I carry a Lumix ZS40 in my shirt pockets with a tripod pad attached. I only wear Dickies work shirts which have pretty standard size pockets. It has a 24-720 mm equivalent Leica designed zoom, auto and full manual control, 18 Mpx and a host of other features. It is an older model but still available. The next newer model in the lineup doesn't compare well but the model after that is very good.
An Argus C3, stainless steel tank and reels, a brick of Tri-x, changing bag and other paraphernalia to develop and contact print B&W. She can use the changing bag to load the reels and contact print in the bathroom. Probably less than a $100. After she has burned the brick she'll be ready for a digital P&S.
I've used similar maps to create a MyGoogleMap of both waterfalls and lighthouses. Nice reference for trip planning.
My Logitech Marble Mouse driver is incompatible so until I upgrade it I only have a one button mouse,
sergio wrote:
I am amazed to see 200 or 300mm recommended. 150-600 would be my minimum.
Having shot sports professionally for two decades I mostly agree with the 200-300mm range. A 600mm lens is difficult when tracking fast moving action, difficult to handle and heavy. If a person is asking this question they probably lack the skills to use it. My normal kit contains a 28-70mm & an 80-200mm both ƒ2.8 on an aps sensor. I made plenty of money, won awards and had my images used in print and other media.
Addressing the "mostly" part my 26-70 works very well for indoor sports like volleyball or basketball, especially when I needed to zone focus.
I use Google Maps + LightTrak + online databases to plan LightHouse shoots.
I'm a Capt Beefheart and Ry Cooder fan as well so I probably knew that since I am in the habit of reading liner notes albeit in an enhanced state of mind. I've sold most of my vinyl for gas money but I still have The Edward.
That 50mm ƒ1.4 is an excellent lens. Time spent mastering it is time well spent.
I always use Helix when it was in Chicago, a train ride then a taxi to get there. Now they are in Itasca and I have no clue how to get there. A local pro may know a good place.
I use a Vanson Speedy Box which automatically conditions my batteries based on whether they are NiCad or NiMH, switch chosen, no mixing. It works well for NiMH but I never use NiCad. A little pricey but I think worth the price. I think it has been replaced by a newer model.
So useful and inexpensive I'v got one in everyone of my 5 kits.
I take a lot of family and group pictures. I create a key for each in Photoshop and include it with the CD in a folio for the group or family along with a copyright waiver. That way future generations can look at the pictures and know who is who and even print them if they like.
I've given my children access to my Lightroom which currently holds about 60% of my images, mostly tagged. I Store all my personal images on CDs which they will also get.
I bought a 10 pack of QPcards about 15 years ago and still have 5 left. Each card is about 1.5" by 5.5 " and has white, black and grey sections as well as a scale for macro work. They fit easily into your pocket or bag so you always have them. The three colors correspond to the three droppers in Photoshop's Level command so good color balance is just 3 clicks away.
Buy them here
http://amzn.to/2kUxFzu
The Photographic Experience: Awakening Vision Through Conscious Camerawork.
The Innerspace Project.
Both by Jeff Berner, both out of print but available. Both books deal with expanding your self awareness as a method of seeing. After reading the Innerspace Project The Photographic Experience seems a bit redundant but it is more available and less expensive.
Interesting how he failed to mention the expense of buying new Windows software.