.
Unless the wrong part of you image is in focus then it is likely a technique problem. I suggest you try every "stillness" technique at the same time and then slowly remove one at a time to see what makes the most difference. Mirror Up, cable release, high iso, fast speed, F8 (or your sweet spot), point focus and meter, etc. Start at the short end of your zoom and work your way longer noting at what point things get soft. Suggest you do this with a still sharp object so you can compare images from different distances/zooms.
Good luck and keep practicing.
Jun 18, 2015 10:27:58 #
Thanks for all the good info everybody, I'm still trying to master the Sigma 150-500 as well. Even though it's a beast, I would much rather perfect my technique enough to hand hold it in most situation, since I'm usually hiking around. That's the beauty of the Hog, we all learn a little from each other as we journey along...
Jun 19, 2015 06:47:54 #
jteee wrote:
I just need to bounce this off someone who may kno... (show quote)
I would rethink the use of a remote release.
http://www.moosepeterson.com/techtips/longlens.html
It's not the finger on the shutter, but shutter (not mirror) movement that is probably causing softness, especially if you have a less than adequate support.
What tripod are you using?
The lens you have is not the sharpest at 500 wide open. It improves considerably at 450mm and F8.
There is no question that a more expensive lens will provide better results.
D300, 600mm F4, 1/160, F8, ISO 400 distance around 100 ft
(Download)
D800, 600mm F4, 1/2000, F6.3, ISO 200 - distance around 300 ft.
(Download)
Jun 19, 2015 06:53:32 #
Gene51 wrote:
I would rethink the use of a remote release.
http://www.moosepeterson.com/techtips/longlens.html
It's not the finger on the shutter, but shutter (not mirror) movement that is probably causing softness, especially if you have a less than adequate support.
What tripod are you using?
The lens you have is not the sharpest at 500 wide open. It improves considerably at 450mm and F8.
There is no question that a more expensive lens will provide better results.
http://www.moosepeterson.com/techtips/longlens.html
It's not the finger on the shutter, but shutter (not mirror) movement that is probably causing softness, especially if you have a less than adequate support.
What tripod are you using?
The lens you have is not the sharpest at 500 wide open. It improves considerably at 450mm and F8.
There is no question that a more expensive lens will provide better results.
Good tip & link Gene!
:thumbup:
Jun 19, 2015 06:59:35 #
Dngallagher wrote:
Good tip & link Gene!
:thumbup:
:thumbup:
Thanks Don!
Jun 19, 2015 09:04:49 #
jteee wrote:
I just need to bounce this off someone who may kno... (show quote)
I've had success using a monopod as well as handheld with sufficient shutter speed on a Tamron 150-600.
Jun 19, 2015 10:38:32 #
Mark7829
Loc: Calfornia
[quote=jteee]I just need to bounce this off someone who may know the scoop. I have had my Sigma 150-500 for about a year and a half, and have had mixed success with it (with my Canon 6D). Shooting handheld has been, for the most part, a complete failure (regardless of the shutter speed), so I shoot primarily on tripod with shutter release. I've come to the conclusion that if the subject is over 100 feet, my success of getting a sharp image is around 10%, and if it is a bird, probably less than that (I seem to have a bit better success with larger animals). Inside of 100 feet I have gotten some very good, very sharp images. So the question is, is this fairly normal? I've done the focus calibration thing, and it seems to be good. I primarily use AF, single point, and have tried establishing focus on bodies, eyes, edges, etc. with no appreciable difference in success. OS is turned off. Is this just the difference between a 1K lens and a 8K lens? Any other thoughts would be appreciated. ( I have included a recent example for your review. This was probably at about 125 ft, tripod, remote release)[/quote
Send it back to Sigma. You should get excellent images throughout the focal range. You are likely not going to find a solution here. Lots of recommendations but the lens needs a professional.
Send it back to Sigma. You should get excellent images throughout the focal range. You are likely not going to find a solution here. Lots of recommendations but the lens needs a professional.
Jun 19, 2015 10:56:12 #
jteee wrote:
I just need to bounce this off someone who may kno... (show quote)
A tripod or monopod is a must unless you can get a good FAST shutter speed. This lens is far from the best, sharpest, lens contrary to popular belief. Some swear by it, others swear at it. What made it so popular is the price but you are getting what you paid for.
At 500mm it loses a lt of sharpness. Back the lens off a little to say 470mm or 480mm will help you get sharper photos than at 500mm.
Jim D
Jun 19, 2015 15:24:17 #
Shooting with a long lens, any long lens, requires practice and familiarity. The best thing to do, after all the housekeeping chores, is to practice, practice and practice some more. I have a (9 month old) Sigma Sport 150-600 ($2,000) and a Nikon 400/2.8 (now $ 12,000) and I find that the Nikon gets better results. I think the Sigma is a nice lens, but it is not as good as a fixed focal length Nikon, or Canon for that matter, expensive prime. Go figure!
Jun 19, 2015 23:10:58 #
My wife shoots a d5200 with a sigma 150-500...and I shoot a d7100 with a tam 150-600...we shoot mostly BIF...and both perform very well for the money...it takes practice...these are not P & S...they are heavy combos...we shoot held...and use $20 pistol grips that move the center of gravity about 6" forward of the camera body...
Jun 20, 2015 02:30:22 #
Gene51 wrote:
I would rethink the use of a remote release.
http://www.moosepeterson.com/techtips/longlens.html
It's not the finger on the shutter, but shutter (not mirror) movement that is probably causing softness, especially if you have a less than adequate support.
What tripod are you using?
The lens you have is not the sharpest at 500 wide open. It improves considerably at 450mm and F8.
There is no question that a more expensive lens will provide better results.
http://www.moosepeterson.com/techtips/longlens.html
It's not the finger on the shutter, but shutter (not mirror) movement that is probably causing softness, especially if you have a less than adequate support.
What tripod are you using?
The lens you have is not the sharpest at 500 wide open. It improves considerably at 450mm and F8.
There is no question that a more expensive lens will provide better results.
All sound advice although I've never been able to figure out what rolling your finger is.
There are so many small things to overcome that go unnoticed with short lenses.
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