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Mar 23, 2018 11:14:30   #
I think you should rather look at some 100-400 lens than a 70-300. Or even a 150-600. There are good options in that range. You already have everything coverd to 105 mm. And at the other end if you have the option to find a 20 mm prime lens it would be a good option for the landscapes. This lens here or something similar http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1393490-REG/sigma_20mm_f_1_4_dg_hsm.html
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Mar 23, 2018 10:25:13   #
DaveyDitzer wrote:
As a service to UHH members, I would like to collect responses from UHH members on their experience with non OEM batteries. I will collect the data and publish the results at the end of this thread in a day or so. Please respond with only these data: Brand of camera; brand of battery and experience - positive or negative. This might help members decide on what approach they should try. Please do not respond if you have only used OEM batteries for your camers(s). Thank you.


EXpro 2150 mAh, replacement for Nikon EN-EL23. Just as good as the Nikon battery. Use it in Nikon P900.
No name bought on Ebay, label white and blue, Fits SONY NP-FW50. 1500 mAh. Somewhat less capacity than original Sony (ca. 70-80% of the original). Use it in Sony A7r. Works well.
Hahnel HL-EL20 880 mAh for Nikon. Use it in Nikon 1J2. Almost as good as the original Nikon battery. (ca. 95% of the original battery capacity)

All those bought dirt cheap (less than $10 pr. pcs) on Ebay 3-4 years ago.
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Mar 22, 2018 12:23:44   #
will47 wrote:
A while back while out driving around I noticed an unusual house with an unusual color scheme, took a photo, a posted it on Flickr. Today when viewing flickr I was notified that my photo was being used by a company called Schemecolor (schemecolor.com). No one asked me to use this photo. I don't consider this to be a big deal, but....I was just wondering if something like this would be a copyrite issue? Thanks.


Well. They (Schemecolor) say that all the pics they are using are posted by their members. So if they have your pic there without permission they are both lying and stealing. You should do something about it.
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Mar 22, 2018 11:50:47   #
John Howard wrote:
For the land/city/water scape shooters out there I have a question. With my Zeiss Batis lenses that show the depth of focus I don't have this issue. But increasingly, I am seeing high quality lenses that have no DoF scale and/or minimal distance scales. So what is your process to get both your foreground element and the distant mountains in focus?

I can use an app to get the hyperlocal distance, thus keeping the infinity distant mountains in focus, and read from the app the near side of the DoF. So suppose, the app says focus at 20 yards? Do you guesstimate the 20 yards? Do you use a laser gun to find something that is 20 yards and then AF that point? If you know the hyperfocal point, do you enlarge and manually focus to that point? With a camera that has focus peaking (ie, the sony mirrorless or the new Nikon D850) do you rely on the peaking to show the DoF?

This all assumes I am asking about tripod shooting landscapes. Probably, there are many approaches to this issue and I'd like to learn.
Thanks,
JH
For the land/city/water scape shooters out there I... (show quote)


I tend to use lenses with focusing scale. And if not then I generally use f/8 or f/11 for those shots since that is within or around the sweet spot of most lenses. Sometimes I just check the focus in the viewfinder. Since I am mostly using a Sony A7r that is very easy. Then you can see what part of the pictures are in good focus. See bottom left on their webpage.
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Mar 22, 2018 11:35:52   #
Frank G. wrote:
This editorial observation is not directed at any posts on this site, but rather most photography magazines. I have to laugh when I see the technical info about photographs in some magazines. Do I really have to know what model tripod, or Gimbal head was used to hold up the camera that was used to take a picture ? Or is that just pretentious bragging about the photographers expensive equipment ? I also have to wonder about ISO, aperture opening, and shutter speed info.I know you can prioritize or program settings but I'm guessing [of course] that a lot of photographers shooting birds or other unpredictable moving subjects shoot first and look up info later. So it's not like the photographer knew what the camera was shooting at when taking a picture. Like I said this is just my opinion and some might think I don't know what I'm talking about. By the way in addition to my more expensive camera which in keeping with my theme I won't mention I've taken some outstanding photos ,if I do say so myself with a $100 Canon ELF. I used my left hand to hold the camera and my right index finger to click the shutter. Not that you needed to know that technical information.

Hmmm, I wonder what kind of brushes Picasso used.
This editorial observation is not directed at any ... (show quote)


This is marketing, sponsoring etc. People write articles and get some small payment for mentioning the gear.
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Mar 22, 2018 07:16:06   #
Ched49 wrote:
If you don't mind me butting in...what's the difference between a D lens and a Glens?


In relation to the lens in discussion here the D lens is a glass and metal lens. Sturdy and heavy. The G lens is glass and plastic lens. Very light weight and ideal walk around lens as long as you take good care of it. The lens mount is also plastic so be careful not to drop it. I have a 28-80 G lens from this are. Love it and use it a lot.
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Mar 22, 2018 06:04:39   #
drklrd wrote:
I have one but it no longer works with Windows. It uses a scsi card and the new computers do not fit the card. Not to mention the program is on floppy and of course computers no longer have floppy drives. I may have a floppy drive in a closet some place though.


Have you tried to search google or other search engines for instructions about how to use your scanner with the windows version you have? You might get lucky.
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Mar 21, 2018 10:03:29   #
Kiron Kid wrote:
Scott

How about modern day cell phone sensors?


I think modern day sensors are still behind some 5 year old mobile sensors. But the firmware is a lot better. In mobiles the sensors have somewhat stagnated but the firmware has improved a lot.
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Mar 21, 2018 09:52:08   #
drklrd wrote:
How do I copy neg's to digital without expensive gear? Any suggestions? Anyone build a device yet?


In the film days many camera manufacturers made bellows for this kind of use. I have a couple from Konica and Fuji and they still work perfectly. Check Ebay.

Then there are those cheap film scanners that can convert film to 6-12 megapixel images. Some of those are ok.
http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=sr_st_price-asc-rank?keywords=film+scanner&rh=i%3Aaps%2Ck%3Afilm+scanner&qid=1521640484&sort=price-asc-rank

And Lomography makes a device to use with smartphones to digitize film. That also works pretty well.
http://shop.lomography.com/en/smartphone-scanner?country=de
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Mar 21, 2018 09:25:16   #
Ohlarry wrote:
I use a Nikon D7200 and one of the things that often confuses me is when to use the exposure compensation. I love to take pictures of birds and often have to correct them in post processing. As with this type of photos sharpness in the details is important. I realize that exposure compensation is used to prevent some highlights from blowing out but when I am looking at a scene before I take the picture I am never sure if this is a plus or minus situation. I sure could use a little guidance with exposure compensation.
I use a Nikon D7200 and one of the things that oft... (show quote)


If you are photographing a bird against a bright sky it often helps to use exp. compensation. In that case you would use the plus to exposure the bird correctly. If you are using spot metering and the bird is not too small in the frame this is not needed. Then the camera will meter from the bird.

When you use the plus you make your whole picture brighter than what the camera is suggesting. And minus makes it darker.

Here is an article about this subject to help you get started. Lot of info online if you look for it. http://digital-photography-school.com/how-to-use-exposure-compensation-to-take-control-of-your-exposure/
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Mar 20, 2018 20:39:29   #
smeggy wrote:
I was looking at the Nikon Coolpix B700 and would like to convert 60x optical zoom, 120x Dynamic Fine Zoom to mm.
Can anyone do the math? I noticed that it shhos/saves in Raw which I like.
Thanks - smeggy


It is easiest to look this up on the Nikon website since there is no fixed conversion factor for zoom to mm. Nikon says this "4.3-258 mm (angle of view equivalent to that of 24-1440 mm lens in 35mm [135] format)"

So it is 4.3 - 258 mm and the 120x zoom will extend that to 516 mm
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Mar 20, 2018 11:33:16   #
rehess wrote:
How difficult is it to use a M42-mount lens on a Nikon camera??
{Yes, I understand that everything will be manual - I'm interested in the mechanical connection}


I have tried adapting different lenses to different cameras. If you need adapter with glass for infinity focus it is not worth it. If you are adapting to lets say mirrorless camera where you will not need adapter with glass for infinity focus it often gives you excellent results. Bascially the rule is to avoid adapting to dslr and if you want to use old glass and adapters you need a mirrorless camera for that.
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Mar 20, 2018 05:54:09   #
mia.jayy wrote:
Hello everyone! I am new to the forum, though I was recommended this page to get any help I may need. I am a high school student taking a photography class, so I obviously don't know as much as you. It would be great to get answers!! Haha.

Long story short, when I take pictures, I get either glowing, or faint circles in my photographs. This happens with my Canon digital camera (pretty sure it is a 35mm), and my small (and old) Nikon camera (I have to check, but I think it is 16mm). This is not water on the lens, fingerprints, or anything on the glass. I don't know what this is...

Also, the photo that I posted was NOT taken with flash... So this is not flash photography. They dont appear in every picture, and only sometimes. THIS IS NOT MY PHOTOGRAPH, because the photos I had wouldn't upload to my computer... But these circles are the same as the ones in my photos. I will see if I can get my original photos up soon.
Thanks for listening and hopefully answering me!!

-Mia
Hello everyone! I am new to the forum, though I wa... (show quote)


If you upload one of your pictures, please check the "store original" button so we can inspect camera settings. That will help trying to figure this out. Also post a picture from the same camera where the spots do not show for comparison.
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Mar 19, 2018 18:47:08   #
This here looks exactly the same. Does this spot problem happen only when you use flash?

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Orb_(optics)
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Mar 19, 2018 15:31:13   #
BebuLamar wrote:
It's easier to learn the manual procedures than to learn all the automatic procedures but I have seen so many who have only used the automatic procedures having a hard time learning how to do it manually. People who started with manual don't have problem learning the automatic procedures.


Yes, I know. The real problem arises when people start at the wrong end.
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