You won't like the results. To get good fireworks photo, you need to leave the shutter open for several seconds to catch the entire fireworks display as it unfolds in the sky. Each video frame will only be a fraction of a second.

My first attempt. Beginners luck. Transit time was only 0.5 sec. I was shooting continuous and by luck caught the ISS in the center of the sun. And focus is good. I've taken others where the focus is a little soft.

I thought about taking off the solar filter and focusing on the moon. But that probably won't be an option for the eclipse since it'll be a new moon.

I'm going to keep it simple and enjoy the experience. The best photo I take may be my iPhone selfie during totality.

I have also been photographing the sun using a D7100, Nikon 200-500mm lens with 1.4x TC and the Thousand Oaks solar filter. My experience. . .

1. Forget the tripod with that lens. It is just too hard to find the sun, especially when the sun is almost overhead. You finally get the sun, and then you have to continually adjust the tripod to keep the sun in view. Way too much work without a telescope mount. I want to enjoy the eclipse.

2. For the eclipse, I will use a tripod but with a wider angle lens. Point the camera at the part of the sky where the total eclipse will take place, +/- 90 minutes, and then take a series of photos without moving the camera. There really aren't any details to capture until you get to totality. I can use the big lens during totality without needing the solar filter.

3. It is quite easy to take handheld photos of the sun at maximum zoom. You get to use a fast shutter speed. I've been taking pictures of the International Space Station as it transits the sun, and I use a shutter speed of 1/2000 or faster to stop the motion of the ISS. I've learned to pick up the camera and find the sun in less than 10 seconds. And I have no trouble keeping the camera on the sun once I find it. I align my body with the sun so that I can raise the camera straight up until I see the sun in the view finder.

4. My problem is focusing. Modern lenses don't have a hard stop at infinity and there is very little contrast on the sun to focus on. Auto-focus works best, but it is inconsistent. About half the time I get sharp focus on sunspots, and the other half the focus is a little soft. The LCD on the camera is not good enough to tell the difference. You can't see what you have until you get to a computer monitor. Manual focusing is worse, the view finder resolution is terrible, and all my manual focus shots have been out of focus. (I'm considering using my old manual Nikkor 300mm lens, less reach but at least it is always in focus.)

ISS using Nikon D7100, 200-500mm lens and 1.4X TC

(Download)

The D7000 is one of the cameras which is "ISO invariant." You get essentially the same result from increasing the ISO in the camera, or shooting at base ISO and increasing exposure in post. Your choice. It's been discussed in UHH a few times. For example, see:
http://www.uglyhedgehog.com/t-389822-1.html

In Flickr, in the lower right, there is a download arrow. Click it, and you will have an option to get the original file.

You could put your name in the copyright field.

There is software to automatically rename the files.

Everything you ever wanted to know about SD cards is here.
http://www.cameramemoryspeed.com/

I just tried a Nikon 52mm lens cap on the SX50 and it fits perfect.

Proving membership is not an issue. There are no requirements for membership. So if you know about the UHH discount, then by definition you are a member.

Did you try the "search" feature? Under "Advanced options" you can limit the search to the classified ads. I got many hits searching for "sx50".

Things to try:
Remove lens and clean the contacts.
Remove battery for a few minutes.
Reset camera to factory defaults. (in Setup menu)

Go ahead try the "Kenko 1.4x Pro 300 Teleconverter DGX Nikon AF Mount ($83)". Not a big investment. Kenko claims it is compatible with your lens and I believe the D600 will still autofocus at f/8. So it should work. If you don't like the results, then you can always sell it.

I'd get a used Sony A6000 and the Sigma 30mm f/2.8 lens. About $600 for image quality at least as good as your Nikon.

Each manufacturer makes 100's of different printers. There is more cost variability across printer models than there is by manufacturer. So to compare costs, you will need to look at specific printer models. You can google around but I don't think you'll find much useful information.

Red River Paper has done their own tests on several Epson and Canon printers. Their cost for JUST the ink ranges from 13 to 34 cents for a 6x4 print. Your costs will probably be higher since most printers waste ink every time you turn them off and back on. You also have to add in the cost of the paper and some fraction of the printer cost based on how many lifetime prints you think you'll get.

http://www.redrivercatalog.com/cost-of-inkjet-printing.html

Bottom line: If print cost is a major factor, don't do your own printing. You'll save money by using a local discounter like Walgreens or Costco.